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Is the 318 enough tractor

12K views 31 replies 20 participants last post by  aolshove  
#1 ·
Glad to have found this forum. I'm relatively new to tractors. I got to drive my grandpa's International and Farmall tractors on his farm when I was a kid, but that was about the extent of my experience until this last summer when I moved my family onto a 7 acre spread in central Ohio: 4 acres to mow/cultivate, and 3 acres of woods.

I spent a few weeks obsessing about tractors: what could I afford on craigslist and cross referencing my options with reviews and articles on this site and others. The grass was growing and I needed something quick-ish. The 318 was well respected and seemed well enough featured. A video clip of a 318 pulling a bottom blow made me think it would be a great do-all tractor for my smallish property.

I found a 318 that the seller promised was gone over mechanically and ready to go. It included a 46" deck, incomplete powerflow, Model 49 snow blower, wheel weights and chains. I figured I was in pretty good shape. Turns out, the seller was full of it, and the tractor didn't make it through the first mow before breaking down. After several rounds to the shop, I have a good running machine. I'm ~$3k all in so far, a bit more than I wanted. And in the midst of breakdowns and repairs, I picked up a good dedicated mower which is, in fact, in awesome shape and and with the tight turns on my tree filled yard, it takes a fraction of the time to get through the lawn. The 318 probably won't have the deck on very often anymore.

Fast forward a few months and I have learned one of the main uses for my tractor will be maintaining my 1/3 mile long gravel driveway. (This is the same driveway I was keen to have the snow blower for.) I don't have a 3 point hitch right now, but my dad's 2025R does and he has loaned it to me along with a 6' rake and 5' blade. After I figured out how to turn on 4x4, I was making progress getting some of the gravel back up out of the hard pack during a warm wet spell, but I ran out of daylight. Going slow with the rake at a modest dig depth, I could not maintain traction without 4 wheel. It makes me wonder if the 318 will be able to hack it.

I suspect I will need a box blade a few times a year when weather and daylight will limit upkeep. From what I've read, a 42" box blade can be dragged along with a 318. Does that include box blades with scarifier teeth digging in? For the width of the driveway, a 6' rake seems like the right size to maintain and crown the driveway, but several retailers recommend a only a 4' rake for 18HP tractors.

This is my question. Is the 318 enough tractor that I should keep it, invest in it, and be glad I did? Or, am I starting with the wrong platform? If I'm reasonably thrifty, I figure it'll cost another $2500 by time I get an FEL, 3 point, rear implements, and some restoration work. Should I make that investment in this old beast or sell what I have recoup some of my investment and apply that toward a different machine and tools?
 
#2 ·
If a front end loader is on your list of needs you would be money ahead to buy a larger tractor that has a loader, then sell your 318 if you think you don't need it. I use a 5' rake and 4' box blade on my 322 but I have a locking differential and wheel weight. I would not (could not) use any bigger as this is pushing it...
 
#3 ·
The front end loader for the 318 has become harder to obtain and more expensive to buy. I have had mine almost 10 years and could sell the loader for what I paid for the tractor and loader. However I won't be selling anytime soon. If you have to do a lot of work maintaining the road just remember a 318 can do the work but will take twice as long. Because of its two wheel non locking design it will have to take a smaller bite. My 318 with front loader is primarily used as a brush hauler in the work I do. My other 318 does mowing duties and snow removal with it's 54 inch front blade. And I don't have 7 acres to maintain.
 
#4 ·
I think a bigger machine is needed unless you don't mind the extra time the 318 takes
 
#5 ·
Four acres is a fair amount of mowing. I would suggest a zero turn for mowing then build up your 318 to do the rest of the work.

You do not absolutely need 4wd to do work. You need proper tires for traction and weight. Without this the only difference you will encounter is you will have 4 wheels spinning instead of 2. You have a good work tractor as I said just needs to be set up to do type of work you expect it to do. Then you need a mower (ZTR).

Gabby
 
#6 ·
A 318 loader is best as a dedicated loader tractor. The loader is not easy on and off. I have a 420 with loader and another tractor for everything else.

As for your yard size it would be alot of seat time with the 318 doing gravel work. Its capable, but 1/3 of a mile is alot.

Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk
 
#7 ·
I think you need a bigger tractor.
I have a '87 318 that I bought new and really like. I have used it for mowing and leaf collection in the summer and running a snow blower and pushing a blade in the winter. It does all of those jobs very well. I don't think it has the weight or traction to do any amount of loader or box blade work. For loader and box blade work I use a JD 4 WD 850. Even that has it's limits.
1/3 of a mile driveway is a lot to maintain. Get something as big as you can afford, or, keep the 318 for light use and hire out road repair every few years.
My vote would be to have two or three tractors.
 
