[jchrisking]

I have my disassembly complete and the only thing I got stuck on is this variator arm. The bolt that runs thru it is frozen solid. I had to cut the head of the bolt off to remove it. Does anyone know if it is threaded all the way thru or should it press out? The ferrule/sleeve seems to be pressed into a rubber bushing but the parts break-down doesn't reflect that.

 

[JDF/ SwampFox]

That bolt should move freely within the bushing. I had one I used a press to remove.

 

[jchrisking]

That was the direction I was heading. Thx for confirming it should press out.

 

[ed_lincoln]

Both the bolt and the ferrule should come out, The 2 "O" rings are supposed to seal the variator arm up so it can be greased with the grease fitting, the fitting is #35 on your drawing.

 

[jchrisking]

That thing was seized in there so hard I was starting to suspect it was threaded thru.... but you guy’s confirmed it was as it appeared on the parts diagram. I rigged up a puller to push it thru.... it never really did break loose, I had to push it most of the way. Probably hadn't seen any lube in 40 years. Really was the only part on the tractor seized up, other than the camshaft pin that I'm fighting now.

 

[JDF/ SwampFox]

I'm not so sure it wasn't Ed Lincoln who helped me with mine back a couple years ago... someone told me how it worked before I was ready to torch it.....lol

 

[tommyhawk]

Just to be clear, on the variator arms with the greaseable hardened steel ferule or bushing, the arm is supposed to pivot about the bushing only. The bushing should be long enough to be clamped in place between the supports, when the bolt is tight. Once the bushing and arm "become one" it tries to pivot around the bolt which will tighten and/or loosen the bolt. Lots more friction and inoperable variator.

Take pains to not cause any more damage than necessary to the bushing. Pretty sure new ones are NLA from JD.
After removing the rust from the bore and bushing, and reassembling to the tractor, make sure the bushing is captured tightly between the supports with the bolt fully tightened. Sometimes the previously stuck bushing wears into the supports effectively making it too short and causes the arm to be captured between the supports. Yeah, clear as mud, but this will make sense when you put it back together.

tommyhawk

 

[smalljob]

When mine froze it also made the hole in the pedestal egg shaped. When I freed up the arm and bushing I still had variator problems because the arm would pivot out of the normal back and forth plane. That caused the pulley not to slide correctly. I ended up removing the pedestal and welding the hole closed and then drilled it back to the correct shape and location. That resolved my problems.

 

[tommyhawk]

Good info, Bill. Though the parts are different, the same thing can happen on some of the square fender tractors. Some where along the way, the design changed to oillite bushings and a shoulder bolt. The bushings were press fit and the whole assembly was supposed to pivot around the bolt's shoulder. No grease fitting IIRC. Not sure if it happened during the late 100 series tractor or just the 200 series.

tommyhawk

 

[lt230s]

Tom,
You are right. I had the same issue on my '72 110 SF (SN 252,xxx). It had a zerk, but it was a location that was not easily accessible. PO must have never greased it and I had to have my JD guy press it out. Cleaned it up, reinstalled it and I make sure it gets grease every spring & fall
It must have been the 200 series that the shoulder bolt and bushings.
John

 

[jchrisking]

Good info on this whole thread. If the bushing is NLA then I still need to get this bolt out of the thing.... and that guy is rusted in there SOLID.

My puller as a pusher routine won't get that done. I know someone with a press, will it work on a part that small?

Also, TOM, I did trim the length of the bushing about 1/32" when I cut the head of the bolt off. I don't think it will take much to make a spacer to create the room for the arm to pivot freely when I reassemble... but I'm sure glad to know now to do that.

 

[smalljob]

good luck on that. I was never able to get mine apart with a 20 tom press. I was lucky and had a donor machine for stuff like this. You could try posting in the wanted to buy section to see if someone has a parts tractor with this available.

 

[tommyhawk]

Easiest way to remove the bolt is to drill it out, with a drill bit the same size as the bolt, in a lathe. Drill from each end if necessary. Standard drills may be too short to go all the way through.
If you don't have a lathe or access to a shop that does, try heating the bushing, let it cool completely, then heat again and try pounding the bolt out with a punch. I don't think you will destroy the case hardening this way.
And yes, I think a spacer can get it to work with the bushing shortened by only 1/32". I'd recommend the spacer washer to have a hole 1/64" larger than the bolt, and an O.D. 1/64" smaller than the counterbore where the O-ring seats. Then you can tell us what tricks you used to get that little rascal in there. LOL

I salvaged the one on my '67 after completely buggering it on one end trying to remove the arm from the tractor. Bad move for me. Can show scars on each hand from the BFH and sharp metal.

Can't do it now, but I'll check my notes from the '67 and '68 adventures with these bushings. Maybe I made sketches of them that included dimensions. If I didn't, I should have. The sketches in JD Parts have vanished along with the parts.

tommyhawk

 

[jchrisking]

Thanks Tom

The heat, cool, heat again trick did it.

Now on to engine rebuild.

 

[tommyhawk]

Ya-a-a-a-y, John!
Still looking for the sketch. Too many places out in the cave to hide. Maybe the mice got 'em.

tommyhawk