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Hi Ryan. I don't think that JD technically made this for 318 tractors, the #4 was made from 1981-1983 and did have a mounting option for the older, closed rear frame 300 series tractors (300, 312, 314, 316 Kohler and 317). The parts book lists two drive belts, one for all but the 317 and another for the 317. With the right mount adapters and hydraulic pump kits this also fit 200-216 (and flat fender 110-112) tractors as well as the 400 tractor.



It would probably work on a 318 as long as the extended front bumper a 318 has doesn't hit anything on the splitter frame and if you could find the right length drive belt.

Kent
 

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Hi Ryan. I only know of about 5 of them and have never seen one sell. Biggest thing would be finding one with the right mounts and pump assembly for a 300 series, as all the ones I know about are either for a 400 or 110-216.

Kent
 

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Hi Ryan:

I have a JD 4 log splitter for my 316, which I purchased new back in 1991. It also fits 400 series tractors. It came from JD with plate adapters to accommodate the narrower 300 series frame, and uses a hydraulic pump driven by belt off the front PTO. There hasn't been anything I have not been able to split with it over many trees and many years. Hope that information helps and sorry, it's not for sale.
 

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Ryan,
A number of years ago I built a log splitter and learned a number of important points.

First you need a two stage pump that can develop about 3000 PSI. The hydraulics on the 318 are only about 900 PSI. A pump from a tiller will probably also be a lower pressure pump.

Second the pumps are normally direct coupled to an engine. Belts will slip on a high pressure pump.

Third the standard splitter cylinder is a 4 X 24 which will require about a 3 gallon tank for supply and cooling the oil.

After building my own, I would recommend just spend $1,000 and buy a brand new 20 ton splitter on trailer wheels with a 5 HP Honda engine from Northern Tool. Paint it green just to confuse people.

I am older and a little smarter now.

George of Buford
 

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I have a 345 that will shut down while mowing, usually after going over a bump. It will start right up as long as your foot is on the brake or the parking brake is set. As soon as you turn on the pto or let off the brake, it dies. It is almost like the pto safety thinks you are not in the seat or you are trying to get off the mower without the parking brake set. I have tried bypassing the safety switch on the seat just to see if that changes anything, it didn't so that was hooked back up. Has anyone run into something like this before? I am not too familiar with later model machines, any help would be appreciated. Mike
 

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Sounds like your reverse and or brake switch is stuck in the pedal depressed position. The switch itself may be hard to find, last time I found the switch between the frame and the footrest sheet metal on the brake side of the tractor. See if one of those switches has the button stuck in.
 

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Mike,

Your problem is the seat switch. When you start the tractor, the brake switch provides battery to the ignition circuit. If you release the brake, the seat switch is providing battery as long as you are in the seat. Turning the PTO on requires the seat switch to be operated or the engine dies.

SOOO....... A bad seat switch is my SWAG.

George of Buford
 
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