#9 ·
I agree that a loader on a 318 is pretty much a dedicated function considering the time/effort to mount and take it back off. That and cost issues are all why I chose a Johnny Bucket SR for my 322 (but I did not need the higher lift as I was only moving/placing materials like cedar chips and gravel...) The JBSR is no more work to put on or take off than the front 54 inch blade.

Similarly, I made my own 4 foot landscape rake and a 56 inch center blade for gravel driveway work, and each of these are a good size for these tractors as Doug mentioned above. If you need to move lots of material when you work on your gravel drive, then a box blade is the right attachment -- but the center blade is a joy to use for leveling chores.

My property was a little under 2.5 acres so the vintage garden tractor series was good for me. At 7 acres and multiple use needs including a true FEL, I would suggest you should consider a CUT or SCUT. Diesel is a real step up in these machines for work oriented torque and fuel economy as well. It will cost much more than the 318 to purchase such a unit, however.

Chuck
 
#10 ·
Thank you all for your feedback and input. (I had to wait to get back to my PC to respond. The mobile version won't let me login/post.)

The overwhelming majority opinion is that the 318 is not the right tool. I don't need a tractor with a mower any more. I got a Gravely ProMaster 3000 dedicated mower with is a HST drive, mechanical steer beastly zeroturn. I love it. I didn't like the idea of a dedicated mower, but this makes the mowing task take A LOT less time. My time is already stretched thin, so efficiency and not a lot of down time is important.

If money were no object, I would get a new JD S/CUT with implements and be squared away. However, that isn't feasible. Since I don't need a belly mower anymore, I've wondered about shopping for a vintage utility tractor like an old Ford *N. Feature wise: 3-point, traction, and FEL are the features I am most aware I need. I can imagine using rear PTO for brush and maybe a few other uses, but it isn't really on my radar yet. Questions about those might belong in a different category.

I trust any of the garden tractors are going to be in the same class as the 318 and somewhat underpowered/underweight for a long driveway or anything more than light grading work. (chuckv, the belly blade under your 322 is awesome!!!)

Are the FELs that fit the garden tractors hefty enough for medium duty? My best basis for comparison is my dad's 2025 and FEL. I see how he uses his and I have similar projects and tasks: move gravel, earth and mulch around, help grading drive and landscape projects, prepping the ground for a barn slab, and moving heavy things around such as hoisting logs with a chain, etc.
 
#11 ·
Thinking a larger tractor is in your future, 318 is a great 2 acre tractor but your talking a good amount of time mowing. Something with a finish mower and a PTO drive. Then you can easily keep the bucket mounted. The huge plus is you live in the farm belt so used tractors are far more in abundance there then say in the North East where farming is a thing of the past.

Welcome to the site and please tell us how it goes.

Greg
 
#13 ·
It's sounding more like you need a dedicated loader tractor. As classic as they are an 8n has a lot of limitations the main one being the lack of power steering, then there is the front end which is not a rugged as it should be for continuous loader work. If you plan on using any PTO powered equipment the 8n does not have a 2 stage clutch. If you like the Fords something like a 3000 with power steering and a beefier axle would serve you better they were available in gas and diesel versions stay away from the Select-O-Shift (SOS) transmission.
I have a tired old MF40 industrial diesel with manual shuttle transmission 2wd 40hp with a heavy MF loader on it it also has the dual clutch pto and 3 point hitch and an MF backhoe (which i hardly ever use) I put chains on it in the winter, as long as i keep it on the road it is near unstoppable. I have been looking for a 4wd JD compact in the 30+ hp range with Quick attach loader and a hydro or shuttle type transmission. I have yet to find anything within my budget until then the old MF40 will do. I also own a JD670 4wd with a JD60 loader it's a neat little machine but at only 19hp it's only a useful toy. Probably a bit more than 2 cents worth ;7)
 
#14 ·
Thanks for the thoghts and specifics. I'm not sold on the old Fords. I like the vintage look, legacy, and price point. I found a Jubilee in good shape with an FEL not too far away that is roughly in my price point. I think these have live PTO and draft control on the 3 point. I don't know anything about the strength of the FEL or if the front end was improved enough to make it a contender. A Ford 3000 or something in that class and vintage if it had a diff lock seems like it would do nicely. A good enough balance of modern, tried and true, and cost. I certainly wouldn't turn up my nose at an MF40. That is a lot of machine.

After working the driveway a little more with the 2025R, it is more apparent that my driveway needs more material to be fixed. A good box blading could level out the pot holes, but the whole drive is slightly sub-grade, so pot holes will be a constant battle until that is remedied. With a refreshed base and more gravel, I wonder if I will be able to get away with more occasional raking to reset the crown for drainage and less ground engagement on the looong driveway. This is all pretty new to me, mostly theoretical, and I am sure my understanding has some gaping holes, kind of like my driveway.

