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That's where my 318 was grounded, and I don't think the fender deck was ever off of it before I got it.
 
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Loading the tires on the 318. About 6 gallons per tire. It should be good for around 100lbs.


While I have this apart, let me ask, what are you guys grounding the rear lights to? I've been sticking the ground under the fender pan U clip, but it doesn't seem right.

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That is where it goes, but I changed the end to a larger ring connector so when you tighten it down it can't spring out from under the clip.
 

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I put the blower back on my 400 snow machine yesterday. It was 70 deg and sunny. But like Headless Ned Stark always says, winter is coming.

I put wheels on the Model 50 about 10 years ago to keep it out of the stones. There's about an inch of clearance. The wheels stick out past the blower cutting edge but it's never been a problem. All the wheels do is mess up the snow a bit on each side going through drifts. Doesn't ride up enough to be an issue and I don't blow out our stone driveway down to the last flake anyway.

I still haven't painted this machine. I sand blasted all the metal stuff and sanded the hood a few years ago though. I actually kinda like it this way. The JD primer gives it an industrial look and no worries about scratches or whatever and it definitely looks better than the scruffy faded green it used to be.
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Flashback.. to about 365 days ago yesterday. I was experimenting with my Yerfdog box at the time. Bought it for $100 at the surplus store. Has a small dent in it. It's bolted to my Al Z forklift. I had it on my Ford 800 3 point too.
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This is how the 1" bolts I used for the wheels are supported. There's 3 holes to choose from. I'm using the holes that provide the least lift. I can raise the blower about another half inch or so using the 3rd set of holes, which is lots of clearance. The holes are there to accommodate different sized wheels too. I used the 2 channels that run across the backside of the blower tub. They're there to add rigidity but they work great for 1" steel rods too. There's better ways to do it but this set up was really simple and required no welding. Plus.. I have lots of steel rods and flat steel stock left to me by my father.
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Mower deck off the 345, front blade on. Hopefully this works as it has the last three years, and keeps heavy snow away from the mountains of East Tennessee.
 

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Discussion Starter #4,548 (Edited)
Starter grinds and a hell of an oil leak on a new to me 318. Ill start with a cleanup.

The starter looks new compared to the rest of the crud on the engine. Could the new starter be bad, or maybe needs shimmed?

Thought I heard an exhaust leak.

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Bought another set of wheel weights and 2 more suitcase weights the other day and added them to my 318 with the set of wheel weights I already had.

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Reset the mowing deck height on both the 322 and 212 with one of my favorite shop tools...a conveniently idle 2X4. Also used my new toy, the Speedy Stitcher, to repair the seam damage I caused to the left rear corner of the Cyclone Rake by getting too close to the big wood stockade fence on the 212 while getting leaves up last weekend. Learned the process on a old glove cuff, set up the CR and went to work...took about an hour and it's ready to work again.
Speedy-Stitcher-Sewing-Awl-Kit_1.jpg
JD212CycloneRake.jpg

Gotta stay out of those tight corners!
 

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I procrastinated about as long as possible and took advantage of grandma's car gone from her side of the garage today to change over the 400. Although, I have been known to wait until the wind is howling and the snow is piling up to get ready. Put the cab together and grabbed the snow thrower off the rack-without even getting off the tractor. SSQA is darned convenient.

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Yer gonna almost be unstoppable now Grant.

Bought another set of wheel weights and 2 more suitcase weights the other day and added them to my 318 with the set of wheel weights I already had.

I'm retired and with covid there won't be many places to go this winter. Plus my brother is only a 1/4 mile away and he has a dedicated 420 with a cab and a big two stage blower. And the Ford 4000 with a loader that we share is parked over there. I also have a 6 ft rear blade for my old 800 Ford tractor. So I should have a very relaxed attitude about getting ready for snow clearing ..but I don't. I continue to take it as seriously as I would if I still had to get to the road and go to work every day. Old habits die hard. Just ask John Mcclane..

