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That is kinda what I was thinking
Maybe you could get an rv style box and mount it at the rear for extra ballast and it would be out of you way.
Like this:
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Discussion Starter · #22 · (Edited)
Can you raise/relocate the battery? On my BMW's they stuck the battery in the trunk, all it takes is longer cables.
No where else to put it. This tractor is pretty well packed to the gils everywhere.

Relocating the battery is a thought, but I don’t really want the battery hanging out off the back, or anywhere else for that matter. If I could sneak it under the rear fender somewhere that would work, but all that real estate is occupied by either the transaxle bits, the fuel tank and/or the hydraulic tank. Its just packed tight everywhere.

the rear of the tractor is occupied by the 3 bag mcs in summer and suitcase weights in the winter, so no available space there. Not to mention, I might end up building a rear 3pt for it later on.

Looking at the way the hood slopes down, I don’t think I’d be able to raise the battery up enough to make any real difference.
 

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That is really a pretty good idea with the rear ballast since we are all trying to do that sooner or later.
 

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Not exactly sure what you are refering to unless you mean the point on the transaxle that sends power to the front pto via a drive shaft.
Thats not available for use as it carries the pto shaft to run the front pto and snowblower in winter and drives the mower deck in summer.
there is no rear pro on this transaxle. Wasn’t ordered with it and I don’t particularly want to spend around 1500 bucks to install one.
I think I’m stuck using the factory hydraulics until I can figure something out. Until then, I guess I’ll just have to work within the capabilities of the oem hudraulics.
Yes that’s the mid PTO, would/could work unless your loader can/will be on along with the mower deck.
 

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Your fabrication skills appear top notch, so one approach would be to mount a separate pump underneath the tractor, running off the mid-PTO. You could also get the front PTO shaft and run it off that, but then the pump would be out in front, and possibly in the way or susceptible to damage. In either case, this will mean the plumbing will be entirely separate from the tractor, so you'll need controls and a fluid reservoir. The reservoir may be the most challenging piece of this approach - I'm no expert, but I'd imagine you'll need at least a gallon of fluid, maybe two.

All that complexity leads me back to recommending simply running off the tractor's existing hydraulics, and skip worries about controls and a reservoir. Since you're building it yourself, you can size the cylinders and modify the loader geometry to balance lift height, weight capacity, and lifting speed. As the owner of a 455 with a 40 loader, modified with larger lift cylinders, I can tell you that you really shouldn't be trying to lift more than 3 - 400 pounds tops. I'm sure people have lifted more, but at some point, you just need a bigger tractor and it's better to be safe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Yes that’s the mid PTO, would/could work unless your loader can/will be on along with the mower deck.
Well, the way I want it designed is that I can easily/ quickly swap implements. Mounting a pump to either pto means I’d have to crawl under and unbolt things before installing the drive over deck or quick hitch to the snowblower.

I may mow in the morning and then do some loader work in the afternoon. Have an hour change over from one to the other is not really what I’m going for.

As mentioned, I’ll likely have to settle for using the oem hydraulics at firstand take lots of time to cone up with an aux hydraulics that works with everything else already on the tractor.

I’m going to focus on building the hard parts for now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Thought I’d take a shot at seeing if the battery could be raised enough to fit a pump and drive under it.

Took the battery out and made a cardboard box the size of the battery. Tried placing it in various spots and unfortunately, there no way to get it under the “hood” and have enough room for a pump and lovejoy drive.

It could be “made” to fit if I wanted to cut pieces out of the grill, but thats not an option I would pursue. Its gotta look like it could have been built from the oem that way or its a no-go for me.

It was a good idea but just didn’t pan out.

The flywheel also makes it a major pain to get any type of mounting bracket for the pump bolted to the block.

The search continues…..
 

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Have you investigated a different (smaller) size battery?
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Have you investigated a different (smaller) size battery?
I’m going over the tractor with a fine toothed comb looking for places to relocate the battery because where the battery is now is pretty much the ideal spot for an aux pump. Got a couple ideas, not sure if they’ll pan out or not.

Don’t really want to go to a smaller battery. That little 3 cyl diesel starter needs all the grunt it can get to whip over those high compression cylinders.

One thing I did find about the battery mounting that I didn’t like: the battery hold down is rubber, but the back and bottom of the battery is resting right on the metal frame. Not good for battery life, more so with an idi diesel rattling everything around. So I cut a couple rubber pads to size and now the battery at least has some isolation from the vibration. Outside of overcharging, nothing kills a lead acid battery quicker than vibration…
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
So, I have an idea. This is the flywheel/battery area:

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First thought/suggestion was to raise the battery and mount the pump underneath it. The slope and shape of the hood along with things like the air filter housing, fuel filter, etc killed that idea. Battery is too big and boxy to fit in the available space mounted higher.

