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Wheel Weights and all

2385 Views 21 Replies 14 Participants Last post by  jdsteve
I Have the cast iron wheel weights and no bolts to bolt them on the wheels with. I assume they are galvanized or something but I do know they are carriage bolts. Does anyone know the dimensions of these bolts? I am not doubling up on the weights so it's just one. Also are washers suggested?

I will ask in here: do they make chains for the 430 model? I am sure they do but I read about people filling their tires and other stuff but are people really against chains? This is a heavy tractor so are weights and chains really necessary? This does have the locking differential, so is any of that really needed?

Just my questions for now. I was excited to put the snow blade on the tractor this weekend. I always had snow blowers for the 214 so this looks like it will do a killer job. I guess I have a couple more question come to think of it:

1. The blade has no shoes, is that a problem and should I put them on there?

2. There is no scraper edge, should I get a rubber one and put it on there?

Shew thats all of them for now

Thanks in advance for any question you can help with!


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Neil I have a 430 with lug tires and calcium chloride in tubes, and 250 lbs. of weight in the wheels, and a COZY Cab. A #47 blower on the front, and a 60 inch blade on the 3 point hitch, I have yet to need chains but I do have a set.
1. yes I would install shoes or a caster.

2. There should be a wear edge on the blade.
On our 214 with #43 blade I installed a piece of UHMW plastic for a wear edge.
How do you get the calcium chloride in the tires? Where do you buy that? Do you leave it in during the lawn cutting season?


Hi Neil , The bolts I have holding my wheel weights on are galvanized carriage bolts 1/2" by 7 1/2 or 8 " long and I do use washers . You can get chains for the 430 I have a set and they come in handy on ice . As far as filling your tires thats up to you. I think more people are against filling the tires than using chains . Ya just have to play with it till it feels good to you !
I would also suggest getting some sort of edge on that blade .I just have the steel edge and it works great . If you run it with no edge you will have to either replace the whole moldboard or find someone to cut and weld new steel in . I would also put the shoes on it they help with wear on the edge . Biggest thing have fun with it ! Jason
Hi Guys,
I have a 430, with a #47 blower , I think it is. I also have a home made cab, you can see in my pics. and it is quite heavy, made of all steel , frame and sheet metal. The portable seat weight is about 250 lbs. On occasion I seem not to have enough weight, can't get up minimal grades in the drive is packed snow or ice. So a blade I would think is even tougher with out chains. I'd like to get away from chains, due to the marks they leave.So Neil you want traction ya need chains, weight is a must too. use shoes, and I have a piece of rubber on the bottom of the blade thats on my 285, it scrapes very good and leaves no mark, and no wear on the metal blade.It's made from a conveyor belt that was waste after it was removed from it's initial use.
just my .02
I just put a set of cast iron weights on my 318, and per the dealer, the carriage bolts are 12" x 5-1/2". At the dealer they were $1.95 a piece........I went to a hardware store and bought bolts, nuts and washers for $1.83 - 4 sets.
Neil I use ware bars from a bose pu truck plow
found one with a chip in the corner so the guy
replaced it it was like new its qrtr inch thick
should last I dont use ware shoes. I olso have a
ware bar from a county grader havent tride using it yet have a good one LP

A new cutting edge for a blade will run you $60 from Deere. I purchased a set of shoes this summer, I think they were about $12. The cutting edge I checked on is a steel one, I'm not sure what the rubber ones go for.
Neil I had a local farm tire installer do the job of installing the calcium chloride. They have the equipment.
I meant to say 1/2" x 5-1/2"......I imagine you had that figured out by now.
Doggone it! What am I going to do with these big fat bolts?

I know we're not supposed to re-list eBay ads, so I'll just say that I noticed a really slick pair of custom-machined weights (95 pounds each) on "that auction site." Pick up only and I'm not from around there or...

I ordered the rubber squeegee and the parts manager told me the shoes wouldn't really get used. He said they are good for gravel but not pavement. Any truth to this?

I have to ask him about chains. I think that is the way to go.

Thanks for all your help guys! Have a Happy Turkey day!

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The manager was probably getting at is that you would want the scraper to remove the snow from a blacktop or concrete drive way or sidewalk.The shoes would get used more for a gravel drive as you would need to raise the attachment up so the scraper dosn't pick up the gravel.With a thrower it would throw the gravel and end up in the lawn.
Tim I picked up a set of wheel weights that almost look like hubcaps,don't know what kind of tractor they are off of.
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I don't have a gravel drive way or ever plan on going near one. Does that mean I don't need the shoes?


You would still need the shoes to prevent premature wear of the scraper blade,just adjust the shoes accordingly.
I don't use the shoes as I have a driveway that is mostly gravel but part concrete. The shoes don't allow me to get all the snow off the driveway and just dig into the gravel unless the gravel is frozen.

If you don't use the shoes, be careful because you can catch the blade on any cracks or loose pieces of blacktop/concrete and chip or pop out pieces of the driveway.
I've run w/o shoes (tried them last week-ended up taking them back off). I'm running on blacktop, basically flat, w/ CaCL filled (I'd go w/ Windshield Washer fluid if I was doing it again) Ag tires and concrete weights. Without shoes, just make sure to watch how far the cutting edge is worn, on the one blade I have they wore it about half way up the screw holes-it's got a welded on cutting edge now) Could have used chains sometimes when we ended up w/ icy conditions. Had my son blading snow Sat. and needed to stand my 200# on the hitch a couple of times to get him out of a 'tight' spot.
Working on my friends dedicated 425 Loader project and installing a air cooled kohler because it came without an engine. Removed radiator with internal cooler and was getting ready to install a standalone hydro oil cooler. My question is how much psi is traveling thru the cooler? Want to make sure the new cooler will hold up.
I looked in the manual and the only pressure I see is relative to the radiator circuit itself(12-17psi). I do see where the hydraulic return is sent through the cooler before dumping into the transmission sump, however, I see no mention of hydraulic pressure relating to the return /oil cooler circuit (only pressures relating to the charge/supply side of the system).

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