Weekend Freedom Machines banner
61 - 71 of 71 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
187 Posts
Discussion Starter · #61 ·
Just to throw it out there, another option (and potentially a much simpler one) would be to plan to use the internal hydraulics and smaller diameter cylinders on the main boom - especially as you may need to get new cylinders. Just eyeballing it, the 2 1/2" cylinders will be able to lift way, way more than is safe anyway. For the curl, you could go to a single cylinder on a centered mount and that would allow you to reuse what you have, improve curl speed, and have a cylinder left over for another project.

For reference (and apologies if you already know this) the 40 loader came stock with 1.5" boom cylinders, and 1.75" curl cylinders. The 1.5"s were a little anemic, so I replaced them with 2" cylinders. The lift is a little slow, but not horrible, and I can lift as much as I'd ever feel safe lifting. The 45 loader on the newer machines upgraded to 1.75" boom cylinders, and I'm not sure about the curl.
Yep, the 2.5’s are overkill. But, I already have them and they’re brand new. Haven’t even had pressure on the yet. i’m a little reluctant to spend another 500-600 for a couple 2”-ers of the right length. 500-600 bucks isn’t exactly as easy to come by as coffee money, so I’d rather use the 2.5’s if I can. Worse comes to worse, I can always replace the 2.5’s later down the road.

Weight will be limited by bucket volume and I never carry loads in the bucket more than a few inches off the ground. Only time I get a load higher than that is when I’m stopped and dumping or scooping out of a pile. Both low risk scenarios for tipping when handling loads at any appreciable lift.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
187 Posts
Discussion Starter · #62 · (Edited)
Well, looks lime I’m going to have to put most of this project on hold for a while.

threw my back out at the beginning of the week (old injury from my days in SAR) and when that happens, I’m usually good to go after a few days bed rest.

Well, this time its not going away. In fact, it seems to actually be getting worse this time.

Pretty hard to bend and shape metal when you can’t even stand up. Let alone bear any extra weight if you do manage to get upright….
 

·
Registered
1989 318
Joined
·
1,883 Posts
Rest and recuperate, your project will wait.
 
  • Like
Reactions: farmer52

·
Registered
Joined
·
187 Posts
Discussion Starter · #64 · (Edited)
Tried a little time in the shop today.

Made a little progress r&r-ing my dads old #52 Wiss shears (circa 1955-ish). Then I got most of the cardboard template done for the center of the overhead panel for the reverse camera monitor. Right about then my back decided to let me know I had pushed it too far.

Was able to hobble/cane my way back to the recliner and after a fair bit of screaming, settled in for some rest and tv.

Getting a little bit tired of watching tv all day. This back has to calm down so I can actually get some things done around here. Back injury is about the most evil thing that can happen to you. It affects absolutely everything you want to do…
 

·
Registered
1989 318
Joined
·
1,883 Posts
I hear you with the back problems, I had some for a while and it sucks. I do not like to take meds, prefer to let stuff heal natural. Good luck man, lay low and stretch the muscles when you can. Tom
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
187 Posts
Discussion Starter · #66 ·
So, since I’m building an overhead console, I thought a radio might be nice.

grabbed a cheapy off ebay for 50 bucks:

Font Technology Electronic device Measuring instrument Display device


Bit fancier than I need, but it will do am/fm, bluetooth from the phone and will take usb sticks or CF cards.

My tractor isn’t exactly loud inside the cab, but its not exactly quiet either. So I figured I could use my bose noise cancelling headphones to cut down on the noise and make the music sound better than open speakers.

But car radios don’t have headphone jacks. Ebay provides the solution again:

Compact cassette Musical instrument Musical instrument accessory Automotive lighting Audio equipment


It’s a small amp that takes the stereo line outs and sends it to a headphone jack.

The radio itself will go up front in the console and the headphone amp will mount up in the back of the cab. That way I can plug in my headphones and the cord won’t be in the way. I’ll probably still mount a couple 6x9’s in the back of the cab, but the main listening device will be the headphones. The 6x9’s will probably come in to use when I park the tractor and work on things like flower beds and such.

I looked at using the leftover car radios I have hanging around, but they’re all cd drive units. That makes them just too long to package nicely in the overhead console. The ebay one has no drive, so its about 3-4” shorter in depth, which will fot in quite nicely…
 

·
Registered
1989 318
Joined
·
1,883 Posts
Fancy stuff!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,581 Posts
Don't know your situation, but can sympathize on the hurt back. Got tossed off a saddle horse more than 30 years ago and landed on my tailbone & lower back on concrete. OUCH! after a few months of struggling recovery I took some ultrasound treatments from a chiropractor...helped a lot with the pain. Also learned that whirlpool hot tube soaking wonderful medicine too...but might require a helping hand to get in and out.
Jusy sayin...worked wonders for me. Good luck with your back & recovery.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
187 Posts
Discussion Starter · #69 ·
Back was good enough today to do a couple hours of work in the shop. Managed to get most of the center piece of the overhead panel built:
Automotive tire Television Audio equipment Electrical wiring Television set


Wood Gas Tints and shades Electrical wiring Fixture


Thats the 4 camera view monitor (front, rear and both sides looking rearward).

Still pretty raw, but at least its a start. It’s 1/8” aluminum, tig welded together (too thick to bend for my 36” brake). Picture makes it look like it hangs down in the line of sight, but thats just the camera angle. It sits level with the cab frame and is out of your vision.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
187 Posts
Discussion Starter · #70 · (Edited)
Last time I used the snowblower, the wiper on the cab kinda sucked. Not that it didn’t work, it performed as designed. It’s just that the design…well, sucks. It was almost like I was staring through a small porthole after using the wiper to clear snow off the glass.

so I went on a hunt to make it better.

First thing to try was a longer wiper blade. The original is getting on for 4 years old, so it was time anyways. I picked up a 28” blade with a steel frame. First fit was pretty good, but still a bit short for my liking. Not to mention the longer blade hit the arm pivot when it cycled.

I pulled it back off and did a little “tongue sticking out” measuring. I ended up redrilling the attachment hole to move it away from the pivot and out over more windshield.

Old compared to new:

Motor vehicle Gas Automotive exterior Engineering Glass


For comparison, the old blade is sitting under it’s orginal mounting point on the arm.

Blade sweep with offset 28” blade:

Motor vehicle Hood Vehicle Automotive lighting Car


Gets me about 5-6” more coverage on the windshield where it matters. Thats about all I can get as it clears the windshield mounting bolts by an inch or two:

Hood Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Automotive tire Yellow


There still is that area in the bottom right side, but thats just how it has to be with the W/S wiper motor mounted top left.

Was a worthwhile swap for the price of a blade and drilling one hole. If you look close enough, you can tell something isn’t quite right or has been altered because the wiper arm isn’t attached to the oem holes on the blade frame. If I get enough free time, I might 3d build and print a cover to snap over the hole thing so it looks a bit more “oem”.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,581 Posts
Definitely an improvement...keep posting...love to see how folks work things out to their ultimate satisfaction...lots of inspiration in that.
 
61 - 71 of 71 Posts
Top