Wood Splitter For 318

3661 Views 15 Replies 11 Participants Last post by jdjake49, Nov 7, 2012

Nothing_runs_like_a_deere

Discussion Starter · May 31, 2005

Hi,
Does anybody know if deere made a wood splitter for the 318 or 140? Thank-You
Ryan

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kkortman112

· #2 · May 31, 2005

Hi Ryan. I don't think that JD technically made this for 318 tractors, the #4 was made from 1981-1983 and did have a mounting option for the older, closed rear frame 300 series tractors (300, 312, 314, 316 Kohler and 317). The parts book lists two drive belts, one for all but the 317 and another for the 317. With the right mount adapters and hydraulic pump kits this also fit 200-216 (and flat fender 110-112) tractors as well as the 400 tractor.

It would probably work on a 318 as long as the extended front bumper a 318 has doesn't hit anything on the splitter frame and if you could find the right length drive belt.

Kent

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Nothing_runs_like_a_deere

Discussion Starter · #3 · May 31, 2005

Hi,
Thanks Kent, one more question. Are these splitters hard to come by? Are they pretty expensive? Thank-You
Ryan

kkortman112

· #4 · May 31, 2005

Hi Ryan. I only know of about 5 of them and have never seen one sell. Biggest thing would be finding one with the right mounts and pump assembly for a 300 series, as all the ones I know about are either for a 400 or 110-216.

Kent

tsst1

· #5 · Jun 1, 2005

I saw one about 6 months ago sell on that E-site. I believe it went for over $1500.

Doug_gaede

· #6 · Jun 1, 2005

It would probably be easier and cheaper to buy an existing splitter with a bad engine, and make (or have made) a hydro pump that fits under the front PTO to drive it.

snomuncher

· #7 · Jun 5, 2005

Hi Ryan:

I have a JD 4 log splitter for my 316, which I purchased new back in 1991. It also fits 400 series tractors. It came from JD with plate adapters to accommodate the narrower 300 series frame, and uses a hydraulic pump driven by belt off the front PTO. There hasn't been anything I have not been able to split with it over many trees and many years. Hope that information helps and sorry, it's not for sale.

Cmkh3

· #8 · Jun 21, 2005

Actually why not mount one on the rear and use the same hydraulic pump as the hydraulic tiller uses off of the rear PTO?

Doug_gaede

· #9 · Jun 27, 2005

Trying to find a whole tiller and/or just the hydro pump would be about as hard as finding a splitter.

gtstang88

· #10 · Sep 18, 2005

Do you have to a hydro pump or could the front hyd hook ups power it?

Doug_gaede

· #11 · Sep 19, 2005

From what I've read on other threads there would be issues with lack of power from the integrated hydro pump, and lack of sufficient reservoir for the large ram.

jdjake49

· #12 · Oct 24, 2005

Ryan,
A number of years ago I built a log splitter and learned a number of important points.

First you need a two stage pump that can develop about 3000 PSI. The hydraulics on the 318 are only about 900 PSI. A pump from a tiller will probably also be a lower pressure pump.

Second the pumps are normally direct coupled to an engine. Belts will slip on a high pressure pump.

Third the standard splitter cylinder is a 4 X 24 which will require about a 3 gallon tank for supply and cooling the oil.

After building my own, I would recommend just spend $1,000 and buy a brand new 20 ton splitter on trailer wheels with a 5 HP Honda engine from Northern Tool. Paint it green just to confuse people.

I am older and a little smarter now.

George of Buford

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bubba1209

· #13 · Nov 4, 2012

I have a 345 that will shut down while mowing, usually after going over a bump. It will start right up as long as your foot is on the brake or the parking brake is set. As soon as you turn on the pto or let off the brake, it dies. It is almost like the pto safety thinks you are not in the seat or you are trying to get off the mower without the parking brake set. I have tried bypassing the safety switch on the seat just to see if that changes anything, it didn't so that was hooked back up. Has anyone run into something like this before? I am not too familiar with later model machines, any help would be appreciated. Mike

vbosch

· #14 · Nov 5, 2012

Sounds like your reverse and or brake switch is stuck in the pedal depressed position. The switch itself may be hard to find, last time I found the switch between the frame and the footrest sheet metal on the brake side of the tractor. See if one of those switches has the button stuck in.

woodpecker41

· #15 · Nov 5, 2012

Could also be the seat switch if the bump is unloading your weight enough for the tractor to think you fell off. It is one of the safety switches I am sure. Roger

jdjake49

· #16 · Nov 7, 2012

Mike,

Your problem is the seat switch. When you start the tractor, the brake switch provides battery to the ignition circuit. If you release the brake, the seat switch is providing battery as long as you are in the seat. Turning the PTO on requires the seat switch to be operated or the engine dies.

SOOO....... A bad seat switch is my SWAG.

George of Buford

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