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Sounds like a lot of detailed work. I always thought it would be nice to build some blinds for inside. Not sure how to do it though.
 
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Changed the oil on our '01 ranger yesterday and did rear differential today. Ran into a little issue with fill plug. Wouldn't come loose with heat and PB Blaster and ended up rounding it out. My son welded bolt on it and popped loose. What should have been an hour turned into three. S*"t happens.
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Early in the morn here in southwest Wisconsin. Haven't been to the garage yet today but we are getting a mild rain. That is good. Projects for today ...
  • Over the weekend I removed bucket and boom cylinders from my Bobcat 325 excavator. Both leaking at rod seal. Need to finish cleaning up the boom cylinder and get them to hydraulic shop for rebuild. Boom cylinder barrel end pin has significant wear. Haven't mic'ed cylinder bore but suspect there will be wear also. Need to contact Bobcat dealer to discuss best repair procedure. Suspect they will say replace both cylinder and pin. Bore has grease seals on both sides.
  • Even in the rain I need to finish planting garden and flower beds.
  • Then back to work installing H3 in my 318 project.
 

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Made a raised garden planter box. 6' x 4' x 2' tall.

View attachment 253790
That looks great! Did you build it from plans or just wing it?
My mother mentioned the other day that she would like a raised bed garden. I'm looking at how to build one now.
 

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That looks great! Did you build it from plans or just wing it?
My mother mentioned the other day that she would like a raised bed garden. I'm looking at how to build one now.
I just winged it. I just typed up a very brief description of the build process and when I went to post it I hit the cancel button by accident because I did not have my reading glasses on. Now I'm a little frustrated about that. I spent a good 10 min typing it up for you. Maybe later I can redescribe the process I used.
 

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While working on excavator cylinders yesterday morning
  • I found a threaded boss on the boom cylinder with cap screw broken off in boss. The boss/hardware is used to retain a guard to protect cylinder/plumbing. This was missing when I purchased excavator. Will replace guard.
  • Boom cylinder barrel end bore has a bushing with grease passages. Bushing is worn. Repair will involve replacing bushing and pin.
  • Bucket and boom cylinder pin seals will be replaced.
  • I have ordered above parts ... repair shop will supply rod and piston seals.
 
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Bobcat dealer called me today. Tell me if you have heard this one before.

Boom cylinder barrel end bushing was a low volume part so available parts were sold to a company similar to Deere Vintage Parts. Cost of bushing is $40. Shipping is another $25. Pin is about $60. Going to cost me $150 with seals to rebuild pin joint ...

I expect to have $600-$700 in rebuilding two cylinders ... Ouch.

May have to go back to work to pay for this one.
 
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Gabby, I think I paid that a couple years ago to have my loader cylinders re-sealed but that was at a Bob Cat dealer
 
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Put a new seat on the L2550 tonight and lubricated slide for easier adjustment.
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Yes, it was needed John.
 
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Yes, it was needed John.
Yes it was, Gabby. I didn't realize until the new one was installed and sat upon. No more reclining back due to rotted /collapsed seat pan.
The wife is disappointed that it was black pan and not orange like the original. I have a can of Kubota orange in shop, so I will spray it and get a decal to make her happy.
 
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Did a hydro fluid drain/fill/replace on my 322 this morning. PO had it overfilled with plain jane Hy-gard low-vis, so it was a bear trying to see the level in the sight glass/tube. Put in the right amount of red-dyed hydro juice so the level is easy to see now. Ran it around the yard a couple of times then put it back in the shop...brutally hot here last few days, upwards of 95 and humidity around 80 percent. I was back in the house panting by 9:30, but a good morning altogether. Tropical storm Christobal is supposed to bring us some relief...maybe...Monday night, if it stays on course that is. Hope they have everything tied down in Louisiana.
 

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Actually, I'm in need of some electrical advice for my shop.

I bought a new air compressor, one that will make my blasting cabinet work efficiently I think. I was smug enough to believe I could figure out how to wire it to my existing sub panel in the shop. But I had done that so long ago I forgot I only used 12 AWG to do so. Short run, less than 50 feet from service entrance panel to shop.

The specs on the compressor drive motor says it has 17.2FLA. That theoretically leaves me with only 2.8amps of panel energy. The NEC indicates a 1.25 safety margin which would be 21.x amps for the FLA of the motor. This is where I get confused.

Near as I can tell the 17.2 FLA should never be met by the motor. The tag doesn't directly tell me what the running or starting amps are. On a bad compressor day I would guess the 17.2 amps means before the motor melts down (actually it's circuit fault protector would trip).

I know I can run the compressor on what I have, what I don't know is if that's all I can run on what I have available...safely. For now I have all my LED shop lights and one quad outlet on the panel. Not much load at all. The quad outlet is rated for 20 amps total and the light circuit is rated at 15amps for 4 LED lights (the total wattage being less than 125 or about 1.5 amps+/-). However, I run my little 120v wire welder on it, the grinders, circular saws, and battery chargers- both automotive and cordless. Sometimes a 150' 10awg extension cord to power the tank heater on my tractor in the winter. Two different circuits for the lights and outlets at this time in other words.

I also know that except for the chargers and tank heaters occasional use, I would likely never be running the air compressor along with the other tools. Easy enough to flip that breaker off if I need to use something else. I've never had any issues so far because the loads I've used are rather small.

Nevertheless, I bought a roll of 10/3awg UF-B to run a new line. Two options there, overhead or underground. Over head would be sooo much easier, but underground would be soo much more logical. I also bought a small roll of 10/2 to go from the panel to the compressor.

So, the questions are:

Should I run a different wire to a different sub-panel dedicated to the little 60gal compressor?

Just add another 2-pole breaker for the 240v to the compressor and call it good? (using 12ga Nm). Remember, I only have 12ga wire feeding the sub-panel from the house.

Or bury (or hang) a new 10ga wire and run it to the sub-panel I already have and abandon the existing wire? I won't actually abandon it, I'll find a use for it regardless. Waste not, want not. Might run it up the side of the house and put a flood light system on it with an outdoor switch to light up my rudimentary outdoor work bench.

Please, don't tell me to hire an electrician. I have one that lives about two miles up the road.

We don't have many codes to abide by here in this county. I don't have to get a building permit because I'm considered a farm. I know about bonding, and grounding, and the difference between them. I am familiar with 240v systems from many eons ago when I worked on industrial cooling and ventilation systems. Some things have changed, many haven't. Electricity won't kill me, but the amps will. What I don't remember is how to size a breaker box. Wire gauge determines breaker size, that's the easy part. Determining the load total is where my memory breaks down. One of the changes I'm not familiar with is how they rate motors now. We used to use FLA but also running amps and starting amps. It's the total of all the occasional loads that stymie me. I'm the only one that works in there, I can only use one or two tools at a time (two being the welder and grinder).

I guess that's all I can ask.
 

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Randy, you definitely need a larger feed to the sub panel in your shop. Wire is definitely the expensive part of it. But if you know what you’re load will never exceed, you can base it from that. You’re compressor needs #10 to it with a 30 amp breaker. Most 20 amp breakers will trip around 16 amp, or 80% of rated load. 30 amp is around 24 amp. If you are using a blast cabinet, it probably has a light and vacuum if it’s like mine. Lights will be on in shop as well. So that is a circuit to itself. If it’s not far from service, I’d run at least #8 or #6 wire so you know you have plenty and won’t be in the shape you’re in now with a new tool in the shop. Buried under ground in pvc or ridgid conduit would be ideal if you are able to. Always put in bigger than you need on conduit in case you decide to change wire size later.
 
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