[shadetree]

Tygon fuel line for in the tank is about the same cost as regular line. I've seen where several have been using it for a couple of years. The next one I do I plan to use Tygon the whole way.


Be sure to buy NEW bushings for where it enters the fuel tank. You will not be able to keep the old one from leaking. Buy 3/16 inch clamps for the line, I noticed yours did not have them (cause the PO did not know how to install them). Take a look at this for ideas or do your own search.

http://www.wfmachines.com/forums/sh...p/29366-when-to-replace-fuel-lines-1986-316-onan-parts-list?highlight=fuel+line

 

[mikeduwe]

Main engines on nuclear subs are rubber mounted.

Probably not using sporting goods though..

 

[woodpecker41]

Shady I used to be a supporter of Tygon but am finding now that some of it is more than 5 years old the Tygon gets old and brittle like hard plastic. Then leaks and breaks happen. I am going back to good rubber fuel hose designed for todays ethanol fuels. I have been buying mine from JD as I know what I am getting from them. Roger

 

[shadetree]

Thanks Roger,
I don't have any that old. So far I have just used it on the reserve lines inside the tank. I really like the thin wall for that. For the next one I had planned to use the tygon all the way. I probably need to rethink that, I was looking forward to watching the gas move through the line and it would show what was going on. I try real hard to avoid ethanol.

 

[steve770]

Would anyone happen to know the outer diameter of the exhaust pipes the lead to the predator muffler?
I was thinking of trying a flexible exhaust coupling to re position the muffler.


(Normally I would just use the digital caliper I bought but I cannot find it... disorganization is the reason I have 5 staple guns!)

 

[bloodrunsgreen]

I brought the fuel line from NAPA, made for today,s fuels, Made sure that it could handle pure ethanol to pure gas (recreational fuel) and it could handle high fuel pressure pumps. It is layered and reinforced, far cheaper in price that what JD dealer wanted for standard fuel line.

 

[steve770]

Since the predator muffler doesn't want to fit as is, I cut the ends off and took an angle out of the pipes leading from the heads to the muffler. It looks like it will fit when welded up.
My question is does anyone think it would be worth adding an additional baffle inside the muffler? Right now it has a single disc with multiple holes, one for each cylinder. I'm considering adding another disc simply because I prefer it a little quieter and it's already open.

 

[shadetree]

Would it be possible to post pictures of what you found?

Can the width be shortened?

 

[pidjones]

I'd be cautious in changing exhaust back pressure. Most engines are tuned for best operation from intake filter to exhaust. At least this isn't a high-reving engine where it really becomes important. Since I understand that the Predator is a Honda clone, perhaps checking the exhaust on a Honda would give ideas. I have heard that Hondas are some of the quieter engines.

 

[shadetree]

I have no idea of judging back pressure How do you tell and what do you do about it?

 

[steve770]

I hope to weld the ends closed with 5" round metal discs. This would be my chance to add an extra baffle on each side.

 

[shadetree]

Thanks I wondered what was in there. The second picture shows that side going through the baffles meeting the other side in the middle and both mix and exit by the exhaust pipe?

I know nothing of the effect of an additional baffle with maybe additional holes. Seems one side already has a pressure difference with the absence of the exhaust pipe. I really wish 'they' could find the rest of "JD140-H3 Vanguard 23HP repower - I'm gonna do it. - Thread is missing most posts" Greno had some interesting comments with his muffler build not to mention many other problems he solved.
Keep up the good work and please continue to post pictures as you progress.

 

[shadetree]

steve770

Have you gotten your muffler welded back up? Did you buy the 5" disc or make them?

 

[steve770]

The 5" metal discs I ordered were too thick. I don't have the skill with a MIG welder to try and use them so I'm going to wait until after Christmas and cut out 5" circles from a piece of 18 gauge or so.

 

[shadetree]

Thanks for the update.

 

[rustyknuckles]

Mufflers are the biggest problem with repowers in 318s and 420s. With a Vanguard, Small Engine Warehouse has one they designed, but with a Predator or a Kohler, we are pretty much on our own. Clearly there is a huge worldwide demand waiting to be filled!

 

[mikeduwe]

The cost to tool up a specific muffler surpasses the couple of hundred they may sell in a year. That's why no one has done it yet.

 

[rustyknuckles]

A few WFM members have on occasion kitted up and sold "nice to have" parts. The 3-point hitch for the hydraulic tiller comes to mind. So I keep hoping/fantasizing that somebody will do it for mufflers!

 

[WJH]

Do you guys own a metal cutting lathe? I got one... What is "too thick"? You mean the diameter of the disk? Or thickness of the disk? Either way, I could turn down the outside diameter. I also have a TIG welder, can weld steel.

 

[steve770]

I finally had a chance to work on the muffler again.
This is how I cut the ends off. It doesn't make for an even/flat cut so I used a hand grinder to take down the high spots.

Lowes and Home Depot sell sheet metal. I traced the ends of the muffler and cut them out.

This is how it sits on the muffler waiting to be welded. (not sure why the picture is sideways?)

I also wanted to try to add a baffle on each side. This is one of them being test fit. I haven't drilled the holes yet.

I'm hoping to try my new mig welder tomorrow. I've never used a mig welder and the last time I used a stick was in the 80's!
Should be fun.