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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I don't venture to this side of the site much as my own equipment is older, but I figured the same friendly help will be offered here as in the pre-1992 side.
Working on a 335 tractor @ 711 hrs, not sure of the year.

First issue to fix; This 335 will run on one cylinder intermittently and lose power. You can't predict when it will do this and it's only for a moment and the dead cylinder will come back. This 335 has original plugs and air filter which I plan on replacing. (with the neighbors permission)

Second issue; The charging light is on constantly unless you have the engine at full throttle. I need to locate the regulator so I can test output.

Third issue; I need tips on removing the rear fender deck to access a squeaky idler pulley and in line trans oil filter.

Thanks in advance for all and any replies.
Eric.
 

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Eric, sure isn't your Daddy's Oldsmobile, is it? I don't know much about all the electrical stuff on these animals either. However, replacing the plugs just might cure one problem. Gap both of them to .030, as nearly the same as possible. Kawasaki twins seem very sensitive about this.
The regulator/rectifier should be found on the right side of the engine, just in front of the starter. This is assuming it has an air cooled, twin, FH601V Kawasaki. (If not, I'm sending you off on a wild goose chase.) Look for melting at the plastic connector and good ground where it's attached. If all good there, continue with testing input/output.
Don't think you really need to remove the fender deck and tunnel cover for the drive belt and idler pulleys. They can be accessed from under the tractor with the mower deck removed.
If you want to take the sheet metal off, looks like the two pieces can't be left bolted together. Remove both "go" pedals, two bolts at rear supports, two nuts under foot rests (carriage bolts hidden under rubber pads), maybe four bolts attaching fender to tunnel (thru frame bracket?), and seat switch wire.
The trans. filter? I dunno!
Good luck!

tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Tom,
Thanks for the reply.
Yes it is an air cooled twin Kawi.
I looked at the fender deck today when I got home and I think I'll try to figure out which pulley is squealing from underneath. That 335 fender deck is a lot harder to remove than either my 112 or 430 is.
We are planning on changing the trans fluid and I saw on JD parts.com that there is an inline filter
that we don't think has ever been changed.
I found the regulator and the plug looks OK (not melted) I'll be testing it this weekend.
Thanks.
Eric.
 

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Maybe you will see the trans. filter from underneath, too. Hope I didn't scare you off on the fender deck. I haven't done that on a 335, but most of the newer ones are easier than the old ones in that respect. The pedals each have two carriage bolts to remove.
I did something to a 335 once, probably the electric clutch. I do remember how much I liked it. Nice machine for mowing. I also remember a lot of electronics on board. Looked like a safety engineer gone wild!
Hope the tests show the stator is OK. But it's easier to replace than the older horizonal models. Don't have to remove the engine.
I hope one of our electrical gurus can help if you need it.

tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Tom,
My neighbor added to the list that last time he mowed tall grass the blades would stop. I assumed the mower drive belt was the cause, John Deere is not shy on their belt prices!
What's your opinion on aftermarket belts? Are they worth the time to install or should we pay the BIG bucks for JD belts. I've always stayed with JD for my belts and had good success.
Thanks.
Eric.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Roger,
For my own equipment I couldn't agree more as I'm all for JD belts. Having not worked on many of these next generation JD's I wasn't sure if the same belt logic applied as does to my "old" JD's.
Thanks for the comment.
Eric.
 

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I agree on the JD belts. I put a aftermarket on my 345 snowblower for $20-$25 and it lasted for about 2 snows. I put a JD belt on it for $40-$45 and it has been on for over 2 years and still looks good. You do the math and see which one cost the less to run.
 

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Hi Eric,
I had a 335 with some of the same symptoms last year and mice had gotten in under engine cover and chewed the ground wire on one coil causing it short out intermittently. That could be your charging problem as well. Engine cover is very easy to get off and should be cleaned under there anyway.
 

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"First issue to fix; This 335 will run on one cylinder intermittently and lose power. You can't predict when it will do this and it's only for a moment and the dead cylinder will come back."

I am also working on a 335 with < 350 hours that has the same problem.

At 312 hours the left cylinder exhaust valve guide pushed out and bent both push rods. Replaced head, valves and push rods. Reset valve clearance on both sides.

Ran fine until about 340 hours then started the one cylinder intermittent running again. I don't think it is the other side head going bad. More of a feeling that is is electrical as in a magneto cutting out.

Have used a thermometer gun to measure each exhaust port piping right at the head with no firm indication of one being significantly hotter than the other after a a 3 -5 minute cutout.

Is it possible that I have a valve sticking part way open and it is still firing the fuel in the cylinder to keep the exhaust pipes close to the same temperature?

Going to pull the right head if I don't find an ignition problem.
 

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Finally determined it was a bad coil on the right side. After removing it found a small crack in the insulation and a lot of rust in the laminations.

JD had new coil for $98 so I went to the local KAW dealer and bought the $48 and tax coil.

While there I was talking with one of the salesmen who commented that they had taken a 318 in trade the day before and wanted $550 for it.

Bought it on the spot, a 1990 single owner with 918 hours. Dirty but used it to mow at the house.

Good day all told
 

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1977 JD212.
The pic is taken from left side towards right front wheel. Wondering about these pulleys....I am assuming they run the mower deck?
I didn't get the deck with purchase, just a front plow.



 

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I had to rebuild the set on one of the 212's and due to the fact everyone refers to these as the mule drive I was at a loss to locate parts.

I cannot recall what deere refers to these as. Something strange I'm sure. Sorta-like the cranking engine everyone refers to as the pony motor.
 
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