[glacierrunner]

Where can I get the seven inch curved tail pipe that is welded on the 332 muffler? The muffler is fine but the curved area on the tail pipe is rusted out. It is 1 1/4 inch pipe and all the local muffler shops have is 1 1/2 pipe and can not bend the smaller size pipe! Thanks, Don

 

[steveh]

The tail pipe on my 332 muffler was badly damaged when I first got it. I used 1 3/4" pipe scraps from the local muffler shop and simply cut off the old tailpipe and welded the new pipe to the muffler housing. It kind of evolved from that to the stack you see in the photo.

 

[littledeere]

Is that one of the tractors your going to take to Little G Steve

Looking good

 

[littledeere]

Don try some auto parts stores ask to look in the back at what they stock sometimes you can get lucky and find something pre-bent you can cut to fit.

 

[Jdodad1]

Don,

Here....http://www.magnumforceracing.com/ubend.asp

 

[dg330]

Mine is rusted out too. It sounds like a 671 detroit. Thanks for the link Jim

 

[glacierrunner]

Jim according to my measurement I need to order the 1 3/8 dia with a 2 1/2 inch radius to get the right bend and close dia for my 332 muffler. Does that look right to you? Thanks for the Link, Don

 

[Jdodad1]

Don,

I can't help you there, do not have a 332, so don't know how they measure out.

 

[yotatruck]

(I posted this on the open forum but probably should have put it here instead-mods feel free to delete my other thread)

I have an LX170 which is a great little tractor, but I do work it pretty hard and would like to upgrade from the Peerless 801 transaxle. I primarily use it to pull heavy cartloads of firewood around the yard but I would also like to start plowing snow with it as well. From what I've seen the 801s don't hold up well to this kind of use. Plus, the 820 would allow to mount larger wheels which I can fill with liquid ballast in addition to a 100lb weight box on the rear. Right now I'm having traction problems hauling wood through snow (I have v-bar chains on the 18" turf tires) with just myself as weight for the rearend. My questions are as follows:

-How hard are used 820s to find? It seems like Murray used them a lot-any others? Do most racers just buy new/rebuilt units?

-I'd like to run 24" tires-since the ratios are the same as my 801, how large of a pulley would I need on the 820 to keep my final drive the same (was running 18" tires stock) or maybe slightly taller? The 14HP Kawasaki isn't bad, but I'd like to swap out for a larger motor eventually.

-How are the brakes on the 820? The brakes on my 801 are pretty much non-existent, but I haven't really gotten into it to figure out why. Are there any braking upgrades available for racing applications? Being able to pull a heavy load is great but being able to stop it would be nice too

 

[mikeduwe]

Any reason why you wouldnt buy a square fender 110/112? Way beefier and probably cost the same as upgrading your lawn tractor?

The brakes are wimpy and tiny on these trans, the racing mower guys run gokart axles and hydraulic brakes.

Sounds like you should hop on heymow.com if you want to look at hop up mods for the tranny.

 

[mikeduwe]

PS, I got about 3/4 of the way through building this and ended up selling it...

 

[yotatruck]

I actually had a square fender 110 about five years ago that was kind of a basket case (no body, bad seat, rats nest wiring, etc...) but it did run and drive. I ended up selling it for $250. You can't touch them in decent shape around here for less than $500. The LX170 I got for free from my father-in-law. I didn't need the mowing deck and I sold it for $150-so technically I'm ahead of the game

I like the looks of the 170 and I think it will look really good with a proper set of tires (24" Chevrons in the rear-18" turfs in the front). I called up a buddy who thinks he might have an 820 in an old 21HP Murray he's got sitting behind his house. He's going to check it for me tomorrow. Says I can have the transmission for nothing if I want it.

I do see your point about brakes-the heavier this thing gets (weight box/filled tires/etc...) the more important stopping it becomes. I have seen some neat solutions on Heymow for beefing up transaxle brakes. The way I see it if I can get a free 820 transaxle that's more than half the battle. Any other modifications I make from there would be stuff I would do to a 110 if I bought one anyway.

 

[T-Mo]

Deere didn't make a LX170, they made a 170, a LX172, LX173, LX176, and a LX178, and they made a LT170, but no LX170.

 

[yotatruck]

Terry-you are correct, it's just a "170" I had seen LX170 somewhere and assumed that was it. Here it is shown with mowing deck:

http://www.tractordata.com/lawn-tractors/000/0/1/16-john-deere-170.html

As an update I called up a friend who has a bunch of dead tractors laying around and he thinks he might have a '90s Murray with an 820 and that I can have it for free if it's the right one.

Also, someone over on Heymow directed me to a pretty simple bolt-on disk brake kit that would be a huge improvement on any of these tractors with transaxle integrated brakes.