What would be a fair price for a 212?

I'd start at $350-400 and go up or down based on closer inspection. No price listed in the ad?

tmac58star said:

I'd start at $350-400 and go up or down based on closer inspection. No price listed in the ad?

Click to expand...

Its listed at $500 but it will need some things. The guy tried to start it recently and it stopped turning over. Something electrical

I wouldn't go over $300 and try to get it for $250. You will most likely find problems that you cant see.
I have refurbished 4 tractors similar to that one, in that shape and before you know it you'll have another $1000 into it depending on the condition of the transaxle and engine. Just the things you mention will cost around $500 unless you have a 212-bone yard nearby. BTW, The variator speed control, if bad, is pretty expensive to buy a good used one .

JDF/ SwampFox said:

I wouldn't go over $300 and try to get it for $250. You will most likely find problems that you cant see.
I have refurbished 4 tractors similar to that one, in that shape and before you know it you'll have another $1000 into it depending on the condition of the transaxle and engine. Just the things you mention will cost around $500 unless you have a 212-bone yard nearby. BTW, The variator speed control, if bad, is pretty expensive to buy a good used one .

Click to expand...

Yeah that seems to be how any machine goes, there are always the hidden problems. I am waiting for a reply from the guy but I think we settled on $250

joegreen said:

Yeah that seems to be how any machine goes, there are always the hidden problems. I am waiting for a reply from the guy but I think we settled on $250

Click to expand...

I think that would be a good price for the unknown. Just be prepared and patient buying parts and you could end up with a nice ol 212. I really like gear drives like that, good luck and take pictures as you restore it.

I bought a 216 a year ago that needed some things. Key switch to fix charging, motor mounts, rear mount welded, new carb, variator belts, transaxle lube, oil change, head gasket and TLC. It was a winter project and it came with a good deck.. I paid $300 and sold it for $550.
Check it over good. The motor mounts can be a big issue if they aren't replaced. I had to repair the frame where the mount was so bad the engine mount was hammering on the frame.
Tom

Looks like a decent deck so that's a good start. Working on a 214 now. On the starting issue make sure you have a good ground from battery to starter solenoid. Key switch is also good to replace. One of the neat things about these is that almost all of the parts are still available from Deere. I think you did fine at $250. It is easy to spend more than they are worth, but if you intend to keep it a while, you can afford to make it reliable.

You can buy a genuine Kohler carb kit pretty cheap. I also bought a new "offshore" carb because my bowl had a pinhole in it. The whole carb was cheaper than a real Kohler bowl. So I have a spare carb if I need it, but the original body cleaned up really well in the Ultrasonic.

The fuel likes to drain back down on those models. Everyone I had took forever to start without help until I put an electric pump on them.

markdtn said:

You can buy a genuine Kohler carb kit pretty cheap. I also bought a new "offshore" carb because my bowl had a pinhole in it. The whole carb was cheaper than a real Kohler bowl.

Click to expand...

I found that to be true on my log splitter too. I needed a new BOWL GASKET because the old one broke when I took the bowl off to clean it. The gasket cost almost as much as a brand new carburetor so I bought the carburetor for like $14.

The paint looks decent other than the side panels. Those are the more common side panels, so you might be able to find a pair with nicer paint and have a decent looking tractor without having to do paint work.

The 210 leaks back pretty bad. I don’t run it as much as I should.

TempletonJDguy said:

The fuel likes to drain back down on those models. Everyone I had took forever to start without help until I put an electric pump on them.

Click to expand...

Outboard squeeze bulb between tank & carb. Bob's yer uncle!

It did turn over. So at least the engine isn't seized. Shouldn't have to do much with the engine unless it's mosquito fogging. Looks like the right brake pedal is on the floor so I'm guessing some variator/brake work is needed. Hopefully it's nothing worse than a stuck sheave, a weak tensioner spring or worn belt. We're you trying to jump start the tractor with something? I'd check the ignition coil and voltage regulator as well. I've not had any of the fuel drain back problems on mine.

As easy as those side covers are to remove I'd just prep and paint them with a rattle can of JD Green.

I'd say you got a good deal. I've paid that for worse.

jbsdeere said:

It did turn over. So at least the engine isn't seized. Shouldn't have to do much with the engine unless it's mosquito fogging. Looks like the right brake pedal is on the floor so I'm guessing some variator/brake work is needed. Hopefully it's nothing worse than a stuck sheave, a weak tensioner spring or worn belt. We're you trying to jump start the tractor with something? I'd check the ignition coil and voltage regulator as well. I've not had any of the fuel drain back problems on mine.

As easy as those side covers are to remove I'd just prep and paint them with a rattle can of JD Green.

I'd say you got a good deal. I've paid that for worse.

Click to expand...

I dont have the tractor yet. Im supposed to be picking it up next week. The owner said it ran but was hard to start. When he tried to start it the other day he said it didnt turn over i think. As far as the brake being down i asked an he said it was because he had the parking brake on.

Good news then. Be aware that fuel pumps, wire harnesses and variator sheaves are either NLA from Deere, or more than twice what you paid for the tractor. Persistence brings rewards however. Keep us posted on this adventure. 👍

tmac58star said:

Good news then. Be aware that fuel pumps, wire harnesses and variator sheaves are either NLA from Deere, or more than twice what you paid for the tractor. Persistence brings rewards however. Keep us posted on this adventure. 👍

Click to expand...

I'm bringing mine back from a long slumber. See what you mean about fuel pumps. Genuine Kohler is either NLA or like $200+ for old stock. Looks like you can buy an offshore for like $15. Are they really bad? I also saw an aftermarket diaphragm kit for like $25. As long as the original housing is good I suppose that should work? I don't have spark yet so working on that first before I see if I need a fuel pump.

OP-did you get it home yet?

You can test that pump just by cranking the engine. Fuel in tank, crank in short bursts, line out to carb in a jar. If it works use it until it dies. The small electric pumps are cheaper and very durable, just get the right output when you order/buy. Plenty of threads on this.

markdtn said:

I'm bringing mine back from a long slumber. See what you mean about fuel pumps. Genuine Kohler is either NLA or like $200+ for old stock. Looks like you can buy an offshore for like $15. Are they really bad? I also saw an aftermarket diaphragm kit for like $25. As long as the original housing is good I suppose that should work? I don't have spark yet so working on that first before I see if I need a fuel pump.

OP-did you get it home yet?

Click to expand...

Not yet. I scheduled with the owner to pick up Wednesday.