[gabby_in_wis]

My 316 with K341 engine also requires considerable cranking after it sits awhile. I hadn't thought about primer bulb. Would that be installed before or after the fuel pump.

I installed a new muffler on my 316 and it made a world of difference. 316 muffler is longer and possibly larger diameter than 216 muffler.

Positive post cable will probably end up getting replaced.

This tractor is one solid hunk of machine. I can understand why pullers like this model.

 

[gabby_in_wis]

Fuel line on the tractor was a thin wall shiny tubing like vinyl. It was very brittle and I needed to cut it with a utility knife to remove it from the fuel pump and carb. Replaced with rubber fuel line. Farm and Fleet did not have clear fuel line. Parts manual called out 10' length cut from bulk hose. 10' is about 3' to much.

As I said I have not yet tried to start the engine so may need fuel pump and breaker point service. I will update again when I try to start engine.

I do know that I loosely connected battery and did not have power to anything. I can only say that connectors were loose and I had disconnected seat switch without a jumper. If I need electrical assistance I will also update thread requesting info but for know I have put no effort into making things work electrically ... Gabby

 

[gabby_in_wis]

I used thick wall clear line with fiberglass reinforcement on my 79 Harley stroker. Luckily did not require service for many years because when I did remove it the hose was so brittle it shattered when when I tried to straighten it. Farm and Fleet had same material but I stayed away from it.

 

[gabby_in_wis]

Like you Craig I am not a point setter. I do have a set of points here I bought for my 316 but have never installed because it doesn't need them. I guess it is about time I learned how to set point gap and time the engine. If engine does not start then that will be one of the first things I need to do.

I see the # 6 but do not know the significance. I have tech manual so need to read up on it.

 

[gabby_in_wis]

Dominic, I have absolutely no idea what condition the points are in. Like you say I am going to see if it starts. If not the points will need to be inspected and probably replaced. I'm a couple of weeks from that yet and I will provide an update when I am ready to go.

I do have a question about the variator however. The lever moves freely back and forth and the linkage to the split sheave is moving. I assume however the sheave needs to be spinning to open/close. Is there something here I need to inspect/lubricate to make sure it is going to properly function after I have everything back together?

 

[gabby_in_wis]

Tech Manual I have does not include the 216. Is service information same as smaller models?

We will be leaving in a couple hrs and be away for a couple of days so responses will be delayed ... Gabby

 

[gabby_in_wis]

Yesterday put jumper cables on battery sitting on floor, turned on key switch and did not hear the relay click. OK, hit ignition and the engine turned over. Looks like electrical is a go. Engine did not seem to turn over as fast as I felt it should. New, uncharged battery probably needs to be charged.

Also yesterday picked up breather filter and hose between breather and back of air filter (M47481). That hose is for smaller hp engines; M47507 is correct p/n. I look up and provide p/n list to parts personnel. They appreciate that plus if there is a mistake it's my fault. They have always told me returns are no problem. This is one part I will try to return as it is an obsolete part order thru outside vendor. Paid almost $30 for shipping alone. Correct part is not an obsolete part. Mistake will cost me a couple days completing engine work.

What is the trick to removing the self threading nuts on underside of dash without twisting off the rubber/plastic studs? It has always happened to me before and I do not want to have to buy a replacement dash.

 

[gabby_in_wis]

I have electronic version of

John Deere Service Manual
200, 210, 212, and 214
Lawn and Garden Tractors
SM-2105-(Oct-76)
​

It does not have have full electrical schematic but does have graphic sketches of of the electrical circuits. It also appears to have detailed info on clutch/variator operation. But I say again the 216 is not included and I have to assume these areas on 216 are same/similar to other models that are covered. I have not had an issue with the manual yet. I have always found one of the key sections of any manual is the "Principles of Operation" section which explains how something is designed to function. I can generally figure it out from there.

 

[gabby_in_wis]

All of my tractors have new seats without switch. I replace springs with flip over suspensions that use a push button switch. I hope I have one more.

I am curious however why engine turned over with seat switch disconnected but no jumper. I'm not working on electrical yet so have not looked into it.

 

[gabby_in_wis]

It could just be the way I wired it on my 317 but the seat switch needs to be closed (weight on seat) to start the engine. The engine will crank but not start without seat switch closed. That may be what I am seeing on my 216. Won't know until I have it running. Hopefully that is by end of week.

 

[gabby_in_wis]

Project Update ...

• Camera is in garage. I will include some photos later
• Transaxle oil has been changed. I think the oil had been replaced by PO's as it was not to dirty or foul smelling. I have serviced transaxle oil in old 2 cycle Deere Ag tractors that as soon as you opened the reservoir the smell was atrocious.
• Right rear tire did not hold air so tubes have been installed in both rear tires.
• Front and rear wheel rims have been repainted.
• Grease zerks in steering spindles, wheel bearings, rock shaft, and brake have been serviced.
• Engine breather has been serviced.
• Fuel tank is installed.
• With breather and fuel tank work completed it was time to see if the engine runs.

ENGINE CRANKS BUT DOES NOT START.

• There is no spark at the spark plug.
• Fuel pump is working as I had fuel draining from carb with choke closed.
• Just a brief puff of starting fluid did not get a response that engine would start. I don't like using starter fluid or ether as it washes lubrication off cylinder walls but it can provide quick results but needs moderate usage.
• Seems like I have an electrical issue.

Diagnosis ...

