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316 with P218 Onan starter

2.3K views 6 replies 2 participants last post by  jd1979212  
#1 · (Edited)
Hello everyone,
I seem to have a problem with my starter, when it engages it doesn't seem to engage all the way it kind of almost grinds barely turning it over. When I do get it started and gets warmed up its starts like it normally does. I don't think the starter is loose but can check to make sure. My question is does something need adjustment or lubricated? I am not very familiar with the starters on these tractors never had trouble before. Thanks in advance. Ben
 
#3 ·
Thanks RussK,

That is what I assumed, but thought I would make sure before I would tear into it. Is there an easy way to remove the starter? It is buried quite deep in the frame. Would I have to pull the engine to get it out? Ben
 
#4 ·
It is a lot easier to work on if pulled out, and will give you a chance to inspect it thoroughly. I pulled out a p220g (420) my mother in-laws this summer and it was full of crap. Cooked out the ignition module (25 years). Pull off engine tin and clean, you may need to pull fly wheel to, there was a lot of dirt and solid crap caught there. In 10 years she never clean (blew motor out after or before using it). Type of person who uses things till they die from neglect. Her house is a different story though.
 
#5 ·
Thanks again RussK,
I plan on pulling the engine this winter. Is there any easy way to do it, I haven't looked at it yet but what is all involved?
While I have it out is there anything else you recommend doing?
Ben
 
#6 ·
Do you have the manuals for service?

If not please, PM your address using the are under your profile on the forum.

1. Remove belly pan/screen.
2. Pull off front grill.
3. Remove engine side green covers.
4. Disconnect battery, remove it.
5. Remove battery pan.
6. Remove hood/front hood support together (4 bolts down on front frame), Disconnect yellow wire (headlight power), black ground from heat shield
7. Disconnect front PTO wires (purple wire, black ground wire (maybe anchored to engine mounting bolt), Remove PTO (requires use of puller)
8. Use a wire (I use a metal coat hanger opened up) to support drive shaft. remove 4 bolts from coupler/flange to engine.
9. Remove 4 bolts holding engine base to mounting plate/frame
10. Shut off gas, remove the feed hose from pump, cap the hose and pump (safety)
11. Disconnect wiring: (Ground to engine, separate engine wires (3 prong plug).
12. Begin to lift engine out (use either lift or another strong person to help). After you get it up a few inches, put blocks under the engine. disconnect the red battery cable from starter, and the ignition wire on solenoid. ( if you find that the nut just twist, you may have to work the red cable back out from the firewall, that is what I had to do), then haul it away, place on strong support (be careful of the oil drain, it hangs lower, thus it can be broken out of the base).

Clean and inspect the engine while it is out, I just found a leak on my oil pressure switch, it is the second one to go bad, this one lasted about 10 years, first one 20 years. Clean the frame of the tractor! Take care of any rust in the area (remove the rust, treat the rust, repaint, use black semi gloss)

While you have fly wheel off (requires use of a puller), There is a magnetic collar that the trigger senses to fire the engine. If the plastic is black in color, replace it. The newer ones are grey in color. (thank you boomer_influence) The black one has a defect, magnets tend to pop out.

Also replace the pulser fuel pump line to the vacum port, if you haven't already or not sure if it was ever done. Saves pulling the engine again. Remember these are 25 to 35 year old engines

Reverse the steps to put back in.
 
#7 ·
Thank-you Russk and Jnc332,

It has all helped a lot. I plan on doing some testing first, then will dig into it more.

Thank-you all again, I really appreciate it.

Ben