But…..

What about mounting the pump over the battery?

I’d have to mount a pulley to the flywheel center (easy enough) and then a belt to a higher pulley. I’d stick with a 1:1 ratio for those. Then, a mount to hold the upper pulley, lovejoy and pump.

possible issues:

pump will likely be higher than the aux hyd tank, which coukd lead to possible cavitation.

pump bracket will need to be quite robust to deal with the weight of the pump and vibration from the diesel.

thats pretty much the “cons” as I see them right now. Have to stee on it a bit more.

But it would mean I can slip an H3 valve back by the seat and have two circuits for the loader and one circuit for a rear sleeve or 3 pt hitch. I may even go to a 1 or two lever system, just to make it neat and tidy as well as fit in the oem cup holder location.

Tank I’ll just fab up from some 1/4” aluminum sheet, so that can can be tailored to go wherever it fits.

Getting the battery out will still be relatively easy. The hold down strap goes around the front of the battery and you remove the battery straight out the front.

Hmmm, now I’m thinking about if I can get enough room around the pump to mount a reservoir. That would mean the pump would at least be gravity fed to its inlet. Need to explore that idea a bit more.

It all needs more thought, but it might be a way to go to install an aux pump…..
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
So, it seems I might have a couple options for pump mounting.

high:

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Pro: easy to mount, lots of avalable places to bokt to the block.
Con: obviously, that close to the muffler is an issue. May be able to mitigate with some heat shielding. Fairly long belt run means a tensioner or idler is needed to cut down on belt “whipping”.

lower:

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pro: lots of room, no heat concerns, possibly leaves room for a reservoir about so pump inlet is always submerged.
Cons: going to take some serious braket building to get to mounting points on the block, very short belt run

no matter what, I’m going to have to make an aux aux tank in order to get enough volume in the system to hold 1-2 gallons.

It’s hopeful, but still a lot of hurdles to clear…
 

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A reminder that most pumps aren't rated to handle the load from a belt. Interesting challenge, though. Been there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 · (Edited)
A reminder that most pumps aren't rated to handle the load from a belt. Interesting challenge, though. Been there.
No worries, got it covered.

The belt will drive the lovejoy coupler pulley, which removes any side loading on the pump shaft and the pump keys into the spider by it’s own half of the lovejoy.

Obviously, there will be an intermediate shaft riding in bearings to transfer the drive from the driven pulley to the lovejoy.

I’ve been around this tree before….;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 · (Edited)
Hmmm, just had a thought that I might be able to mount the pump underneath the tractor somewhere as I can just extend the intermediate/driven shaft as far back as I want (as long as nothing gets in the way. That would leave the entirety of the available space above the battery for a hyd reservoir and the pump inlet would always be gravity fed.

That scheme is actually starting to make a lot of sense to me. It ticks off a lot of boxes. It leaves the oem system to run the oem accessories and an independant system dedicated to the loader and whatever other implements I might add later down the road. One thing life is taught me is its hard to go wrong with more capacity rather than less.

Time to crawl under the tractor again and see what’s what…
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 · (Edited)
Just ordered a replacement cup holder/glove box “tray” through a local dealer. Not too bad at 69 bucks Canadian. Toss 15% tax on that and we’re out the door.

Maybe a bit of a rip off for a flimsy chunk of plastic, but reasonable compared to most JD prices.

Now I can cut up the cup holder for the H3 handles and go back to stock (ie: functioning cup holder) should the whole thing go south on me and turn into a big cluster-f.

I kind of like what GPJay designed to combine two functions into one stick. With a little alteration (ie: horizontal mounted instead of vertical) that might work for me as well.
 

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A reminder that most pumps aren't rated to handle the load from a belt. Interesting challenge, though. Been there.
My 44 loader has that problem, it is leaking around the shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 · (Edited)
Well crap.

Mounting the pump under the tractor would have been the best solution. But….deere decided that they needed a crossmember right in front of the flywheel and less than an inch away from it. Compounding that problem is that the engine is tilted reward a few degrees, which means the belt would have to run right through the middle of said crossmember. So theres no where to route a v-belt to a pulley on the flywheel center and have the belt clear the crossmember.

Back to the drawing board……mounting above the battery seems to be the only real option now…..:(
 

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Back to batteries, hey, I am an electrical guy! Porsche, back in the early 911 days mounted dual batteries up front, motor was in back. They did it primarily for weight transfer, but you can adapt the concept to your tractor. Just slinging spaghetti at the wall to see what sticks. Tom
 

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How much room is there above the starter, in front of the alternator? Pics look like the pump might squeeze in there driven by a longer shaft, you get the idea.
 
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