I moved the thread to the late model section as the 4x5 machines were all made after 92

 

Thank you for your help.

 

More likely the water pump is bad I suspect. Roger

 

The coolant was being forced out in the area that is circled in red between the crankcase and the crankcase cover.

Randy

 

Are you getting any in your oil? It would be milky when warm

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Randy, I've seen that same leak, twice. One was the vertical shaft model (285), the other was the horizontal shaft engine very similar to your 425, but it was in a Kawasaki Mule. I can't say that area is prone to leak, but sure seems that way. The replacement gasket may be a better material. The old ones just seemed to turn to mush in that little curve.

Look up the parts on jdparts.deere.com. It isn't too bad a job. Once you pull the pump and crankcase cover, you will want to replace all those gaskets, the "O" rings in the case, and the bottom seal. A new coolant pump is good insurance against doing most of the same job again later. If your machine is old enough, you might find the plastic geared camshaft in there.

I highly recommend purchasing the manual for liquid cooled Kawasaki engines that matches you model. If you keep running a L/C Deere with a Kawasaki, it will get you out of a lot of problems.

tommyhawk

 

Thank you everyone. There is no coolant in the oil. I drained the cooling system and the crankcase. No swap of fluids between those systems is apparent. I am down to removing the crankcase cover next trip to the workspace.

I will be happy to finally be able to see if this engine has the steel or plastic gears. The serial number sticker was blown away by the previous owner's son using a pressure washer.

Randy

 

Randy, I am having the same problem with my 425 can you do it without taking out the motor

 

Yes, it is easy to do in the tractor.

 

Problem resolved:

The gasket was the problem. I replaced it as well as the two Orings between the case and cover and the crankseal. The domed end of the governor was worn flat so I replaced that as well. The small bypass hose out of the waterpump was about to rupture and the lower radiator hose was baked by the heat of the exhaust. I installed a new waterpump.

You do not have to remove the engine to remove the front cover. There are two bolts on each side at the bottom of the cover that secure the cover to the motor mount assembly. One of them secures the negative battery cable to tractor frame. The side with the cable connection was a challenge.

I have put two hours on its clock since doing the work and everything seems normal

 

thanks for the reply I was able to tighten the bolt and it quit leaking but iam going to replace the water pump anyway so i will replace gasket then, just did not want any surprises when i took crankcase cover off

 

I would also look check to see if yours still has the plastic cam gear while its apart. If so, replace the camshaft at the same time. There is a serial number break on those that have the bad cam design and those that do not. New cam is all metal. Just did a cam job on a 425 at the dealership I work for. Not a bad job, I used 4 of the magnets on reach sticks to hold the lifters up while I slid the old cam out and new cam in, easy peasy! New water pump and all new gaskets/o rings as well. Ran like a top afterwards. Mike

 

mine is a 98 so i think it has a steel cam, it has 1300 hours and i put 500 of them on it but i will check when i have it apart