• The wiring harness is in good condition with only break found was the male spade at connector on headlight branch
• I have a jumper in the seat switch branch. There is power there as I accidently grounded jumper wire and I had sparks.
• I have not checked PTO switch for continuity.
• I should be able to check voltage at terminal on coil to check continuity to that point.
• I need to confirm spark plug wire is properly connected at coil.
• I have not even removed point cover to visual inspect condition of points. I have a set of points I bought for my 316 which I did not use so have replacement parts.
• I have a coil from a spare K341 engine. Better yet I know the engine ran good on the 300 before I tore it down so could swap that coil out to confirm coil is not the issue.

Project is going into temporary delay mode again as I think I have sold my rotary broom. Delivery is part of the trade deal and I want to get this done before we have a snowfall. The broom needs a couple minor repairs. The 44 loader is still on trailer and needs to be unloaded. Best way to do this is get subframes mounted to 332, hitch it up, and drive it off. The broom is currently mounted on the 332 so will get the 317 out to hitch up the broom to load on trailer. 332 needed a new battery which has been completed. Another 318 (B43B engine with possible starter issue) is going to follow me home. Next summer I need to build a larger corral.

I'll be back on this project as soon as loader and broom tasks are completed.

Comments, recommendations. or tips are always welcome. Remember I am a novice at physical labor. I was a salaried employee at Deere who "sat in the office and talked on the phone" ... Gabby

 

[gabby_in_wis]

Timing marks are S (not 6) and inverted T with a line under it. See page 10-20-4 of Tech Manual SM2105 ... Gabby

I'm working on getting a 216 running myself... Have never set points on a machine so I'm learning as I go. I tried setting them visually watching the plunger but wanted to verify with the sight hole for the flywheel. Looked for the S and T on the flywheel but could only find one mark. Is this the T with a number 6 under it?? I'm confused

 

[gabby_in_wis]

Don't have weight package yet so don't know if I will be able to pick it up safely ... Key work is safely.

Do you know what I need to do to mount subframes on rear axle where I already have 3PH lower lift arms and hitch plate? Know U-bolts clamp around axle but do not know if I have enough room for all these? I see 318/332 tractors with 44 loader and 3PH so I know there has to be a way of doing this.

New spark plug so that should not be 216 start issue.

Gabby sounds like your making great progress.

Rather then mount the broom again why not just load it with the loader ?

For spark check that you get 12v to the + on the coil. If you do then its coil points or plug related. If no power its time to check further back in the harness.

I think the run signal is through the pto switch, but i dont have a diagram. Thats easy to swap with a known good one. You dont even need to mount it.

Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk

 

[gabby_in_wis]

Not much you can see in these updated photos but I know members like to see them so will keep adding. Let me know if there are specific areas you would like to see (If I can still get to them) ... Gabby

 

[gabby_in_wis]

Finally got an opportunity today to do some more work on the 216. Still trying to get it started.

With freshly charged battery and ignition switch on:

• Fluke meter shows 13.8V at + terminal on coil
• PTO switch shows 13.8V both top and bottom switches
• PTO switch shows 13.8V on output with switch in start position.
• Trans switch shows 13.8V
• Trans output shows 13.8V with switch in start position.
• Wire at breaker points show 13.8V with switch on.
• Point gap was less than spec. Reset to 0.020.
• Found broken connector on coil + terminal. Replaced

Still no spark at plug with or without jumper on seat switch.

How do I test coil? Any other suggestions.

Gabby

 

[gabby_in_wis]

Finally got an opportunity today to do some more work on the 216. Still trying to get it started.

With freshly charged battery and ignition switch on:

• Fluke meter shows 13.8V at + terminal on coil
• PTO switch shows 13.8V both top and bottom switches
• PTO switch shows 13.8V on output with switch in start position.
• Trans switch shows 13.8V
• Trans output shows 13.8V with switch in start position.
• Wire at breaker points show 13.8V with switch on.
• Point gap was less than spec. Reset to 0.020.
• Found broken connector on coil + terminal. Replaced

Still no spark at plug with or without jumper on seat switch.

How do I test coil? Any other suggestions.

Gabby

 

[gabby_in_wis]

Drats!!!

Fuel leaking on floor. Lifted tank and fuel is leaking past a "bubble gum" patch on side of tank. Saw the patch when I was cleaning the tank and figured PO had used it that way so it should work for me. Guess I am on hold again while I wait for a tank.

Anyone have a AM36947 fuel tank for a Deere 216?

 

[gabby_in_wis]

I'm new to 2XX tractors so I do not have the TM for Deere 216. I have TM for a Deere 300 & 316K; both with K341 engines. Also have Kohler engine TM & OM manuals. I would think these manuals should cover the electrical section on a 216 w/ K341 engine.

• I did not replace the points, they do not appear burned but gap was not good so I regapped them. I have voltage to the points.
• Condenser is new.
• Yes, could be stator but that would be part of the charging system. I do not see how this would not provide spark at plug. I'm not the brightest spark when it comes to electrical issues so please correct me if I flamed out.
• I swapped plug wire from 300 to 216 thinking that might be problem ... didn't help.
• Going to swap out coil next to see if that helps.

 

[gabby_in_wis]

Thanks Craig. I forgot I had this manual. It does not cover the 216. I did look at the pages you suggested. Specs are same as 316 manual but the wiring diagrams showing the switches is beneficial tracing potential problems.

Thanks for sending link ... Gabby