Weekend Freedom Machines banner
1 - 20 of 23 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
83 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looking at a 1977 212 on craigslist. It looks in decent shape but it does have issues. The main issue is its hard to start. I am very mechanical and can fix any issue I'm just looking for a fair value. It will need front tires due to dry rot, seat, battery, probably carb fuel or ignition work, oil changes on engine and diff, variator handle replaced. It comes with a 46in deck. Its missing the front lift linkage for a plow and whatnot. Its an all manual tractor. Im not sure the condition of the hub splines or transmission etc. Here is a picture.
Wheel Tire Riding mower Lawn mower Plant
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
3,619 Posts
I wouldn't go over $300 and try to get it for $250. You will most likely find problems that you cant see.
I have refurbished 4 tractors similar to that one, in that shape and before you know it you'll have another $1000 into it depending on the condition of the transaxle and engine. Just the things you mention will cost around $500 unless you have a 212-bone yard nearby. BTW, The variator speed control, if bad, is pretty expensive to buy a good used one .
 

· Registered
Joined
·
83 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I wouldn't go over $300 and try to get it for $250. You will most likely find problems that you cant see.
I have refurbished 4 tractors similar to that one, in that shape and before you know it you'll have another $1000 into it depending on the condition of the transaxle and engine. Just the things you mention will cost around $500 unless you have a 212-bone yard nearby. BTW, The variator speed control, if bad, is pretty expensive to buy a good used one .
Yeah that seems to be how any machine goes, there are always the hidden problems. I am waiting for a reply from the guy but I think we settled on $250
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
3,619 Posts
Yeah that seems to be how any machine goes, there are always the hidden problems. I am waiting for a reply from the guy but I think we settled on $250

I think that would be a good price for the unknown. Just be prepared and patient buying parts and you could end up with a nice ol 212. I really like gear drives like that, good luck and take pictures as you restore it.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,134 Posts
I bought a 216 a year ago that needed some things. Key switch to fix charging, motor mounts, rear mount welded, new carb, variator belts, transaxle lube, oil change, head gasket and TLC. It was a winter project and it came with a good deck.. I paid $300 and sold it for $550.
Check it over good. The motor mounts can be a big issue if they aren't replaced. I had to repair the frame where the mount was so bad the engine mount was hammering on the frame.
Tom
 

· Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Looks like a decent deck so that's a good start. Working on a 214 now. On the starting issue make sure you have a good ground from battery to starter solenoid. Key switch is also good to replace. One of the neat things about these is that almost all of the parts are still available from Deere. I think you did fine at $250. It is easy to spend more than they are worth, but if you intend to keep it a while, you can afford to make it reliable.

You can buy a genuine Kohler carb kit pretty cheap. I also bought a new "offshore" carb because my bowl had a pinhole in it. The whole carb was cheaper than a real Kohler bowl. So I have a spare carb if I need it, but the original body cleaned up really well in the Ultrasonic.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
3,619 Posts
You can buy a genuine Kohler carb kit pretty cheap. I also bought a new "offshore" carb because my bowl had a pinhole in it. The whole carb was cheaper than a real Kohler bowl.
I found that to be true on my log splitter too. I needed a new BOWL GASKET because the old one broke when I took the bowl off to clean it. The gasket cost almost as much as a brand new carburetor so I bought the carburetor for like $14.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
761 Posts
The paint looks decent other than the side panels. Those are the more common side panels, so you might be able to find a pair with nicer paint and have a decent looking tractor without having to do paint work.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JDF/ SwampFox

· Registered
Joined
·
761 Posts
The 210 leaks back pretty bad. I don’t run it as much as I should.
The fuel likes to drain back down on those models. Everyone I had took forever to start without help until I put an electric pump on them.
 

· Registered
1980 210 with hydraulic lift, 37a snowblower, 39 mower, wheel weights, chains, and more.
Joined
·
188 Posts
It did turn over. So at least the engine isn't seized. Shouldn't have to do much with the engine unless it's mosquito fogging. Looks like the right brake pedal is on the floor so I'm guessing some variator/brake work is needed. Hopefully it's nothing worse than a stuck sheave, a weak tensioner spring or worn belt. We're you trying to jump start the tractor with something? I'd check the ignition coil and voltage regulator as well. I've not had any of the fuel drain back problems on mine.

As easy as those side covers are to remove I'd just prep and paint them with a rattle can of JD Green.

I'd say you got a good deal. I've paid that for worse.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
83 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
It did turn over. So at least the engine isn't seized. Shouldn't have to do much with the engine unless it's mosquito fogging. Looks like the right brake pedal is on the floor so I'm guessing some variator/brake work is needed. Hopefully it's nothing worse than a stuck sheave, a weak tensioner spring or worn belt. We're you trying to jump start the tractor with something? I'd check the ignition coil and voltage regulator as well. I've not had any of the fuel drain back problems on mine.

As easy as those side covers are to remove I'd just prep and paint them with a rattle can of JD Green.

I'd say you got a good deal. I've paid that for worse.
I dont have the tractor yet. Im supposed to be picking it up next week. The owner said it ran but was hard to start. When he tried to start it the other day he said it didnt turn over i think. As far as the brake being down i asked an he said it was because he had the parking brake on.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
6,509 Posts
Good news then. Be aware that fuel pumps, wire harnesses and variator sheaves are either NLA from Deere, or more than twice what you paid for the tractor. Persistence brings rewards however. Keep us posted on this adventure. 👍
 

· Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Good news then. Be aware that fuel pumps, wire harnesses and variator sheaves are either NLA from Deere, or more than twice what you paid for the tractor. Persistence brings rewards however. Keep us posted on this adventure. 👍
I'm bringing mine back from a long slumber. See what you mean about fuel pumps. Genuine Kohler is either NLA or like $200+ for old stock. Looks like you can buy an offshore for like $15. Are they really bad? I also saw an aftermarket diaphragm kit for like $25. As long as the original housing is good I suppose that should work? I don't have spark yet so working on that first before I see if I need a fuel pump.

OP-did you get it home yet?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
6,509 Posts
You can test that pump just by cranking the engine. Fuel in tank, crank in short bursts, line out to carb in a jar. If it works use it until it dies. The small electric pumps are cheaper and very durable, just get the right output when you order/buy. Plenty of threads on this.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
83 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I'm bringing mine back from a long slumber. See what you mean about fuel pumps. Genuine Kohler is either NLA or like $200+ for old stock. Looks like you can buy an offshore for like $15. Are they really bad? I also saw an aftermarket diaphragm kit for like $25. As long as the original housing is good I suppose that should work? I don't have spark yet so working on that first before I see if I need a fuel pump.

OP-did you get it home yet?
Not yet. I scheduled with the owner to pick up Wednesday.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
83 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Picked up the machine today. Started tearing into it and getting everything cleaned, adjusted, and fixed so I can attempt to start it. Motor appears good. Internals sound quite when turning the flywheel back and forth. Took the head off and it was quite clean. You can see honing marks on the bore. Previous owner said the top end was looked at at one point. Not sure what that means and i don’t think he does either. Oil was clean on the dipstick.
Motor vehicle Gas Auto part Hood Automotive lighting

Automotive tire Rim Automotive engine gasket Gas Audio equipment

Automotive engine gasket Audio equipment Gas Auto part Font

Combat vehicle Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive design Automotive exterior

Liquid Circle Metal Ingredient Automotive wheel system

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Crankset Bicycle part Rim

Automotive tire Wood Audio equipment Table Gas
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top