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That's what I was thinking but ignored myself. I had some #6 in hand at the store- 50ft about $125.

I kept telling myself that the shop isn't big enough to put more stuff in. It's only 15'x15'. It used to be a summer kitchen; it's old, corrugated steel and built from what they had on site after a crib or barn or something fell down or was taken down. All the studs are tongue and groove type 2x4's.

Since I've already bought the 10ga I think I'll cut my losses and just run a different panel for the compressor. Still will have to bury it. I did the last one by hand, That was a long time ago, I think I'll rent a trencher for this one and bury a 6" PVC conduit. Overkill is the name of the game in electrical work right? It's a short below ground run of about 20 feet but it was an old drive at some point back to 1850 when the house was built. Very hard digging at about the 10" level on down. I only got the other wire down to about 12" because of that. But this area is in no danger of new owners digging there.
 

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Got some shop time in on this weird, cool morning...temps were barely at 60 at first light. Got the deck lift arms off the 38-inch, two-blade deck...need to find a machine shop with a drill press to drill a couple of holes in them for the deck lift pins/knobs. Might also need to alter the ends a little where they anchor to the tractor frame.
Got the used JD 330 belly screen in the mail yesterday...bought on the auction site. Pretty toasty and rusty. Hit it with a wire brush without much effect, so I fetched the wire cup brush and old electric drill out of the garage and went at it. Took about 3 serious passes on both sides of the screen to make it almost 99 percent clean again. Then I covered the screen area with tape and newspaper and hit the rest of one side with some Rustoleum gloss black stops rust paint in a can. I'll do the other side this afternoon, then see about getting it on the 322.
 

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It's stopped raining for a few minutes so I think I'll go out and hang some lectric wire in my tiny shop for another set of 4' LED work lights. I also need to uncover some wall space to hang some insulation. I have a little 5,000btu AC unit in the wall. It's a old corrugated metal shed, it's like a ice box now in the winter and a unbearable sweat box in the summer. It only has one door and one small window that doesn't open. I'm looking for an automatic fan vent I can mount in the wall behind the new compressor to kill two birds with one fan. I just don't want to pay very much for it.
 

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I took the deck off the 140 yesterday and put new bearings in the hubs. Got a new tension spring and put it back together today. Got it back on the tractor and leveled the deck on it.

Then I added 75 lbs on the rear lift arm. An addition to help lighten the steering effort. Went and mowed a little with it, the steering is better, and deck is quiet.
The 140 would really be a great tractor if it had p/s on it.
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Spent most of today working on the draft arms from the 48 in deck for the 318. Cut, drilled and welded the pieces to the arms. They should work ok, I hope.
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Next the front draft arms. Yesterday I tried to get the yokes off. 1 yoke just wouldnt move. So today I went and got a different used one. This one loosened up and came apart nicely.
So out with the bad, in with the good.
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Tomorrow the lift straps will arrive and I can get it mounted and see if the PTO belt I have fits.
 
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If you have a knack for using your deck as a bulldozer like I do you might find it beneficial to weld a T piece on the solid arm from the deck mounting hole forward (on the bottom obviously) on the solid arm. I had to do this after I broke the arm twice last year. Of course, having a sloppy mule drive mounting hole in the front draft arm didn't help, the deck wobbled back and forth just mowing, which put a constant strain on the arm at the rear end of it at the lift mount hole.
 

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I was going to swap out the remote valves on my 1755 today but yesterday i cleaned the little shop and uncovered my parts washer that hasn't been used in a long time. I knew I was going to need it today. It's a big tub that sits on a 30 gallon drum of solvent. Industrial stuff. I bought it from where I worked when they shut the doors and kicked everyone out. When I turned it on I had solvent spraying everywhere! The hose to the brush had cracked open enough to cause a ruckus. Easy fix. I actually had some fuel line sitting around that fit. Apparently at some point in the last 25 years of use the hose that was put on it was a 1/4" hose, but both fittings were meant for a 5/16" hose which is what I had.

But, I never switched the valves out today, I didn't feel very good so I slacked off. Tomorrow for sure! I did get the new to me valves and cleaned them off some, even though they really weren't dirty. I also got the battery for my Farmall M on the charger since it was almost dead.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,830
Mr Randy, good luck with that.

Today i removed the deck from my JD 318 and found a hole about 2" by 4" in my 50" deck behind the left front tire .
Looks like it just rusted out.
Sure would appreciate any/all advice/tips/ information on how to fix/repair this hole.
Would it be better to weld or bolt a piece of metal from the underside or outside or both sides of my deck, and if so what metal do i use ?
If i have to purchase another deck, what sizes will fit ?
Thanks for the help .
 

