[WJH]

Yes, didn't you say you had a lathe etc.?

You need spacers to replace those washers?


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[shadetree]

The washers are still working so far but I'm sure custom spacers would be much better.

 

[WJH]

The washers are still working so far but I'm sure custom spacers would be much better.

I have a length of .5" diameter aluminum 6061 rod that I can whip out 4 spacers quickly. Whats the length and inside dimensions needed, or better yet, the size of the bolt that needs a clearance fit?


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[shadetree]

Thanks Bill, I'm going to stay with the washers for now (they're paid for) and I used 12 sets. Are you open for things like 1" drive shaft adapter to 1 7/16" PTO? Just an example as I don't need one right yet.

 

[WJH]

Thanks Bill, I'm going to stay with the washers for now (they're paid for) and I used 12 sets. Are you open for things like 1" drive shaft adapter to 1 7/16" PTO? Just an example as I don't need one right yet.

Need drawings, was only going to ask for postage to send you the spacers


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[steve770]

I think I've hit a wall at this point. After getting the wiring all straightened out and installing the battery tray I thought I'd give it another test run. It started right up and that's about all that went right! The PTO did not pull in, not a big deal because I didn't expect it to. I'll have to play with that some more. The problem was with the hydraulics. The lever to raise/lower the deck did not work. No matter what I did there was no movement. Worse than that was finding out it was loose or worn enough to touch the drive shaft. So, when I moved it a little too far I could see sparks...grrrrrrr.
I'm going to push it to the back burner for a while, at least until this heat breaks. I need accept the fact that everything may have to come apart again and you shouldn't do that when you are frustrated.

 

[shadetree]

Hey Steve

I am having one of my dense as dirt days. "The lever to raise/lower the deck did not work. No matter what I did there was no movement. Worse than that was finding out it was loose or worn enough to touch the drive shaft. So, when I moved it a little too far I could see sparks...grrrrrrr." I'm sorry I can't quite get this.

I had the lever problem once and found the screw thing on the back was turned all the way. Can't get in my mind what would touch the drive shaft???

Being able to walk away when frustrated is a very good trait, I usually break something.

 

[shadetree]

Steve, I've been thinking about this for a while and...

"The lever to raise/lower the deck did not work." Does this mean the lever did not move or that when the lever moved the deck didn't raise or lower?
"So, when I moved it a little too far I could see sparks" What did you move too far and where did you see the sparks?

Well the shade should have moved to where I can plug the welder in. I'm going to add to the heat and practice a little.

 

[imcharmed]

I'm working my mind around installing the predator vtwin in my 1983 JD 420. I bought the engine and have read through this thread a few times. I understand most of it thanks to everyone. I started the predator outside in the back of my truck. I live in a rural area and I thought someone would call the fire dept on me it smoked so bad and so long( about half an hour ). Billows of smoke ! After about 30 mins the smoke went away. It ran fine the whole time. I have about 4 hrs break in and it seems fine. Anybody else have this ?

 

[pidjones]

I'd check the oil closely. My 8500watt generator (13 HP Predator, I think) didn''t smoke a bit.

 

[imcharmed]

Thanks. I did and the level did not change and the oil was clear. It seems to run ok but was just wondering if any one else had this go on ?

 

[shadetree]

I had one, that after the three hour break in and two hours cutting grass WOT did fine no sign of smoke then the next time it was started total smoke. HF took it back and sent me another one, I added the extended warranty and haven't noticed a speck of smoke from this one.

The extended warranty can give you some piece of mind. The smoke on startup could have been it got turned upside down during shipment but I wouldn't think it would have lasted 30 minutes. Like all these engines... It may be fine --- or not.

 

[imcharmed]

Thank you, shadetree.

 

[shadetree]

There will be no pictures so maybe it didn't happen but I bolted the cut down muffler back to the Predator and put the hood over it. As you may remember my measurement skills aren't... so the fit is way snug so much so that the tab on the side panels won't slide between the muffler and the hood support arms. For now I'll enjoy the hood. Latter the grinder should be able to find some room.

Special thanks to Steve770 for giving me the courage to even attempt this. And for the rest of you that have given me so much help along the way. I really like my welder even when it doesn't do all the welding by its self. I'll claim all the warts (wish there weren't so many). Who knows I may even find the puddle and learn to put down dimes?

 

[WJH]

There will be no pictures so maybe it didn't happen but I bolted the cut down muffler back to the Predator and put the hood over it. As you may remember my measurement skills aren't... so the fit is way snug so much so that the tab on the side panels won't slide between the muffler and the hood support arms. For now I'll enjoy the hood. Latter the grinder should be able to find some room.

Special thanks to Steve770 for giving me the courage to even attempt this. And for the rest of you that have given me so much help along the way. I really like my welder even when it doesn't do all the welding by its self. I'll claim all the warts (wish there weren't so many). Who knows I may even find the puddle and learn to put down dimes?

Your next project should be a go-cart with the 6.5hp predator with governor removed. Weld up your own frame, you'll be the best welder on this forum.


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[shadetree]

Well just in time for topless Sunday... No I will not be and neither will my second 318 Predator repower with cut down muffler. This one I made a tad narrower and have room to slide the side panels between the muffler and the hood support. The right side (with the exhaust pipe) fit fine. The left side exposed a problem I had not expected. The oil cooler hits the panel. Does anyone know what type and size hose this oil cooler uses?

You will also notice there are no pictures of the cut down muffler. I did a somewhat better job of the cut down but the re-connection (welding) is not ready for prime time.

Anyone that has replaced their Predator muffler with something else and still has it laying around I would like to have it. I have found that I can not practice welding a muffler on flat metal. The muffler acts very different or it seems to for me. I believe the air inside heats up and blows the weld away. This from someone who still hasn't found the puddle so your results may vary???

 

[WJH]

Well just in time for topless Sunday... No I will not be and neither will my second 318 Predator repower with cut down muffler. This one I made a tad narrower and have room to slide the side panels between the muffler and the hood support. The right side (with the exhaust pipe) fit fine. The left side exposed a problem I had not expected. The oil cooler hits the panel. Does anyone know what type and size hose this oil cooler uses?

You will also notice there are no pictures of the cut down muffler. I did a somewhat better job of the cut down but the re-connection (welding) is not ready for prime time.

Anyone that has replaced their Predator muffler with something else and still has it laying around I would like to have it. I have found that I can not practice welding a muffler on flat metal. The muffler acts very different or it seems to for me. I believe the air inside heats up and blows the weld away. This from someone who still hasn't found the puddle so your results may vary???

I'd Tig the muffler and use stainless, and would purge the inside with Argon. Keep in mind, the only reason I am so biased towards TIG is because it is the only process I am decent enough at to utilize. I find it the easiest, and I know thats the opposite of everyone else. If no purge gas, make a vent hole


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[shadetree]

Hey Bill
With the trouble I am having trying to learn to weld I have marked tig off. My welder would require a $350 tig kit plus tank and gas and would still be DC only. I have managed to plug the holes and don't expect the ends to come apart. When I am able to move the oil cooler so the side panel will fit most of the repulsive globs will be hidden. What can be seen through the grill, exhaust port, and with the hood open I will just have to live with. Should I ever master mig and I really want to be able to do a respectable looking muffler I may reconsider tig. Until then I need to find stock to practice on.

 

[WJH]

You only need A/C for Aluminum and I believe Magnesium. Mine is DC only.
Yep, practice is the key

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[shadetree]

Took another look at the left panel and found if you hold it correctly during installation it fits over the oil cooler with no problem. So more of the warts are no longer visible.