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I removed the MCS today following that procedure in the manual and it's way easier without the collection box attached. I laid it back down onto a dolly which made moving the the box out of the way very easy. Then I just lifted the frame and blower etc. off the back of the tractor. I carried on and removed the mower and MCS attaching points, and reinstalled the 3pt hitch and snowblower as we had a decent snow go through here today so I doubt there's going to be any more leaf pickup this year.
However, I sprung a leak in the rear hydraulic remotes pipe so it'll be minimal use of the chute rotator until the new tubing arrives. I picked up a set of u-groove pulleys to straighten out the coiled tube - will mount those on a piece of 3/4 maple.
The input u-joint flange on the mower deck gearbox has flogged out which would explain some of the vibration so that'll be a winter job to replace that. Hopefully it's the joint that's flogged and not the gearbox shaft but we'll see....
Snow cab needs some r-n-r too so yet another task for spring / summer. Really must get around to replacing the steering knuckles and rebushing the front axle. Never ends!
 

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Neil, a couple of years ago I did a thread on this site on how I, attach and remove the MCS on a 322. I probably should have called it something better so it would come up during a search . If you search, 322 MCS Installed in 20 min . Give it a look you might enjoy.
 

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Thanks Gene, I can believe now I have that manual. It was so easy compared to trying to wrestle it on in one piece. Makes it easy to do r-n-r on it too.
I took a look and in your first picture, there are three bolts that hold that entire bracket on. Using the same concept as yours, I just removed the entire bracket, slid that bracket off the tube on the box, and then pushed the box the other way a couple of inches to slide it off the other bracket - I laid it back on a four-caster dolly from HF so sliding it around was easy
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Wish I would have found that how-to about 10 months ago! I eventually figured it out, but man it is was a bear. Four bolts and 2 springs is much more manageable that the whole thing at once. I'll be putting it up for the winter this weekend myself. Figures though with the snow....it's still raining leaves. I'd estimate another couple days and I won't be able to see the majority of the snow.
 

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Another fall season has passed, and the MCS worked well. However, I didn't like the amount of vibe coming from it, nor how I can't quite pull "top gear" on the blower. So I took the blower off to inspect and it turns out the blower shaft is bent enough to cause the front bearing frame on the blower housing to pulse in an out. Recipe for fatigue right there. So a new shaft is in order - I'll take the existing one round to my guy and see how much he wants to make me a new one. They're 200 at the shop so I'll try him first.
Then, I have a 48" B-section belt coming to replace the 50" on the input pulley-to-variator, which will enable me to pull a few more rpms.
I checked the balance on the blower fan with the mower blade balance tool and it's pretty darn good, which surprised me.
Will likely cut out a thin section on the bottom of the blower housing and replace it with new, as it's worn through. Brand new double u-joint assembly on the input shaft works like a charm.
Once that's done it's on to replacing a shaft inside the 60" deck gearbox and fab up a new, lower restriction muffler that mounts to the engine differently as the current design keeps coming loose with the puny 6mm bolts holding it on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Interested to know how the shorter belt fits. I always thought the two belts on there were a bit loose brand new out of the package. Even with the blower housing adjusted for belt tension. You either can't get full slow, can't get full fast, or it's too tight to adjust the variator even with it moving.
 

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Yeah, since the belts are so cheap on vbeltsupply, I'll just try out different lengths until I get a pair that enable the widest range of variator usage, including having the highest speed. Doesn't matter if cheap belts don't last because once I figure out the lengths I want, and those belts wear out, I'll buy better quality ones at those lengths
 

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Update on belts - I bought a B48 from vbeltsupply for the input pulley to the variator, and use the OEM belt from the variator to the blower pulley. Gives exactly the range from low to high. I found the OEM belt from the input pulley was too long. The blower turns so fast in high that I'm not sure I want to run it there with the tractor at full volume. I've balanced it as much as I can but I think for 5000rpm it really ought to be dynamically balanced in a shop
 

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Fitted up the bin - timed it and it was five minutes. 3 bolts on the bracket on the left side, tip it up, climb under and attach the damper and the two springs. With the new improved belting giving a better range of low to high rpm, it darn near sucks the grass out of the lawn
 
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