Doing a search in partscatalog/deere.com, R359FN is used in nearly 50 different tractors and installation may be different model to model. So, what tractor are you working on? Bob

 

Hi Bob, it is a 1974 square fender 110

 

Ah, makes thongs easier! Now, bear in mind I've never owned or worked on a 110 and all I can offer is info from partscatalog.deere.com! Here's what I found:

Having never worked on one, I can only guess what goes on inside that lever, so thinking:
Pin 2 is threaded and attaches to the end of latch 6. Pushing pin 2 lowers latch 6 from ?? and allows lever to move. IF this is the way it works, Grip 1 needs to be pulled of of tube 5, pin 2 unscrewed from latch 6 and spring 3 can be removed!
Approaching 50 years old there's a VERY good chance the the threads in pin 2 & latch 6 are severely rusted together! Use LOTS of penetrating oil, wait a day, more penetrating oil. Heat may not be a bad idea either.

If anyone has experience in this area, comments would be GREATLY appreciated!!!!! Bob

 

Thanks Bob, I have taken it apart with out issues, but what I don't see is how to get the spring into the slot that #6 rides in as it smaller than the spring.

 

I would think (??) the spring sits in top of washer #4 with #6 sticking up trough washer #4. #6 will somehow need to be held up, spring compressed, and pin 2 screwed on.
Is pin #2 & latch #6 threaded? Bob

 

Bob, I have resolved my problem!!! The spring is inserted through a hole in the lower part of #7, and then #7 is put back on the variator shaft to hold the spring in place, then the rest of the parts go on.
My problem was that I never noticed the hole in the bottom of #7 and thought that the spring went into the slot. Now for the other one, it should be simple after this. Thanks for your help.

 

Not sure how much help I really was, but probably just another set of eyes looking at possibilities! Bottom line, you got it! Great news, Bob

 

I really don't understand how it is working by putting the spring in the bottom. The all important washer #4 goes in from the top. It should rest on some indentations inside the lever and serves as the seat for the spring at the proper height. If only the spring and washer need to be replaced, basically all one has to do is unscrew the push button, remove spring, and washer if damaged, and replace with new parts in the opposite order.
Bob may not have ever done one, but I agree with his thoughts on how it goes together. The only thing I would have added would be to heat the push button before attempting to unscrew it. Rust or factory applied thread locking compound can hold tight enough to twist the threaded portion of #6 right off. The manual lift lever button spring works the same way.
Not trying to be critical stickman. If you got it working, I'm proud of you too!

tommyhawk

 

Old thread, but still relevant. I'm have my lever off and replacing the spring tomorrow. The drawing is different for the 200 series which I have and there is no washer and the spring goes in hub #7 (#6 in the 200 series diagram) and pushes against the bottom of latch rod #6 (#4 in the 200 series diagram). If this is a 110 I bet someone put a 200 series lever on it.