[gabby_in_wis]

HELP NEEDED

At a standstill. I need to remove the variator lever from shaft so I can remove pedestal cover. I have roll pins removed but lever will not budge on shaft. This is not threaded is it. I do not like to use heat but is that what it is going to take to get the lever removed. I don't want to break or scar parts.

Thanks ... Gabby

 

[ed_lincoln]

No heat, It's aluminum. Take the bolts out of the quadrant inside the pedestal and with the roll pin out, just move the handle back and forth and it will come off.

 

[gabby_in_wis]

Thanks Ed.

Got it. Had to use pry bar to break it free first. Then a lot of muscle and twisting.

Now to pull steering wheel/gearbox and instruments/switches/controls so I can finish cleaning up frame and controls areas.

Oldest son was supposed to be here to do this part. I may need to charge him for the tractor now!

Gabby

 

[hankdkrank]

Thanks Ed.

Got it. Had to use pry bar to break it free first. Then a lot of muscle and twisting.

Now to pull steering wheel/gearbox and instruments/switches/controls so I can finish cleaning up frame and controls areas.

Oldest son was supposed to be here to do this part. I may need to charge him for the tractor now!

Gabby

Good job - yes charge him.

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[gabby_in_wis]

Son works 3rd shift and had to work overtime Saturday morning. Called after he woke up. Actually the way it works is when I tell him I need help is when I put 110% into the project and get it done before he gets here. The real reason I ask for help is he brings my only granddaughter with him. She's a doll and love spending time with her. I'm a mean grandfather ain't I? No I won't charge him for the tractor. His last job was he ran an engine machine shop for 5-6 yrs. I'll have tractor running for him but he will need to fine tune it.

 

[gabby_in_wis]

Variator and pto clutch linkage cleaned up, painted and reassembled. Battery tray is installed. Still need to paint up some hardware to finish mounting cover and battery tray.

The end is in site.

1. I need to adjust the pto safety switch
2. The manual lift lever and right pedestal cover needs cleanup, paint and installation.
3. I need to remove the clutch to inspect clutch and brake linings. While clutch hub is removed I am going to replace ball and needle bearings. They feel ok but do to time tractor sat I just want to be sure they do not fail.
4. Same goes for belts. I've decided to replace the ball belts while I have it apart. I have no idea how old they are and not being used for a long time period I would expect them to be brittle. When it rolls out the door I want it to keep rolling. Not stop because of a broken belt.
5. The snow thrower pulley is loosely installed. I also need to install front lift linkage.
6. Tires need to be filled with fluid. Both have tubes installed. This tractor is going to be a general purpose tractor for me until deck and snow thrower are restored. I need the weight to move my large trailer.
7. Taking sheet metal to neighbor auto body shop.

I thought about installing hydraulic lift. If I was keeping the tractor for myself I would do this but I already have a herd of green machines with this capability. I am going to install lift assist spring as soon as I can find one for reasonable cost.

Gabby

 

[pidjones]

I'm sure you know this, but feel it good to add for new folks; clean any rust off of the traction surface of your pulleys on a machine that has been out of use fo9r years. The rust will eat a new belt in no time. I found a plastic abrasive-bristle wheel in my drill did a great job. Got it at Harbor Freight.

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[gabby_in_wis]

Did not know that. Will check that out when I get drive sheave off the PTO. I did clean up rust off snow thrower pulley with wire brush. Thank you ... Gabby

 

[gabby_in_wis]

The tractor is back together and running. Besides paint there are only a couple of minor things that need to be be completed.

• Still need to cleanup and paint manual lift area. Left side pedestal cover is painted and ready to install.
• Tractor starts and runs well but need transmission switch and light switch. I had to install jumper on trans switch to get tractor started. No power to headlights until I jumpered light switch.
• Need to go over to storage unit and get front lift kit. Need paint then installation.
• Need to change engine oil after brief warmup session. I'll adjust the carb then change oil.
• Need to talk to John to see when he will be ready for sheet metal.

Waiting to get power coat parts (model 49 ST & 50"deck). I don't really want to start a 5th project so maybe it's time to learn how to weld and spray paint. I have a stick welder but no spray booth so welding it is.

Will post photos of 216 when sheet metal is back and installed.

 

[jlw53]

Looking great!
Got me thinkin about buying a 200 series now.

 

[gabby_in_wis]

Thanks Jeff. I've been thinking myself about keeping the 216. The gear transaxle may not be as easy to mow with as a hydrostatic tractor but then it can do other general duty activities better than a hydrostatic. And what a heavy duty machine! I have also been building the tractor up to my preference.

Thinking about pulling the tiller off my 316 and setting it up on my 317. If son needs a tractor I would give him the 316 with a restored mower deck and model 49 ST that I should have finished in a couple of weeks. Son wants the tractor primarily for mowing. The 316 would be a better mower. And it would take some pressure of me to get the mower deck restored. The deck I got with this tractor needs restoration before it can be used.

