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I just got a 455 AWS with 60" deck and 3pt and rear pto. Bought it with a pto engagement issue I thought, no problem I can fix it, wrong, after purchasing a new switch through Deere the issue is still not fixed. I can engage the mower deck now by pushing down on the pto front or rear selection lever, however the pto switch does nothing. When the selection lever is in the rear position the pto switch engages and disengages the rear pto.
So how do I get the front pto to engage with the switch not the selection lever?}
 

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What year is the machine ? 99 and newer have a RIO (reverse in operation) switch that could be part of your problem . If you got the correct pto switch according to serial # , it will either be a simple push / pull for pre 99 , or a pull / pull / push for 99 and up with serial # above 70000 .
The RIO switch is located inside the right rear frame rail just ahead of the axle. Gotta get up under the machine to access the switch . My 99 455 RIO switch trigger lever was bent when I first got it , and would not let the PTO engage until you put your foot 1/3 the way down on the forward motion control pedal . I simply bent it back to where the machine didn't think it was in reverse most of the time .

All this depends on your year / model / serial #.

Hope that helps ; Dave
 

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Go to the solenoid for the mid pto (front) It is on the transaxle . Check voltage . But wait .., FIRST check the brake switch located under your left floor pan . Thats right , left floor pan .., I know , the brake is on the right , but the switch is on the left . The tractor will not let the pto turn on if it thinks the brake is on . Your switch may be bad here , or corroded connections , bad wires ,etc..,or no power at all . So check fuses and the fuse holders . They are notorious for getting a little oxidation on the spades , and not getting good contact to the fuse holders . Wiggle them around a little bit to ensure good contact.

The point here is to check every conceivable electrical connection as a suspect first , and eliminate the stuff that don't cost an arm and a leg , before you even think about digging into the wallet , throwing money at it . You've already had a little taste of that with the purchase of the switch , Right ?

On second reading of your post.., I now realize the confusing nature of the mix between front - rear pto engagement via the 3 position lever on the rear pto , and must admit that I am perplexed with the logic involved . I have read the instruction manual that I got when I purchased mine but have not installed it yet . I did not fully get the test proceedure that they want you to go through afterwards to be sure all is working as it should . Mayhaps I'll read again and see if I can get it to register . Wiil get back at cha'

Don't know what else to say but - good luck , and keep us posted with you results / findings .

Dave

Dave
 

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Yep, it's stuck....really, really stuck.
Anyone else had this problem and found a solution?

Have banged at it with a long rod passed all the way thru both wheels(only way to get a good swing on it) against the back of the weight.

Tried chipping/grinding away at the edge thinking(hoping) it was bound there...but no go, have chiseled and pried.

Made a puller of sorts as there are nuts on the allrod on the back side of the weight, but think I was just pulling said nuts into the clearance holes.

Next step I'm thinking is to just start cutting away(metal cutoff wheel in angle grinder) the *stuff*(looks like concrete, but is magnetic - drills easily with a mortar bit until you hit a larger piece of metal and break the bit tip) that comprises the filling until I can get enough out to relieve where ever it's binding.

Sure wish I hadn't sold the cast weights I had before.

 

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It's pretty obvious the weight will never be the same (I hate those kind). Not sure I'd keep hitting it with a rod & big hammer . You may damage something . You probably WOULD be better off to piece it out a chunk at a time .

They do sell masonary wheels for angle grinders . You might give one a try . Good luck !
 

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It might be concrete with lots of metal 'dust' in it and an occasional larger piece of metal, like the one that destroyed my mortar bit. I'm not going to trash a $20 diamond stone/concrete blade on it tho...tomorrow I hit it with the metal cutoff blade.

The other weight I have, that thankfully didn't get stuck, is filled with chunks of metal held together with who knows what:



I'm surprised no one else had any input on this....maybe everyone's out getting some seat time.
 

