[DEERE317]

Thinking about getting a 3pt on the 317, which naturally means I'd need a plow for it.
And then promptly realized I don't know much about the many different variations of Brinly Cat 0 and Sleeve hitch plows and how they compare.
I'm pretty sure they came in 8", 10", and 12" moldboards. 10" and 12" are the more common.
My understanding is that there are natively 3pt plows, sleeve hitch plows that had the sleeve for the sleeve hitch replaced by an A-Frame, and then Sleeve hitch plows on either 3pt to SH or 2" receiver to SH adapter with 2" trailer movers. Please correct me on anything I missed or mistaken in that.
How to they all compare in terms of functionality?

 

[tmac58star]

What do you do with a moldboard plow that can't be done with a disk plow? Not nit-picking, just curious.

 

[DEERE317]

What do you do with a moldboard plow that can't be done with a disk plow? Not nit-picking, just curious.

Heavy tillage, recreational tillage, and fun.
Mainly fun, I'm a weird nutcase who like European heavy tillage and thinks moldboard plows are cool.

 

[tmac58star]

No difference in terms of end results between the two for heavy & recreational tillage...fun is a matter of perspective though.

 

[dhager4692]

What do you do with a moldboard plow that can't be done with a disk plow? Not nit-picking, just curious.

A moldboard plow will more effectively turn under trash like cornstalks and other crop residue.

 

[drew]

The Brinly's came in 8, 10 and 12 inch. I have one of each for the sleeve hitch. The plow and the arm appear to be the same. I think you are correct that the actual hitch piece that connects to the plow is different, kinda obvious difference between one with the C channel and the 3 holes and one with the mount for a Cat 0 3 point.

Here's a good picture of the integral hitch (sleeve hitch) connection. I don't have one of the 3 point. The 3 point A frame would bolt on at the first 2 bolts on the plow.

 

[drew]

Here's a pic of a 3 point. Jim Briney is the driver. Anyone remember him?

 

[minisub]

I remember Jim quite well. I'm still using his heavy duty snow blower skids!

 

[tmac58star]

A moldboard plow will more effectively turn under trash like cornstalks and other crop residue.

True, but then you have to smooth/level with a disk-harrow anyway. Grandpap Floyd used to shred his stalks, then deep disc with cutter blades and then disk/harrow over that. He thought it added more organic material to the top layer of soil, rather than turning it deep. Plus he started with horse teams so probably had bad memories of turning plows.

 

[mike]

I remember Jim, I think I met him at a PD somewhere too.

 

[DEERE317]

True, but then you have to smooth/level with a disk-harrow anyway. Grandpap Floyd used to shred his stalks, then deep disc with cutter blades and then disk/harrow over that. He thought it added more organic material to the top layer of soil, rather than turning it deep. Plus he started with horse teams so probably had bad memories of turning plows.

Some guys ran heavy discs, different benefits and cons. We run a tiller over everything anyways, just recreational fall/spring tillage.

 

[DEERE317]

Any opinions here on sleeve hitch adapters (such as the one offered by Ruegg) vs switching the sleeve hitch sleeve out for an A-frame?

 

[drew]

I remember Jim, I think I met him at a PD somewhere too.

He was at Bluniers a couple times.

 

[drew]

Any opinions here on sleeve hitch adapters (such as the one offered by Ruegg) vs switching the sleeve hitch sleeve out for an A-frame?

It seems to be more of whatever you are used to. The 3 pt gives much more adjustability. I seemed to always follow guys that couldn't get their 3 pt right. I've used them, but never really had to set one up. I can usually get a sleeve hitch set up quick, I should as that's what I've used for years.

 

[DEERE317]

It seems to be more of whatever you are used to. The 3 pt gives much more adjustability. I seemed to always follow guys that couldn't get their 3 pt right. I've used them, but never really had to set one up. I can usually get a sleeve hitch set up quick, I should as that's what I've used for years.

Either would be on a 3pt, just one would be converting the plow to native 3pt (something like the bottom one here: Plow Parts Cub Cadet 3 Point A-Frames Cat 0 Category 0 Lift - Cub Cadet Parts List International Harvester IH Cub Cadet 3 Points Sleeve Hitch Parts) or just running a 3pt to sleeve hitch adapter (probably Ruegg's Drawbar with Sleeve Hitch, Ruegg MFG - Agricultural Draw Bars for various Tractors)

 

[drew]

Either would be on a 3pt, just one would be converting the plow to native 3pt (something like the bottom one here: Plow Parts Cub Cadet 3 Point A-Frames Cat 0 Category 0 Lift - Cub Cadet Parts List International Harvester IH Cub Cadet 3 Points Sleeve Hitch Parts) or just running a 3pt to sleeve hitch adapter (probably Ruegg's Drawbar with Sleeve Hitch, Ruegg MFG - Agricultural Draw Bars for various Tractors)

Either one works. More adjustment options with the true 3 pt. Might be splitting hairs in the end.

 

[DEERE317]

There’s a plow in C-list not to far, looks to be in decent shape other than rust (looks straight, has the concavity on the bottom of the plow share the creates suction to pull it down, etc). Has a coulter on it. S/N B-75-24248 if that tells any specifics.
Any experts on here have any thought or info?

 

[Fox Run Farms]

In my garden area/pumpkin patch on my hobby farm I use work it up with an atv and pull behind spring tooth drag. It got a 2-3 inches in the ground and it made for a decent seed bed. Only issues were the ground couldn't be too hard and the drag would plug up with trash a lot.

I wanted something to be able to chop up the stalks and vines better and found a used king kutter disk I painted up and fabricated some weight brackets to, to add more down pressure. It did the job of chopping up debris but didn't dig into the soil much.

I used the disk for about 3 years and noticed production was going down where I used it even with proper fertilizing. Talking with a local agronmist he said the disk was creating a hard pan and need to really turn the soil over.
This early fall I found a cheap plow I plan on fixing up to use. I tried it out and couldn't believe the results.

I also bought a field cultivator that I attached a spike tooth drag to the back to level off after the plow. That really makes a nice seed bed. Looks like a tiller did it.

A flail chopper is on my list to buy next to knock down the stalks and vines cause those plug up the plow. I like plowing in the fall to burry any debris and let it break down over winter. For a pumpkin patch it's a lot of gas and equipment time and definitely don't get my money back but it's fun to play farmer and use the equipment and at the end of the day that's all that matters.

 

[jake_vc]

There’s a plow in C-list not to far, looks to be in decent shape other than rust (looks straight, has the concavity on the bottom of the plow share the creates suction to pull it down, etc). Has a coulter on it. S/N B-75-24248 if that tells any specifics.
Any experts on here have any thought or info?
View attachment 286245
View attachment 286246
View attachment 286247

Looks like it could clean up nice.

 

[Fox Run Farms]

There’s a plow in C-list not to far, looks to be in decent shape other than rust (looks straight, has the concavity on the bottom of the plow share the creates suction to pull it down, etc). Has a coulter on it. S/N B-75-24248 if that tells any specifics.
Any experts on here have any thought or info?
View attachment 286245
View attachment 286246
View attachment 286247

As you mentioned it looks straight . See how the coulter spins and pivots and if the crank is stiff. Nothing some diesel fuel or pb blaster can take care of. 3 days of spraying, banging and soaking I got mine free on my little wonder.

In my area 1 bottom plows go for 150 to 200 give or take. If all that stuff is freed up just polish it up a bit. I used a wire cup wheel on my grinder and finished it off with a buffer/blending wheel.