You first need to determine if it is a B or P series - before we can try to trouble-shoot . Look on the engine shroud for nomenclature ( engine type/code/serial no.), and post results .

Dave

 

tracy
if you have a B engine you will
have a points box on top of the engine,
above your pto clutch.
thank you. boomer

 

Ok, just checked the data plate..it's an Onan. Engine P218G-I/10426B
S/N.A883315493. I certainly appreciate any help.... I'm also certain that I need a service manual too....anyone know where I can get one. Would low oil cause this? Is there a low oil sensor?

 

Low oil sensor would not be involved unless someone added it . They only had a low oil pressure light , but that would not cause no spark ; it's a visual indicator only . The bad part is with the P-series engines , the motor has to come out if tests indicate a bad ignition trigger coil ; as it is located under fly-wheel .
Hopefully it will be something more readily accessible ; Secondary ignition coil , ignition switch , and wiring to coil + don't forget that condenser , as they are known to be finicky and intermittent .

A good trouble-shooting guide will show up here soon . I don't have a scanner , or I would post one .

Hopefully Chuck V'D. (resident electronic guru) will chime in .

Dave

 

Tracy,

You need to check the low voltage side of the ignition per the manual to verify that the electronic ignition module is working as it should. With the plugs removed, turn the engine slowly by hand as described in the test method, and watch for the switching action of the module. This module is under the flywheel, so if it is bad, you will have to pull the engine. If you have the TM1590, the test procedure is in section 240-20-20, and I have also excerpted it here as a PDF image of the page:
ignition module test from TM1590.pdf (28.2 k)

Here is the wiring diagram for that section of the tractor:

If the module checks out correctly, your issue can be a bad coil or a shorted condenser. It can also be a bad fuse or a loose connection if you have no voltage at all at the hour meter which is also driven from the TDCM at X23 pin 2 along with the 'hot' side of the coil. Once you do some of these tests and report back here, we can help you further narrow down the root cause.

Chuck

 

Thanks Dave...my first suspect was the coil. So now I will check the primary and secondary windings, but I'm unsure of the values I'm looking for.

 

Chuck. Thanks. For the info...I'm gonna give it a go first thing in the morning..

 

Tracy -

As a caveat - Follow the set procedure religiously , and in proper order , to find the exact root cause . The Onan parts are very expensive , and it doesn't pay to mis-diagnose or guess something' faulty . Lots of time it is the simplest , least expensive things that throw you a curve ; loose/faulty connections , broken wire , etc.

Dave

 

Ok, I checked the coil. The primary windings were 3.3 ohms. The secondary windings were OL.. No reading should I suspect that the coil is the issue.? Or should I reinstall it and continue troubleshooting?

 

The 3.3 sounds normal to me on the primary side, the HV side is a little more tricky to ohm meter check. Just because you get a OL or open with a digital does not mean it is bad. I will let someone else with experience with the P engine coil take over.
Just looking at the diagram Chuck posted, I'd say you should be able to read across both HV lead output terminals one to the other and get a reading.

 

tracy
when checking the secondary of the coil
be sure you are on the 20 K range.
it should be 14,500 to 19,800 ohms.
your reading is not good
your primary sounds good.
i do have used tested P coils ava.
[URL="mailto:boomers_influence@yahoo.com">boomers_influence@yahoo.com[/URL]
thank you. boomer

 

How do I move this thing.. It's in neutral and the brake is off I can't move it.... It's been raining here and I'm trying to get it into my garage. As can see this is the first John Deere I've owned.. Today is a bad day to try to trouble shoot outside.

 

There is a release lever for the hydrostatic, up underneath the pan right side. Should have a decal showing which way to push lever and then get someone to help you push into your garage.

 

Thanks Bill.. I'm a total armature here. There's no placards or decals on this thing.. Question. .? Turning the engine clockwise and you referred to the right side., is that from sitting in the seat or looking at the mower from the front.. .? And what's the " pan" ?

 

Tracy,

The fender pan is the large sheet metal piece that includes the running boards, the fenders and the central frame cover/area where the seat is mounted. Here is a photo from the operator's manual on how to mover the release lever to manually push the tractor.

This lever is in front of the right rear tire (right side from the operator's perspective when seated on the tractor...)

Chuck

 

Chuck. Thanks. I did find the lever in the wheel well. But oddly. There is no hole for the lever, not sure why that is. But I was able to move it now ..

 

Opinion /advise. - notice the plug lead is blued too. I think I'm getting in over my head - but determined to follow it thru..

 

Trying to upload a photo.. Can't figure out how to shrink below 640x640.

 

 

I'm knee deep in this now. Battery/Battery tray removed. Found the Hobbs meter plug cracked. Also a purple wire chaffed through - I assue it was contacting the belt...I see a relay looks reality new, I'm guessing from the previous owner, not sure what its for..

 

Tracy,

Most later frames do not have the hole shown in that illustration of the release lever -- not an issue...

I will e-mail you some information too large to post here that will help you trace down any wires that you find damaged or changes that are questionable. Since this is new to you, just ask as many questions as you have -- we will try to help. Keep the information flowing...

Chuck

 

I want to thank everyone who supported me in my quest to get my 316 running again,I have to say without this forum I would have been trailering my tractor to the shop. The end result after ringing out wires and switches, I repaired chaffed wires and replaced the coil, and now I can cut my grass again...I now will be doing some work over the winter in my tractor...

 

Tracy,

Glad to hear that you got it operational again.

Feel free anytime to ask any additional questions you have for the group here to answer...

Chuck

 

Actually according to some of the stories I've read on here, the JD shop might make it worse!!

Chuck has helped many people with his electrical/ electronics skills, thank you Chuck!!

 

Chuck. Thanks again, you were instrumental throughout the process. I'm sure I'll be back, I have a lot of questions.