Edit comment: The closed frame 2XX and 3XX tractors are simple to work on. You need to be mechanically inclined but they are a simple starting point for novices developing "green fever". It is where I started and am now wanting to move up. Will likely end up selling tractor. Just felt I needed to add this comment ... Gabby

 

[gabby_in_wis]

About done with the tractor. Monday I should be able to take sheet metal parts into body shop for paint. Hope to have them back within a week. Spoke to shop about also doing the hoods for my 316K & 317.

• Mower deck and snow thrower restorations will be completed this spring/summer and will be documented in this thread.
• My work on this tractor is about complete. Next Tuesday parts should be in to clamp down the battery and replace light switch.
• Need to change engine oil yet. Wanted to be able to run the engine to warm up oil before I changed it.
• Need to finish bolting down pedestal covers
• Grip on lift lever needs to be installed
• I did not have to replace the transmission neutral start safety switch. It must have been out of adjustment. I removed the switch, cleaned it up, and test the switch. It worked fine. Reinstalled and adjusted for neutral engagement and it is working fine.
• Got carried away again.
  • Original tractor had headlights but no taillights. Somewhere in the garage are 4 LED lights I bought to install on tractors. As soon as I find them and fender deck has been painted they will be installed. Today I ran a wire from headlight connector that needed repair to the tail lights.
  • Added 2 toggle switches on upper left of pedestal to power two more 12V circuits.
    • one will provide switched power to a 12V outlet that sprayer pump will plug into.
    • second circuit will provide power to rear work lights and/or more forward lights depending on what I design. Just running the wiring now so all I have to do is plug it in when built

I have another question. Both 216 & 316K tech manuals do not provide an initial setting for the fuel mixture screw on the carb. Where I have it set now the engine does not smoke and responds well to throttle speed changes. I just don't want to burn up the engine from running too lean. Is there an initial setting for this screw?

 

[woodpecker41]

From the Kohler bible (manual) K341 with Kohler carburetor. Low idle 2 1/2 turns. High idle 3 1/2 turns. If you have a different carb they are in there also. Roger

 

[pidjones]

My John Deere 216 service manual (section 30 page 10-6) says 2 turns from lightly seated for high-speed, 2 1/2 for idle mix. I tried the Kohler settings and found them way too rich. Adjust in 1/8 turn increments to slightly rich. I use plug appearance after a mow for final tweak.

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[gabby_in_wis]

I just re-reviewed the adjustment procedure provided in OM-M83194.

1. Initial settings offered by Roger & Mr. Jones are starting points for initial adjustments. One probably starts you out a little rich; the other a little lean.
2. Follow the procedure in the manual to complete the initial adjustment.
3. The final adjustment however requires two people if your tractor is set up to safety requirements.
4. Adjusting the high speed setting, "Keep needle position slightly on the rich side (open) when operating tractor with a power-driven attachment such as as a mower or snow thrower."
5. This means someone needs to be in the seat and attachment engaged to make the final adjustment.
6. Caution ... watch the toes if mower is engaged or caution if using snow thrower.
7. I'll confirm initial adjustments today but cannot complete until I have mower deck restored.

Thanks for responses ... Gabby

 

[gabby_in_wis]

I took in 19 pieces of sheet metal for sandblasting and power coating on Wednesday 15 Feb. They were ready for pickup late Friday, 24 Feb. That is awesome ... 9 days. Just as awesome is per piece cost. Approximately $23 per piece. Parts list follows (tractor parts are green ... model 49 parts are yellow).

1. 216 ... fender deck, pedestal, RH & LH engine side shields, grill, & grille mount (6 pcs)
2. 314 ... fender deck, and RH & LH engine side shields (3 pcs)
3. 314 ... RH & LH engine side shields and grill mount (3 pcs)
4. 318...RH & LH engine side shields and grill mount (3 pcs)
5. Model 49 ... shell, doubler plate, chain cover, & impeller shield (4 pcs)

Sheet metal has been installed on the 216. Not much left to complete tractor restoration.

1. Still need to paint seat base and install base/seat.
2. Wiring is run to tailights still need to connect.
3. Wiring is run for electrical outlet to power sprayer, etc. Need to mount connector and finish electrical connections.
4. Wiring is run for rear worklights. Need to mount worklights and finish connections.
5. Waiting for hood to get completed.

I will post final photos on the tractor and provide restoration cost when I get hood back and tractor is complete. I will keep the post going for mower deck and snow thrower restorations and maybe a sprayer build to fit this tractor for a total package restoration.

 

[gabby_in_wis]

How do I attach M80681 (panel over the shift quadrant) to the fenderdeck?

There are six bosses on the panel that engage six holes in the fenderdeck but the parts catalogue does not list any attaching hardware.

 

[KB]

By factory specs you melt the posts like rivets. Pesonally i go light on bathtub silicone caulk so i can remove it. If it gets loose and rattles its enough shock absorber to not crack or tickle your ears.

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[gabby_in_wis]

Melt it????? Would you use a heat gun like one used to solder electrical terminals? Or maybe one used for woodburning would do a better job.

Never heard of that before. I'll try the caulk.

 

[KB]

They would use something like a soldering iron to mushroom the ends of the little posts.

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