Timing. 20 thousands isn’t good enough if it doesn’t run right. Also check your governor adjustment. YouTube timing points, taryl probably has a good one, isavetractors should too. Governor, same thing.

 

I’ve not installed points on tractor before this problem. i will watch videos, bur surprised gap is that critical…not questioning, just trying to leal more. Thanks

 

.020" +or- .001". If that's not close enough you've got more than one problem.

 

Oops…learn more
thanks

 

I think I save tractors is going out. Not sure if the site's still got their info up or not.

 

I’ve had points at .012 and .030. I think it is critical. It determines the exact time the engine fires. If your problem is erratic it’s not points. If it runs poorly and it’s consistent it won’t hurt to check. All your doing is checking continuity with the timing mark on your flywheel through the little window. Not the tdc mark, the mark that’s like 17 degrees before tdc. Highlight it with a paint pen. If you can’t find it use a screwdriver carefully to find the piston tdc when both valves are closed. If it’s not at tdc rotate a full rotation and look again. You’ll see the mark. Then back up 17 degrees you’ll see another mark. When that mark aligns with the mark on the case the points should open. Exactly then. If it’s off adjust it till you get it exact. Ignore the gap. Once you have perfect you can check for s&g’s but that’s how you do it.

 

Interesting...thanks for sharing. I bought a leak down tester and will use it after re-setting the points. It feels like a timing/ignition issue. Setting gaps not so easy in 314 chassis, bit will give it my best.

 

Interesting...thanks for sharing. I bought a leak down tester and will use it after re-setting the points. It feels like a timing/ignition issue. Setting gaps not so easy in 314 chassis, bit will give it my best.

Has anyone cut a larger "window" to aid in viewing timing mark? Thought occured to me may make it easier. Thanks/

 

Interesting...thanks for sharing. I bought a leak down tester and will use it after re-setting the points. It feels like a timing/ignition issue. Setting gaps not so easy in 314 chassis, bit will give it my best.


Has anyone cut a larger "window" to aid in viewing timing mark? Thought occured to me may make it easier. Thanks/
Good news is i can find both marks

 

Worked on tractor setting points with a meter (measures about .0185), no change In running.
Performed leak down test, at 75 psi input pressure has a 20% leak rate, with no air leak noise in carb or muffler - seems all rings (pulled dipstick and can hear air leaking). No suprise since it uses oil.

To eliminate bad fuel, ran a hose from fuel pump input to a gas can. I also removed hose from the carb to purge old gas from the pump. But, when cranking engine over with the starter, every once in a while fuel would blow back into the fuel can. Fuel always looks airated in the clear fuel filter. Pulled pump apart and tried to clean the pump check valves. I replaced fuel pump diaphragm a few months ago, and reassembled. No change. But noe sure what pump does when running.

question now is could the high crankcase pressure from blow-by cause issues with the pump diaphragm…like keep it from pumping?

when running and you jab the throttle engine stumples…seems almost like starving for fuel. Plug is noe wet when its pulled.

looking for thoughts on fuel pump possible cause and impact on pump operation due to high crankcase pressure. Thanks in advance.

 

when running and you jab the throttle engine stumples…seems almost like starving for fuel. Plug is noe wet when its pulled.

These small engines do not have an accelerator pump like the old cars and trucks. So that stumble is norm as fuel mixture changes to match RPM and throttle plate opening.

 

You could always try an electric pump. They are fairly cheap.

 

when I am able to get it run at a higher RPM it will not smooth out…it hunts and often backfires. When i try to turn mower deck pto on, it stall. Under any load, it won’t run. If i return it toidle, it will run smooth.

Agree, thinking electric fuel pump would be a good test, any idea what pressure it should be to keep carb from flooding?

i also found one way check valves on Amazon, may try installing one in the Input hose To keep fuel from being pushed back to the tank.

thinking back on running issues over the past year, im thinking were on to something…

thanks

 

3 psi on pump. The cheap ones are more pressure but for a test I don’t think it will make a huge difference. But I’d shoot for 3. Some will overpower some won’t. There’s not much qc in these carbs. It seems like everyone is different