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The junkyard dog 214 build

1829 Views 24 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  johndeere112
Have been cutting grass all season yet this morning the PTO wouldn't engage, no click, no smoke, no nothing. I checked the PTO switch connections and disconnected the seat switch but still nothing. Something has happened basically overnight. Can someone give me a run down of the troubleshooting process of elimination? Is there a fuse somewhere?
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I checked the voltage at the PTO plug under the frame. It's getting about 12 volts so I'm thinking it's a PTO malfunction. How is it evaluated?
I connected a test lead from the PTO plug to the battery positive and it smoked it. The PTO must be shorted out. How do I keep the engine from turning to get the bolt out of the PTO?
Tim use an impact wrench. If you don't have an impact take a spark plug out and thread some clean/new 1/4 inch nylon rope into the hole leaving an end sticking out. That will stop the crank from moving. When you get done pull the rope out and replace the spark plug. Roger
Thanks Roger, the impact worked faster than finding the rope. It didn't drop off immediately but the last time I had it off I used anti-seize. We'll see if it's my best friend right now.
Impact driver took the bolt out, rubber mallet got it to fall off and $300 in John Deere's pocket replaced it.
OK, now I find that the replacement clutch is a keyed bored whereas the original had a keyway that engaged with the drive pulley key. The parts diagrams shows the key as 2.2 inches long as mine is but the drive pulley is only 1 3/4" leaving almost half inch sticking out the bottom to engage in the original clutch. Should I be cutting the key down to keep it flush with the drive pulley? Is it that simple?
Tim I would call the dealer and ask what to do. I am sure their service department has done this before. Roger
I would follow Roger's advice - if this is indeed the replacement part, they should have encountered this before.
Parts guy said, yeah just shorten the key.
i finally figures out that im using a 214 that already has a a motor got to get hood and tranny and some other stuff but im building it straight from the junk yard if i have to rebuild motor thats a different story but here it is
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Sweet. Do it all. They are not expensive. I had just over 600 in the k301 block rebuild. All the other add-ons like pto/carb/fuel pump/battery/coil etc puts that figure just under 1300.00 to get a reliable engine. I have never worked much on the trannies. They seem inexpensive as well.

My build of up of a junk 212 is just under 2400.00 but w/o paint. I cant bring myself to take it all apart again just to paint it. Maybe someday.

It is worth it. They dont make stuff like these any longer.
im trying to do it with as little as possible
as little as possible turns into borrowing the neighbor's Sears rider. Ask how I know............
I'm currently rebuilding a k241 (and an entire 1975 210) The machine work (hot tank, boring, check crank, grind new valve seats, lap new valves) costed me $115. The rebuild kit with new valves, rod, piston, rings, etc was $115 shipped. All i have to do is lap the head flat and put the motor together. I don't really see a reason for a new carb, pto, fuel pump, etc if everything is working/rebuilt and functioning fine. I've had enough issues with "new" parts failing out of the box that now I don't replace just because they're old. Plus, I like my metal fuel pump!

I went the Kohler route. The piston alone is $50+ and just to bore the block is $45 then there is a new rod, and new valves and they have to be ground. Turning crank is 45.00 Mill the head is $30 which was purchased use on ebay for 50.00 as the original was torched for some reason. Almost exactly 600.00 just for the block repairs. The electric PTO from ebay is 150.00 and that needs new bearings. The factory carb rebuild is 80.00 plus. I did locate a used old style fuel pump on ebay. It may have been 25.00?? Four new engine isolators.............


a new seat from Deere is just shy of 90.00 and battery is 40.00+ A used variator is 75.00 and that needs a new bearing too.
It is far far cheaper than a two-cylinder farm tractor. And I can fit more of these single cylinders in my garage.
I wasn't trying to jab at you or anything, just saying it can be done for less.
right. Cool. I maintain a fleet of school buses so I am accustomed to fixing things w/o concern of time and money incurred.

If you understand my situation.

I purchased an advertised "good" tractor from a WFM member that had been "put together". Not something I would want to have **my** name on.
i have my 317 to mow with and i plan on rebuilding motor not cheap but i mean everything else is from junk yard
here it is on its wheels this thursday i will go back and put trans in it and get it rolling so that i can get more work done to it and will hopefully get it in side to do motor work
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