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1990 (I think) JD 332
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
There seems to be a lot of issues with the 332 charging system (mine also has issues) Has anyone successfully swapped the OEM alternator and Reg/Rec to a single wire internally regulated alternator? I know there doesn't appear to be much room but there are some very small alternators out there at 35-50 amps of which would be plenty. I just got my 332 a few weeks ago and haven't looked into it but it would be a great solution.
 

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I have never seen any posts here on doing that type of alternator conversion, but it is intriguing. Just remember tht the Deere OEM regulator also supports the charge indicator on the dash as described here...
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Chuck
 

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1990 (I think) JD 332
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have never seen any posts here on doing that type of alternator conversion, but it is intriguing. Just remember tht the Deere OEM regulator also supports the charge indicator on the dash as described here...
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Chuck
I think that could be utilized as most cars also have a charge light. If not I think it would be a good trade off for the reliability of the internal type alternator. Most of the 332 charge issues is not actually not charging but over charging of which the light wouldn't help anyways.
 

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I years ago on a Tecumseh 112 with a burnt out charging system I adapted a GM 65 amp one wire alternator to the engine and used that until I sold it. JD parts for the repair was $200+ and the GM alternator was free from neighbor. I did have the price of of a drive belt and the time of making the mounts invested. I also added a 120 volt rectifier to the tractor which gave a 120 volt AC source for out in the yard. Roger
 

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1990 (I think) JD 332
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Now that I would like to hear about. The alternator could be mounted between the frame rails and run off the rear shaft of the pump if need be.
 

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I wanted to do the same thing for my 332. I bought a internal reg nippon Denso alternator that was originally for a 430. It turns out it’s just a tad too large and hits the exhaust manifold/muffler. If you overcome the clearance issue, I think the wiring aspect could be sorted. I bet the 430 wiring would give clues about how to do it. If I ever turbo my 332, the larger alternator would definitely fit. I have seen posts where guys run a car alternator off the rear pto stub shaft, so that is a possibility.
 

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Kris,

The 430 used either a 35 or a 40 amp alternator (depending on year) but these also were AC output and were set up with a separate rectifier/regulator just like the 322/330/332 Yanmars. However, they were a similar physical size to the single wire units being discussed here. So the 430 could 'absorb' a single wire alternator from a mounting point of view, but does not address the charge light issues. As mentioned earlier in this thread, that light may not be a big issue for some members here that are struggling with overcharge and other electrical issues from the factory components.

Chuck
 

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1990 (I think) JD 332
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I wanted to do the same thing for my 332. I bought a internal reg nippon Denso alternator that was originally for a 430. It turns out it’s just a tad too large and hits the exhaust manifold/muffler. If you overcome the clearance issue, I think the wiring aspect could be sorted. I bet the 430 wiring would give clues about how to do it. If I ever turbo my 332, the larger alternator would definitely fit. I have seen posts where guys run a car alternator off the rear pto stub shaft, so that is a possibility.
Perhaps a smaller one. There are several much smaller than the nippo unit. The wiring would be easy. Some are one wire some three. They will activate the light as they are internally designed to do that. Also as mentioned between the frame rails and run off the rear shaft is possible. Doesn’t matter where it is as long as it is turned
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Kris,

The 430 used either a 35 or a 40 amp alternator (depending on year) but these also were AC output and were set up with a separate rectifier/regulator just like the 322/330/332 Yanmars. However, they were a similar physical size to the single wire units being discussed here. So the 430 could 'absorb' a single wire alternator from a mounting point of view, but does not address the charge light issues. As mentioned earlier in this thread, that light may not be a big issue for some members here that are struggling with overcharge and other electrical issues from the factory components.

Chuck
Alternators will activate the light. There is a built in diode that closes the circuit when below 12.5 volts and completes the light circuit.
 

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430 used either a 35 or a 40 amp alternator (depending on year) but these also were AC output and were set up with a separate rectifier/regulator just like the 322/330/332 Yanmars
@chuckv thanks for keeping it straight. It must have been a 455 single wire alternator then. I am pretty sure user @mikeduwe has a single wire alternator on his 332, but it is boosted so there’s no clearance issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
@chuckv thanks for keeping it straight. It must have been a 455 single wire alternator then. I am pretty sure user @mikeduwe has a single wire alternator on his 332, but it is boosted so there’s no clearance issue.
I would like to know what he used and how he fabricated the mount. What do you mean by “it’s boosted”
 

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I would like to know what he used and how he fabricated the mount. What do you mean by “it’s boosted”
Send him a PM or he may get a notification from me name dropping him in this thread. The 455 should bolt right up to where the 332 stock “alternator “ is. It’s just that the single wire int reg version is too deep and hits the exhaust. Since his tractor is boosted (turbocharged), it uses a different exhaust manifold that clears the larger alternator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ahhh. Ok. I didn’t get the boosted part. That also sounds interesting. Not sure I would do it but sounds interesting
 

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Alternators will activate the light. There is a built in diode that closes the circuit when below 12.5 volts and completes the light circuit.
If memory serves me correctly, on a 332 the light comes on when the a/c voltage drops below a certain point, not d/c
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The light is activated from the rectifier. Most likely DC. But doesn’t matter really. The bulb is DC so at the end of the day it wouldn’t make any difference if it is based on low AC or low DC. If it’s not charging it’s not charging. How the light gets turned on doesn’t make a difference to me as long as it gets turned on. All cars have a charge light. Works the same as the tractor.
 

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Less than 12.3 DCV turns on low battery light. Light will remain on until charging voltage is 12.7 DCV. This voltage is monitored by the TDCM comparing voltage coming from fuse and voltage going to battery. Bob
 

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Looked at a 430 on jdparts.com. Looks like tractors with serial #030104 and up have the internal regulator style alternator. PN ST554534 is the one. They’re on eBay/Amazon too.

The 455 was available with both styles (external and internal) of alternator. I remember a thread where it was documented how to upgrade to the int reg. He solved the charging light issue. I do not know if it would apply to a 332, but here it is.
 

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Bob,

The TDCM does monitor the charge voltage on the Onan powered tractors with the very simple three pin regulators, but on the Yanmar engines the regulator/rectifier assembly is much more complex and it is what drives the discharge lamp directly. If you decommission the original regulator and remove it from the harness, there is NO CONNECTION to the dash lamp to indicate charge voltage.

It might be instructive when using a single wire alternator to leave the factory regulator in place and just connect the ground, the #530 green voltage sense wire and the #610 brown wire to the lamp to see if that is sufficient to monitor the charge voltage in the system.

I have put together the little sketch below to illustrate...
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Chuck
 
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