[abrizgis]

Last week I sucessfully removed the driveshaft pulley from the rear of the engine using this 3-jaw puller on loan from Autozone.

I had to reverse the jaws of the puller so that the small hooks were used in the long position, then hooked it up with the center bolt installed to push against.

I applied a good amount of tension and it didn't budge, so I soaked with PB Blaster and heated up the pulley with my propane torch. Still nothing.

I applied more tension to puller and started LIGHTLY tapping perimeter with a small metal hammer, on the 6-7th tap if popped right off.

Surprised to find no keyway on this shaft, just taper. I guess the press fit is enough to transmit all the torque. Couple pics of aftermath.

Looks like I found one of the main sources of all the oil on the belly!

 

[abrizgis]

Next step was to remove gear train and all aluminum housings. I forgot to snap some pictures along the way, but here are a couple after pics.

This process is pretty straightforward, just remove cap screws holding on gears/camshaft and remove. Pic of camshaft

Next up, piston / crankshaft removal and bore measurement.

 

[abrizgis]

To remove pistons I first carefully documented which pistons/connecting rods/caps go in which cylinders.

Then i used steel wool / super fine emery cloth to remove carbon ridge at top of cylinder. I intended to use a ridge reamer for this, but the one available for loan is too big for these cylinders (~2.6"). Lyle makes on that would fit, but its like $70 so I decided to just use steel wool / emery. I rotated the crank until the piston was near top of stroke, but the carbon ring was still visible and used the piston head to ensure I minimized cleaning of cylinder walls.

This worked really well for the very small amount of carbon on the wall. I'm going to have the cylinders honed and expect this to clean up the cylinder near the top.

After this, I removed cap screws from connecting rods and pushed cylinders out using a wood dowel, being very careful to not allow connecting rod to touch cylinder wall.

Inspection of pistons / rings showed nothing to be broken or distressed. No seized or blown rings and all bearings tight.

Crankshaft removed next by removing the bearing cap screws and pulling out from the bottom.

Next i measured all three cylinder bore diameters using my friends bore gauge.

New spec for this engine per the manual is 2.599" - 2.600" with a wear limit of 2.606".

All three cylinders measured 2.6015", well within wear limits. With these results, no plans to re-bore. Just new rings.

This is a seriously durable engine, only 0.0015" of wear after 1000hrs!

 

[abrizgis]

Next up was disassembling the head in prep for hot tank cleaning.

Removed intake and exhaust manifolds.

Removed valves using my Lisle spring compressor.

Removed valve seals using small vise grip pliars and slowly rotating until they came off.

 

[abrizgis]

Next up is pressure wash of block. Nothing special about this. Covered all non painted surfaces with WD-40 to minimize rust while waiting for hot tank.

 

[abrizgis]

Last accomplishment of the weekend was cleaning, wire brushing, and painting a lot of the little components. It was 70deg and sunny, so I figured I'd get outside and get this done.

 

[dieselshadow]

Really really great pics. Thanks for posting them and your progress. I'm enjoying it. :thumb:

 

[jeff_kluewer]

Keep up the good work. :good:

 

[abrizgis]

Got the governor and injector pump housing disassembled all the aluminum pieces stripped clean of paint. Thinking about leaving them all clean at re-assembly instead of painting/powder coating.

Had some problems removing the screw that retains the injector camshaft in. Its a phillips head screw and ended up stripping it out. I had to pull off the timing gear and remove screw with vise grips. After stripping the head I got some metal shavings down in the bearings so I replaced both of them and cleaned everything carefully before re-assembly.

Mid way through re-assembly.

 

[abrizgis]

Discovered something interested when posting these pictures. Here is a picture of the injector cam gear before I disassembled

Notice the shaft sticking out from the gear by ~ 1/4".

Here are the assembly instructions from CTM3 (Yanmar tech manual)

Third step in assembly says to press gear until gear face is flush with end of shaft.

Which one is right?

I guess I just put all the gears back on and see what it takes to align them.

Any suggestions?

Thanks

 

[dieselshadow]

I would go with the manual. That being said, the depth of that gear being pressed on will effect timing. Since the gear is helical cut, it'll spin the cam one way or the other in relation to the other gear timing. The more it's pressed on, the cam will be turned more counterclockwise. I would think this is a critical adjustment because it looks like there is no other means to adjust timing.

 

[abrizgis]

Good call Jason. I think you can adjust timing by shimming the injection pump. In the block gasket kit I bought it has all different size shims.

Do you think it was shimmed to account for the gear position on the shaft from the factory?

 

[shivelyt]

This is a great thread. Keep the pics coming.
Tom

 

[dieselshadow]

Good call Jason. I think you can adjust timing by shimming the injection pump. In the block gasket kit I bought it has all different size shims.

Do you think it was shimmed to account for the gear position on the shaft from the factory?

It's very possible. I don't know what it takes to set the timing on that engine, but typically it involves a dial indicator and a special plunger that replaces the first delivery valve on the pump.

What does the manual say about setting the timing? I'd be real interested to see how it's supposed to be done.

 

[chuckv]

Jason,

As you suspected, shims are used to adjust for any factory variation in gear position, and timing is expected to remain constant over the life of the engine (barring component replacement...)

However, the CTM3 does give some information on checking and adjusting the timing for both early 430 engines (15 degrees BTDC) and the later 430 and all 330/332 engines which are 13 degrees BTDC. Here is an excerpt from the CTM3...

View attachment injection timing excerpt for 3TN66 & 3TNA72 Yanmar diesel engines from CTM3.pdf

Chuck

 

[abrizgis]

Dropped the block/head off with machine shop for hot tank clean and hone. While they're away, I got the hydraulic system all put back together with my new line from Ron at AuxHyd.

Before filling trans with oil, I changed the front and rear shaft seals and the suction hose. To change the front seal I removed the charge pump and popped it out with screwdriver. Along the way I think I found a major source of oil leak. The o-ring that seals the pump to housing was really disintegrated and there was some sort of sealer around the edge. I think a previous owner had removed pump to change shaft seal, and didn't have the o-ring. I think they re-used it and added some sealant, which didn't do the trick.

Anyway, all parts cleaned, lubed, and o-ring/seal replaced.

Changed the rear seal by drilling small hole in old seal, threading in a wood screw, and pulling out with small crow bar. This is my 3rd time with the method and really works the best and is the most reliable. Just have to be careful not to drill into bearing or score the shaft.

Finally, got the governor all re-assembled.

Haven't decided what to do about cam gear yet. I think I may default to the manual, check the timing per procedure and shim pump if necessary.

May be a while before I make much more progress, the boss isn't loving all my garage time

 

[dieselshadow]

You're doing a sweet job. :drinks: I'm really enjoying your thread. :thumb:

 

[abrizgis]

I was bumming around eBay this morning and I came across two different fuel injector cams from the 3TN66 engine for sale.

Both have the gear inserted as mine was when I disassembled.

Starting to think this is how its supposed to be.

 

[nick4030]

Cool thread! Plan is to tear mine down in the spring.

 

[abrizgis]

Earlier this week I picked up the block and head from my machine shop. I had the core plugs removed, cylinders honed, and both parts hot tank cleaned. I painted the outside and coated all other surfaces with engine oil for rebuild.