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I'm just curious how they got it in there in the first place.
Good luck getting it out. Hope you don't wreck the tire and rim.
Dom
 

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do you have an air chisel? I think mine was $20 at walmart.

the other option is you can get fiber masonry blades in 4" or skil-saw sized, that are just like the metal cut off blades, pretty cheap at a hardware store, they are less them $5, and do surprisingly well, I used 1 blade to cut two groves in my asphalt driveway for a underground dog fence.

Good luck
 

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Oh, boy...I looked at that pic and read the account of your adventure, and felt genuinely sorry for you, Anne...I'm guessing a bunch of cutting and/or chiseling is in your future, as I'm sure the expansion of that mess has it stuck to the point that only having the weight oriented so it drops out vertically after a serious deceleration is going to work. If you have a nice long piece of angle iron, you might try cutting a slot across the diameter of the weight, fit the angle into it, wedge the mess up against something, and either use elbow grease or the engine's power to "screw" it loose - or smash your head in with flying steel. Be careful, and don't breathe whatever dust comes off that radioactive slag...
 

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seat time............??

Getting ready for winter my friend. Cutting the last of the fire wood. caulking around flashing. Patching lose roof shingles. Scrubbing the flue pipe/cleaning the wood stove. Replace the furnace filter. Even cleaned the down spouts.

Painting a snow thrower.
 

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Been thinking about this...think I will try to cut it right in half with 2 cuts to form a wedge as deep as I can from bolt hole to bolt hole, might relieve the tension, we'll see.

when I will be able try that, I have no idea...yesterday was all day chicken flock drama, today was dedicated to finding out why the house drain backed up <rolleyes> and digging out the pipe, tomorrow is having a clean out put in between house and tank and hoping to heck that they can clear the blockage, thinks it roots....

Thanks for the commiseration and the tip on the fiber wheel...angle iron, hmmmmm, Yikes!...I do have a parts tractor, so if I foul up the wheel, I've got two extras! But I'll have to cobble another weight, concrete maybe.
 

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Anne,
Take it easy out there digging up the pipe. It is really humid in this area and your only an hour or so North West from here. Just back from my afternoon walk and I am almost soaked. I hope you aren't digging up clay pipe in which it probably is roots.
 

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Thanks Kevin...that was a miserably hot humid day, but it was in the shade and easy digging and saved me some plumber bucks. Luckily the pipe was just clogged with roots just inside the tank and it came free pretty easy. Had a cleanout installed right there so it's good to go now.

Now that that and a couple other issues are resolved I finally got back to the wheel weight problem this morning.

Ate up a couple cut off wheels, reapplied the 'puller'....no go.....then just started pounding on it with a 5 lb fist maul, which showed some progress and relieved some stress haha.... so kept at it until it finally came loose with the puller. No damage to wheel or tire...one dinged knuckle.

Now I need another set of wheel weights before winter, sure wish I hadn't sold the old cast iron ones, one of the dumbest things I ever did.

Phase Two: Rebuild Variator.





 

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Anne , glad you got the miserable thing off . I'm STILL curious what they put in those things . Kind of looks like what comes out of one of those recycling shredders . The grey stuff looks like a clay material . Not sure .

As far as the wheel weights go , you sound like you're beating yourself up , so I'll give you advice you didn't ask for .

According to the laws of physics , weight placed BEHIND the rear axle (as in a weight box ) will have an increased effect on traction than weight directly ON it . You can also use MUCH MORE weight . I put about 200-225# of steel in my weight box & my 112 has great traction & is ALMOST impossible to "get stuck " . AND.....200# of sand/concrete/scrap iron is MUCH cheaper than a 100# set of cast iron w/weights . Throwing weight into a mounted box is also less stressful than mounting wheel weights . Again , you didn't ask , but the only advantage that "I" see to w/weights would be if you use rear attachments . JMO
 

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Dave, that's good idea. I'd thought about suitcase weights but the box sounds easier and cheaper.

Did you build or buy your box, what material is it made out of, any pics?
Will now search that concept out.
 

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home depot and lowes were selling suitcase weights with free shipping

I choose this route since it easier to remove

of course the next month a guy at work was getting rid of his bench weights
 
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