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Wheel weights, 2 bolts or 4?

1049 Views 14 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  flymo
I know 4 bolts per wheel will be stronger then 2 bolts per wheel, but are 4 necessary? I got the biggest carriage bolts that would fit and they are very big and I'm using 2 50lb weights per wheel. This is for a 400 series tractor but I also have a 318 that I will use them on.
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easier to mount w/four 2 from wheel to 1st weight
2 from 1st weight to 2nd weight, them got to be some long bolts ( threaded rod ?) just my .02$
Tim - I'm running the JD plastic weights on the rear wheels of my 318 for the winter. Each weight uses two bolts. Four bolts is not an option on my weights. But I think these weights are like 40# each. However, if you can use four bolts, I'd opt for that route rather than just two. Especially if you are going to run two 50# weights per wheel. I don't think two bolts is enough in your case. Just my opinion.

I just finished putting my weights on. I used 2 carriage bolts for the first 50 lb. cast iron weight & then two more carriage bolts for the second one. So I ended up with 4 carriage bolts on each wheel holding 100 lbs. each.
I have run one 50 pounder with just two 1/2 carriage bolts though.
Just my $.02

I run 2 50# on each wheel of my 430 and 140, I used 2 1/2" all thread rods per wheel. The way the cast iron wheels are shaped the first weight holds the weight of the second one. Joe
Hi everyone, I have a 2001 425 that the pto recently stopped working. I was wondering if anyone has a tech manual for it. I would like to do some testing on it, but don't want to fry anything. I have had help from Bill Broderick but he has a manual for the older wiring harness, without RIO and I Know that makes things quite a bit more complicated. I have checked the switches and they all seem to be working, but I wanted to check the circuit board to see what is and isn't working.

Thanks for the help

Adam, have you checked to see if you have 12 volts at the PTO (with the switch on, you in the seat, engine running)? That would be the first thing to try.

I have, and I have power to two sides of the of the switch, the blue wires that are doubled. If I turn the switch on, it drops to only having power to one side of the switch.
Adam, the manual has a series of diagnostic steps that are too long to re-type here.

I was less clear than I should have been in my previous question: do you have 12V at the PTO solenoid itself, with the PTO switch on, you in the seat, engine running? From the manual, it looks like a blue wire from the PTO switch goes to a connector that joins to a white wire at the solenoid. Remove that connector and check for 12V on the blue wire.

If you do have 12V to the solenoid when you should, I think it takes all the wiring out of the question, and you should be looking for an electrical problem in the solenoid itself, or a mechanical or hydraulic problem with the clutch. Check the solenoid resistance as the next step - it should be very close to 0, no more than 0.1 ohms.

Tim, there is no power getting to the solenoid when the switch is on and there is someone in the seat with the parking brake off. If I jump the switch across the two, double blue wire sets, it will kit the pto on, along with the light on the dash, it looks like it is back feeding the dash light when I do this.
I can send you the tech manual for the 4X5 series.
I tried to send you the manual, but your email address won't handle a file that large. My version will be unprotected, unlike the MTF version, which is about 3 times larger than mine, so I recommend mine. I know Gmail can handle this file and it's free to have an account. If you like, get a gmail account and I can send you the manual.
Got it, Adam. You really do need the manual - the PTO circuit diagnosis has 36 steps! If you are not able to get the whole thing from Terry, I can send you the individual pages, but won't be able to do so until this weekend.

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