I am not married to my 318, but I am pretty sure in the present market I will take a loss to sell it, which I'm naturally not eager to do. I don't have covered space to keep it around as a 3rd tractor/back-up mower and can't really afford a bigger tractor without selling this first. So, last call for sanity:

If I'm only occasionally running a rake, and I'm OK with going slow, can I drag a 6ft rake at an angle once or twice a year? Wheel weights, chains, maybe a little more ballast. Or is this really pushing the machine past its limits threatening the longevity of the HST and/or engine?

I spent a little time last night poking around the interwebs about 3 point implements that could possibly stand-in for an FEL. I found some interesting tools for the TPH, some of which seem better suited for the tasks I have in mind: move logs (mostly draggin, carry all, even some feasibly viable shovel like digging implements. These tasks aside, a johnny bucket type light FEL might be adequate to move a little gravel and mulch here and there, and help carry firewood from the woods. This all assumes the Cat 0 TPH available for the 318 is up to the challenge.

I have a strong sense that a bigger tractor with a Cat 1 TPH will do these jobs better. I guess, I am still getting over my sense that the 318 was 1983's version of a SCUT.
 
#15 · (Edited)
Ylexot, this is why I backed out of your post. You alone need to determine what machines you need to complete the work you need to have done. I questioned why you were wanting to breakup a solid base to smooth out a roadway. A smaller unit will easily grade fill material spread over a solid base. So what other work on your property needs completion that you need a larger unit? If I owned acreage for sure I would want a compact tractor with loader. These are pricey so next option would be an aged Ag tractor. Your situation and finances will determine the route you need to take. Have fun developing your property and most of all do it safely ... Gabby
 
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#16 ·
Thanks Gabby. I'm trying to figure out the limits of my garden tractor before investing more into it or starting over with a beefier machine.

Regarding breaking up a solid base to smooth out the roadway: my driveway was maintained by the neighbor who shared it with me. He has moved and wetter weather has come. My driveway looked great with the attention of my old OCD neighbor with his 8N and box blade. Now the drive is mostly mud and pot holes. The track isn't getting chuck-holed, that is other than big pot holes, the drive is pretty flat. But it is a muddy potted out mess. I think the gravel has been pressed into the underlying soil, but seems to have stabilized. I figured a scarifier could bring the larger stones back to the surface, but I'm still learning here. I'll be recruiting some pro help soon as I am fairly convinced we need more gravel at least if not base material.

Once the driveway is in good repair, is the 318 with a cat 0 TPH and a 6' rake going to work to keep it in good repair? Or am I going to wear it out by over working it. Add to this chore putting it to work dragging logs out of the woods, moving logs around, grading for landscape with a rear blade, light loader work that a Johnny Bucket seems capable of doing, though a FEL would do it faster and could be used to assist grading, and snow removal (I bought this tractor in no small part because of the blower).

I did take the step and got a ZTR at the end of summer. That was an improvement for mowing and makes an old ag tractor feasible. If I had a few grand to with nothing to do, I'd go bigger on a larger machine and then get implements to fit. If the 318 was made for this chores I have, then I have my machine. If it is pushing its abilities then I really need to invest in a more appropriately sized utility tractor. I just need to know what I've got before I invest more and/or ruin an otherwise sound garden tractor.
 
#17 ·
I'm just like you. I want to do it myself but sometimes that is not the economical way to get it done. If you do not have need to for tractor and ground engaging attachments after the road is up to satisfaction then it is by far cheaper to hire someone that has the equipment to do the work. You do not need a shed full of unneeded/unused equipment. It sounds like you need some base material stone hauled in and spread. Then drive over the material for a spring breakup or two to develop a solid base. If you have spots that still develop pot holes concentrate with adding more stone to those areas. When you no longer have pot hole issues then you can spread finer material to give you nice smooth driveway. Make sure this base development is wide enough so if at a later date you decide on a finished surface like blacktop or cement you have sufficient width.

Yes, it sounds like you need something larger than a 318. It is a great tractor but it does have limitations. Thanks ... Gabby
 
#19 ·
I have a commercial zero turn and a compact utility...
 
#20 ·
Update: i hired a local fellow with a larger tractor, FEL, and a TR3 to dig out my pot holes and help spread some #304 gravel to reestablish a base in the worst areas. He made relatively short work of it without costing a fortune. I think I'll hire him, and his tractor, again in the spring to do more with the base and help spread an inch or two of #57s.