I procrastinated about as long as possible and took advantage of grandma's car gone from her side of the garage today to change over the 400. Although, I have been known to wait until the wind is howling and the snow is piling up to get ready. Put the cab together and grabbed the snow thrower off the rack-without even getting off the tractor. SSQA is darned convenient.
 

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Thanks Army! Many years ago I had a Ford 4000 (Select-o-Speed) that I put a 7’ Erskine snowblower on the loader arms. Ran a long driveshaft forward from the PTO.
 

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That would be at least a 10 ft driveshaft. Was there a hanger bearing partway?
 

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The Ford 4000 we have works fine as a loader but the gear drive is a PITA with no shuttle shift. The hand throttle is awkward for bucket work too. Needs a foot throttle. It was my father's tractor. I put an Allied loader on it so I could clean up his 3 sheds full of stuff. It was too big and clumsy for a lot of tasks. I ended up using my Ford 800 with a boom on the 3 pt a lot. I should have bought a small CUT with a loader to do the work instead.
 

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I scuffed up and painted the A frame 3 pt hitch attachment that came with the 400 I bought recently. It was really ratty looking but some elbow grease, JD med gloss black and new Cat 0 pins and presto. It has a receiver hitch but I have it pointing inward so I don't bang my shins on it. It must have been built by somebody in a hurry or new at fabricating stuff. The holes for the toplink pin don't line up and neither do the Cat 0 pin holes. The A frame is not welded together squarely either. It will work fine though. The receiver hitch tubing is also a size too small so I'm gonna have to modify it this winter.
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The 3 pt on that 400 had standard arms and hangers but the rockshaft was definitely not JD or Ruegg. This is how it looked when I bought it. Don't have a pic yet but I used a 1/2" steel rod instead of the 3/8" bolts to hang the arms on. Should be strong enough now to put my weight pallet on the back if I need it for pushing snow. Gonna make something better for it this winter.
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I overfilled the hydro system in this 400 by guessing how much it needed to get to the full mark on the dipstick. So I drained off the excess yesterday by disconnecting the oil cooler line to the steering valve. Was about a quart too much in there so it wasn't a very good guess. Had to use the oil cooler hose drain method because this is the 400 with the transaxle drain plug that won't come out. The extra fluid made the hydro squeal like a stuck pig when it was cold. It actually sounded the same as it would if the fluid was really low. Not as bad once it was warmed up but the first couple minutes were pretty annoying. I put a new hyd filter on it too. Quiet as a mouse now.
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Started dismantling my parts 400 yesterday so I'm less tempted to fix it up. This is the 3 spool valve body and linkages. Kinda hard to pick it out with the other stuff in the tub so you might have to take my word for it. It wasn't even bolted to the tractor. It was held in place by the hydraulic hard lines and the lever assembly. The rockshaft worked but using the lever was like churning butter. There was quite a bit of silliness like that on the tractor when I got it. Various missing bolts and things cobbled together willy nilly. I'm gonna flush it out and refurbish the valve and levers and stash it in the parts cabinet. Same with everything else I might need some day so it's ready to use. When I do a restore or even just a refurbish I prep and paint all the parts first and put them in a cabinet. I also order and stash whatever new parts I'll need and I raid eBay too. Then when everything is on hand and ready to go I assemble the tractor like I would a new one. That's the part I like the best. I practically wore out my Mechano set when I was a kid. This winter I plan to strip and paint the frame, transaxle/pump and prep everything else I have a spare of. That way if I decide later to spiff up the 400 with the Vanguard engine I'll have a headstart on it.
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Not very likely to be the I problem and I'm sure you already checked it but just to be thorough for any newbies to starter troubleshooting, is the ring gear okay?

Starter grinds and a hell of an oil leak on a new to me 318. Ill start with a cleanup.
The starter looks new compared to the rest of the crud on the engine. Could the new starter be bad, or maybe needs shimmed?
 
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