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Just got around to doing the remote valves on my 1755 today. Valves were easy, levers to operate the valves were a major headache and probably where most of my problem was.

Crazy horse, my suggestion is to weld in a new piece. If you aren't comfortable doing it any welder should be able to. Even a body shop could do it if it was really power washed clean before you took it in. If the hole includes a top radius a body shop might be a better choice. Good decks are very expensive in most cases. Nevertheless, for stock sizes you could go with 46", 48", or another 50". In my wanderings around the webs looking at parts the least I've seen them go for is about $500+/- some. I think having it welded will be less than that. Those are just the prices I've sent, that doesn't mean you can't find one for much less I suppose.
 

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The area you describe seems like a common area for rot to occur on all decks.

I am not a body shop person but personally I feel the best way to repair this is to cut out the rotted area and weld in a patch panel cut from another deck. This way you are removing the bad metal and replacing with a preformed patch panel. The bad side to this is finding a donor deck with good metal in that area but worse shape than your deck. Good luck with the repair ... Gabby
 
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Received and mounted a new vise in the shed/shop.

Cleaned it up some, moved things around, threw a bunch of stuff away, and still have no space to move my feet. Drove a bunch of deck screws in the walls to hang stuff on, that didn't help make the shop any bigger either...

Found some tools I didn't remember forgetting about, decided I need to get some shelves and get stuff off the floor.

Worked a little on getting the big air compressor closer to being usable, worked a little on the 60 gallon air tank I salvaged from a passenger bus to up my reserve air capacity too. I think 120 gallons of air will work for my blasting cabinet if I can just get 50 amps run out there. I only have 20 amps now which has been adequate for what I've had out there so far. But I'm not sure how I want to run the electricity, from the house as a sub-panel or from the power pole as a service entrance. From the power pole will be considerably more expensive I think, but an electrician might be able to tap into one of the overhead lines entering the house at the house weather-head, which would make the run over to the shop only about 30' total, if it's allowed by code. But, I have to talk to an electrician about it and they don't seem to be very responsive around here, called two, both said they'd stop by, neither has. I'll probably just do it myself like I did the 20 amp sub-panel. I'll have to rent a trencher, I'm not digging through that old driveway again! Only 18' but hard as rock! It hasn't been a drive for at least 35 years either.
 

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I had to make some room in my little work shop also. Picked up a new toy Tuesday....

258009
 

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Hmm, So that would make Skwirl a Republican cuz he rides a "Trump" bike ?
 

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Good one, Bob.
I like that.
I should send a thank you note, all the free money helped, lol.
 
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Yes it did! I wouldn't have stimulated the economy the way I have without it. But this weeks the end of that. I have to go back to being dirt poor and barely making ends meet. My jobs hours are down to barely 15 hrs a week and not likely to pick up till we have this bug conquered or all us susceptible folks are dead and forgotten. That may be never. I think it's time to go semi-retired. I don't think I'll make another 3 years to full retirement.
 

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Sure you can, just keep your head down and your trap shut around the faux-bosses. I'm liking the work-at-home, limited hours pandemic condition...send/receive info via email or phone call and not visible enough, or remembered well enough, to be labeled a prehistoric fossil that should be shelved.
My shop time lately has been reduced to loitering, rearranging and scouting other repairs on the 322. Waiting on the federal employee to deliver parts...then I can put the deck/mule drive back on and buzz over all the summer grass that has enough nerve to grow. I think the next and maybe final two 322 projects will be tail-lights (don't ask why, never use them) and front hydro couplers just for fun. Forty-five of the next 60 days will likely be dog days...summer is dragging along.
 

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Well, it wasn't my shop but drove an hour to a good friends house to help him work on his Grasshopper 620T. One of the carrier bearings failed which I think ruined his 90° gearbox. I've never worked on a grasshopper and he isn't mechanically inclined and he also didn't have a manual so we farted around looking at it wondering how one fat guy and one old guy with terrible knees where going to get under the thing to pull the necessary parts off to get at the carrier bearings to pull them and the driveshaft out.

I was just going to have him lift it up and hang it from his loader bucket vertically after I took the fuel tank off and removed the belts from the drive. EasyPeasy. But his outside loader tractor (Deere 2555 FWA I think) wouldn't start and his never outside fully restored, bright and shiny, loader tractor (also a Deere, a 4000) was out of the question. He ultimately decided he would take it to his go-to Grasshopper mechanic.
 
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