This has got me thinking. Maybe I will just continue to hire out the driveway work. I can have him come out once or twice per year for a few years for the cost of a new rake. I miss out on the fun of playing with the gravel, but i have plenty of other fun projects to keep me busy for a while.

Aside from the driveway, the other main and frequent chore for the tractor is helping with firewood processing. I ran across this little gem which certainly inspired my imagination. https://youtu.be/XK3kTvRPioo

With this grappler, a 3 point log skid of some sort, a small FEL and some ballast and I should be set to do most of what I need done. The 318s small footprint seems like a bonus working in the tight quarters of the woods. I can outfit my 318 with these tool for the cost of upgrading to about the cheapest utility tractor i can find with an FEL. Then i still need the rake and other implements.
 
#21 ·
8n's SUCK at loader work. The front axles can't deal with a decent loader on them. You're going to need at least a ford 3000 or 4000 for that work. Those had good loaders that went with them. The Deere 2010, 2020, 3010, 3020 would also be good choices with loaders made for them, and do actual real work. If you want to do what your Dad is doing with his 2025, you'll need a 2025. 606, 706, 806 internationals with GB or westendorf loaders are also optoins. Look for mid 60's to late 80's 40-90hp tractors for your best options.
 
#22 ·
I'm in a similar situation, 5 acres and a 420 and 430 with most of the attachments. I have decided to sell off everything but the 430, may sell it down the road though. I have ordered a new 1025R. I wanted something that would last the next 40 years and serve me better. IMO this older 318 era equipment is getting over priced and starting to require too much upkeep. Parts are expensive and getting harder to find. There really is no comparison to a 1025 with even a 430. Also hard to beat 0% interest for 5 years.
 
#23 ·
guy at work bought a 1025 and sold his 318, his wife finally talked to him a month ago after she got to use it the first time
 
#24 ·
We had a Ford 3000 that we beat the hell out of at the farm. We had a huge bucket on it and the better part of a 55 gallon drum filled with concrete for counterweight. I think we broke the axle 2 or 3 times and 4th gear went out on it but we couldn't kill it. It was really undersized for the size of farm I worked on but for home use I would think it would be an absolute beast.

I have a 322 with a 44 loader and it accomplishes all I've asked of it, (moving snow, moving attachments, trail maintenance, etc). It has a small footbprint and does work really well in the woods where space is limited. The size is also nice for storage. However, I too see myself eventually moving to a 1025 or 2xxx series when I can afford to equip it the way I want. The 1025 doesn't look to be that much bigger than the 322 but seems far more versatile and capable. If I didn't already have the 322 I'd probably look into the 1025 right away.
 
#25 ·
A Ford 3000 in good repair with an FEL in my price point (<$5k) would be hard to pass up. A 2000 even, maybe? All I've seen is stuff on the web, but sounds promising. This may be sacrilege to some, but I'm effectively color blind: green, blue, orange, old red, new red. What I need is something that isn't going to take my weekends to keep running and that will let me spend 1 weekend doing a chore instead of 2. I've got small kids and ambitions beyond working my property every weekend. Maybe I misunderstand the meaning of WFM. :)

My dad's 2025R is pretty slick. If I could afford one of those and just share implements, that would be worth the 2 hour round trip to go fish. I can't swing another payment right now. (unless I'm mistaken, the 1025R and the 2025R are in approx the same price range new: one is better for mowing maybe and the other is better for tractoring?) I need a barn and some other updates around here before I can luxuriate in a new moshine.

My 318 is perhaps a mower first. I don't need a mower anymore. A quick hitch ($600), grapple ($550), mini-loader ($1700) would get me equiped to do most what I want (assuming I'm ok with hiring out the drive and heavier lifting) Add a Cat 0 rake and blade (~$1000) and I can manage all the landscaping and snow work. Then all I need is for the 318 to hold up for years of service or at least long enough to pay for the other big ticket items (is there ever an end?) and perhaps pick up a used 2025 in 5-7 years and recoup some of the cost of the 318 and implements. OR I recoup the some of the cost of the 318 now, and move on with a somewhat classic UT, FEL and Cat 1 3ph. What I'm gving up is the grappler, which maybe can be made using the 3PH and a rear remote, and a snow blower. But gain 1000lb of ballast and more grunt.

I'm not sure if I am gaining clarity by thinking aloud or if I'm confusing myself. it would help if I had spent much time with these tools.
 
#27 ·
The best deal Ive seen on CL around here is a MF 135 with a fully hydraulic FEL, not a trip bucket, for $3900. 2700 hours and an unspecified front wnd leak. It was over an hour away or I would have checked it out already.

I guess the next question is, how much of a hobby am I picking up with one of these vintage tractors? If I understand correctly, these little farm tractors were built to run all day everyday, at what point are the hours "high"?