[KB]

On the 200 series amd closed frame 300 series ive never seen one not fixed with new lines, screw clamps, and worst case a $30 fuel pump. I fixed up a 317 last spring that had long cranks after sitting and a bad pump. After that it developed hydraulic issues so i parked it. Its been sitting atleast 2 months amd i wanted to move it. It fired in 2-3 cranks, ready to kill the choke. Most trackrs that drain back need to stay 1/2 choked or goosed a couple times as air bubbles work through.

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[KB]

Fuel line on the tractor was a thin wall shiny tubing like vinyl. It was very brittle and I needed to cut it with a utility knife to remove it from the fuel pump and carb. Replaced with rubber fuel line. Farm and Fleet did not have clear fuel line. Parts manual called out 10' length cut from bulk hose. 10' is about 3' to much. ... Gabby

I hate clear line. I will use yellow tygon if i need the thin wall. Ill also use it from fuel pump to carb on snowmobiles. It collapses under vacuum. Dont use it tank to pump or as a vacuum line to a pulse pump. Black line does much better. That alone will decrease crank time in the applications listed. Ive also used a 5 second blow in the filler to prime a new system. It requires less of a puff then a ballon. As mentioned domt do it full. The tank flexes out around 0.2psi. When that releases it will blow gas back when you stop.

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[KB]

My self threading nuts came off fine as far as i recall.

The tech manual should be the same for all models.

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If he has an early issue it wont have updared wiring diagrams and clutch/brake systems.

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[KB]

I have electronic version of

John Deere Service Manual
200, 210, 212, and 214
Lawn and Garden Tractors
SM-2105-(Oct-76)
​

It does not have have full electrical schematic but does have graphic sketches of of the electrical circuits. It also appears to have detailed info on clutch/variator operation. But I say again the 216 is not included and I have to assume these areas on 216 are same/similar to other models that are covered. I have not had an issue with the manual yet. I have always found one of the key sections of any manual is the "Principles of Operation" section which explains how something is designed to function. I can generally figure it out from there.

That should work for most things, especially since you can think about what they say. It may not have info on seat switches. And probably doesnt cover pedal layout and useage rev3. Atleast you can look at linkages and figure it out.

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[KB]

Seat switch is only required for pto operation and to take out of nuetral on the 300 series. Not sure if it is related to nuetral on the 200 series.

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[KB]

Gabby sounds like your making great progress.

Rather then mount the broom again why not just load it with the loader ?

For spark check that you get 12v to the + on the coil. If you do then its coil points or plug related. If no power its time to check further back in the harness.

I think the run signal is through the pto switch, but i dont have a diagram. Thats easy to swap with a known good one. You dont even need to mount it.

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[KB]

I have not mounted or dismounted a 44 so i cant help there.

Without a full weight package dont even try. I bought a 47 chest freezer and used the sellers 44/318 to load it. A weightbox full of concrete, 75 lb wheel weights and 175 operator and it picked up the back. I climbed on to the weightbox for another 150 and it did it but it was light in the rear. I have 600lbs plug me on my 420 and im still careful. Only lifting as high as needed on something like that.

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[KB]

Positive to negitive on the coil should be 3.5ohms i believe.

I think either terminal to plug wire should be in the 15,000-25,000ohm or 15-25kohm depending on your display.

Ill check a kohler manual in a minute.

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[KB]

By factory specs you melt the posts like rivets. Pesonally i go light on bathtub silicone caulk so i can remove it. If it gets loose and rattles its enough shock absorber to not crack or tickle your ears.

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[KB]

They would use something like a soldering iron to mushroom the ends of the little posts.

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[KB]

I have often considered drilling those six holes a little larger (If necessary) and installing a wire grommet in each of the enlarged holes. The I.D. of the grommet would need to be small enough to grab and hold the bosses on the shifter panel cover. You would then simply push the panel into position. Once installed it would be easy to remove the panel if necessary. The grommets should also provide some vibration dampening. It's on my to do list!

While your at it, I would replace the two screws that secure the neutral lock out switch with Allen head screws. This will make adjusting that switch much easier once everything is put together if you ever need to. I did it to my 210 when I replaced the neutral switch. It's pretty hard to get to those two screws as it is. With an Allen wrench, you can keep the wrench on the screw head and loosen or tighten it with your right hand while you muck around with the shift lever and key switch with your left hand.


Hec

Hex screws are my preferred screw replacement in most situations. For bolts it depends on situation. I cant really grip both sides in pinch tasked not touque sensitive.

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