Weekend Freedom Machines banner

Tail Light Wiring

1832 Views 27 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  aartwmich
Hello! How do you all access the battery on your Xseries tractors for trickle charging the battery? I had a heck of a time trying to figure it out this past weekend. It started fine, so it wasn't needed, but I don't want to have to start it over the winter to maintain charge. There had to have been a better place to mount the batter!!

1 - 20 of 28 Posts
On my 455, I use (and would recommend) a desulphating trickle charger - mine is made by BatteryMinder, but there may be others. Mine comes with a set of leads that you connect to the battery, terminating in a plug, which you lead out through any convenient gap in the bodywork. You then simply connect the charger to the plug, and plug the charger into the wall - it couldn't be simpler.

I wouldn't bother with trickle chargers. I bought the current battery in my 214 from Walmart in 2005 and because it is not my primary tractor anymore it will often sit for weeks at a time, We had light snow last week so i decided to use the 214 with the blade instead of the 345 and blower. First start in almost 3 months and it started right up. Roger
Remove the hood. The rollers snap out at the top of the track when the hood is all the way open. One wire to disconnect for the lights. Battery is Under the muffler in the front. Covered with a plastic and bungie.
Thanks for the input. I never thought to take the hood off.
I agree with you, Tim. I own nine of those Battery MINDer(tm) chargers, seven 12117's and two 12248's. I use them exclusively on all my vehicles and equipment.

Do they work? Yep...I recently replaced the two Delco 78DT-7yr's in my '82 GMC 6.2L diesel pickup after only 11 years of infrequent use. They were still good, truck starts fine, every time. I only replaced them because my wife was going to use the truck to move some friends, lots of stops & starts, I can't see taking a chance after 11 years. I only drive it about 1000 miles a year, so it sits in an unheated machine shed most of it's life. Battery date code was 12-01, I even found the original purchase invoice. The price went up slightly and "nope, they wouldn't warranty them".........(-:

This pattern is duplicated on most of my stuff, the batteries last way, way beyond the normal lifespan since I started using the chargers. I even get many more years out of the the small U1's than I experienced before I bought them. They're a great choice, I highly recommend them.
See less See more
Hey guys. I've done some research on battery tender brand trickle chargers. My neighbor has his three harley's all hooked to a different brand. Each bike has its own charger. He swears by them and claims that he will never buy another battery in his life time.

Now for the negative stories. A local plumbing shop had there trencher hooked to a battery tender brand and it boiled the battery dry. I heard the same story from the owner of the local harley dealership, He had a battery tender on his porche and it to boiled the battery dry.

I bought two battery tenders, one for my 318 and the other for my X720. After hearing the horror stories I came up with a plan and it seems to be working well. What I do is once a month (or when I remember) I plug in the 318, after a few hours or over night it is locked in. Meaning that its not charging, its got a solid green light (not a flashing green light)this means that the tender is sitting idle and not charging. So I then un-plug the 318 and plug the same charger into the X720. I repeat that process with my 4wheeler, boat, truck that is only used once in a while, and my winch battery.

What I mean by plug in, is on the 318, X720, and 4wheeler I have the pig tails that bolt directly to the battery terminals. Like TimS stated, I have the plug coming out of the body work in a nice discrete location. I only do this routine through the winter months.
See less See more
I must just be getting lazy here...tried searching for Tail Light Wiring and came up empty, so thought I'd start a thread.
Maybe I'm searching wrong or in the wrong place, if so, my apologies.

So how do you wire in tail lights on a 216? Is there a diagram?
I spliced the wire coming out of the headlight switch and ran a wire back to the tail lights. Then I just ground the lights to the fender deck. If they don't work just check to make sure that the fender deck is grounded to the frame and the frame is grounded to the battery. I did this on my 214 and it worked great. Hope this helps.
There is a yellow wire under the fender pan for the optional rear harness (it ends near the left side of the gear shift opening) . I don't think you can find it without taking the fender pan off so it may be easier to run another wire back like Ryan did.
I did the same 'head light wire splice' as Ryan in my 212. There was an extra 'yellow wire' circuit near headlights switch, but, I used it for Hour meter.

If you use extra circuit for tail lights, you will need to add a separate switch. If you splice it into head light wire, the same switch will suffice.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Didn't have the extra yellow wire anywhere so did a splice. Had no clue how to do this, very little wiring experience here, so hardware store guy assisted. Thought I'd post all this in case someone else looking to add tail lights is as clueless as I.

Used these to tie into headlight wire and tie tail lights together. Tail lights are grounded at screw mounts, ground paint off at light/pan and pan/frame.

Ran wire back with the seat safety switch, added quick coupler so pan can be removed if necessary.

Let there be lights!! Will be nice to have some light in back moving snow in the dark, plus I live on a 55 mph road that can get busy so a bit more visibility.
See less See more
Yay... congrats. The JD reflector cost me $11 at my local dealer and took 2 weeks. Meanwhile one day I was roaming auto aisles in Walmart and found exact size LED tail lamp (it was being sold as 'marker lamps') for $7 each! It perfectly fit the 212 and ended up picking up the reflector from dealer which came a week later! LOL. Here is what how it turned out for me too.

See less See more
I used a 'shark tubing' (home depot plumbing section) from under dash to the back beneath the tub and ran 2 wires - Green for LED tail lamps & Yellow for add on rear light to come later. Finally installed the real light 2 weeks ago. Here are pictures of both.

See less See more
The tap splice connectors corrode up quick if not protected from moisture, replaced lots of those on trailers, ever wonder why trailer lights never work right? those things are part of the reason.
True, best to heat sink/wrap up in electric tape.
Well, I didn't get any specific product suggestions when I first posted...I'll just wrap in elec tape and hope for the best...and redo it when it fails, or not.
The taps should be coated in dielectric grease, available at any auto parts or even the Ace hardware, then wrap up in electrical tape, that will protect them from the elements, looks like a nice tidy wiring job, and lots of light to make the snow removal a safer job.
Dielectric grease crossed my mind..... after the fact.
Too little, too late.....will know better next time.
What did you use for lights, those things are bright! that's what I need, my 318 needs to be that bright, are they LED?
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.