Thanks Justus,
Just knowing how you did it is a good start. I've got the same problem with snow & cold slowing things down.

 

Hey Justus,

Did the 1-7/16" keep the drive shaft level?

 

This is how the box arrived. The FedEx guy picked it up and sat it on my dolly like it was empty. May have been on the side to make reading the shipping label easier?

Opened the box and removed the top protective covering.

There is a bottom just like this so it amounts to a thick box inside the box.

The motor is bolted to a piece of plywood and put in a plastic bag which is left open.

The fan cover was removed and the drive shaft adapter installed.

These adapters are bolted to the bottom of the motor.

The drive shaft is attached to the adapter, the speed control is detached from the control box, the motor is lowered while guiding the drive shaft towards the rear end, when it is close enough the drive shaft is connected to the rear end. The motor can be completely lowered now and bolted into place.

Longer screws and spacers are used to reattach the speed control to the control box to clear the left break pedal. Positive cable is run to the starter and a negative cable is run to ground the motor. I chose to go this route so if I had to send it back I could undo anything I had done. After the break in time I plan to install the PTO and with your help wire everything up so that the safety switches work.

 

Looking Good Shady !!! ….. By the looks of the muffler, it discharges on the correct side ….. Now to see if it all lines up the exit hole and fits under the hood support …. Great tutorial so far will follow thru this one ….

 

Did you find a kit for the 670?
I'm wondering where you found a drive shaft adapter and the motor mounts.
If they were available I would order a motor today.

 

The muffler is TOO BIG it will not fit under the hood. I will run them topless until I can get a smaller muffler connected.

The driveshaft adapter I bought on eBay it seems to be no longer available. There is/was an Honda adapter similar to what JD used on the 317.

I had access to a SEW Honda 670 kit and copied their mounting plates. Justus Rogers has made plates that keep the shaft at the same height as the Onan that should allow you to use the same belts for the mower etc. When he publishes his drawings I plan to have that type made.

 

predator into 317 john deer looking for drawing of mount



How about the drawing on the engine mount are their any yet THANKS

 

Shady : When you say TOO BIG ….. in what ways ??? …. length, height, Diameter ….. just curious ???

 

It has been a cold rainy day here in south eastern Virginia and my shop (the driveway until the leaves come out) had a sharp chill that encouraged me to head back inside. So, I have gotten nothing more done. Sure will be glad when Spring gets here at around supper time.

If you remove the heat shield the width of the muffler is still just a touch wide.

If the pipes continued straight and were shorter by a couple of inches they would be close to where they need to be (I'm guessing).
When Andre Blanchet put the Honda 670 in his 318 he modified the Honda muffler (about the same size?) and hood supports to make it fit. But he has talents that I can't even dream about.

 

Shady, just asking but can the muffle be flipped 180 degrees to give more clearence? Then you could cap the end and put the outlet back on the correct side.

 

I don't know what the insides look like. The exhaust pipes (between the engine and muffler) are not of equal length. The working models that I have seen were included in a kit designed for and sold with a motor or built by someone with metal and welding skills.

The above picture I copied from Mike Bryant. It shows the difference in pipe length. He has modified this for his 400 which probably has more hood width than the 318.

 

Is the Predator engine from Harbor Freight? Sorry for my ignorance, just curious....

 

yep HF

 

Yes, this is a Harbor Freight Predator engine.

 

Put new hose, two hose clamps and a new bushing in the gas tank for the reserve line. I had already run new lines from the gas tank to the engine. Hooked the line to the engine, put gas in the tank, reattached the throttle control with spacers and it started right up. Fuel pump must work. Getting ready to start the three hour low speed break in.

 

Shady,
When you have a chance, will you post the dimensions of the muffler? Especially the width.
thanks

 

I get 15" wide x 5 1/4" dia The heat shield is a little wider and stands off so it has more dia.

Measured to the outside of the lip on both ends.

 

Thanks!

BTW... for anyone interested, I just noticed that Small Engine Warehouse is showing the Drive Shaft adapter available.

 

I'm looking forward to more pics of the brackets i have a 314 would like to put same motor in have multiple predator engines one on push mower have the 7000 running watt gen with propane kit on it cant beat it for the price.. if u guys would like pics let me know...

 

I was just thinking of an idea to mount the HF Predator to the 318:
-Mount a plate to the 318 frame
-Mount a plate to the HF Motor
-Connect the plates with 4 threaded rods, one in each corner.
It would allow for fine tuning the height of the pulley.

Also, I think the rated AMPs of the Predator are right on the border of sufficient.
I've been reading about some people who have added external, 1 wire alternators.
Would it be a huge job to attach one to the rear PTO shaft?

 

I hope Justus will come back with pictures, drawings, and explanation of his two plate system. The threaded rods may work, but once you get the correct height it is a one time deal. I have not put the PTO on yet or used anything electrical but the starter so far no problem. I am a certified electrical dunce, have papers and everything. I can connect the red wire and black wire to the battery the yellow, blue and white wires not so much. I have an old GM alternator that I plan to attach to the rear PTO shaft. I don't expect this to be a huge job but I have been able to outsmart myself before. I am concerned about what color wires to use.:read:

 

I had routed the 318's choke cable around the right side to the front a couple of weeks ago. Not having my local dealer two miles from my door as I once did had given me some pause about how to handle the speed control. There was no question the one on the 318 was too short. I had not been able to find one with the right end anywhere. Everyone told me you'll have to get that from deere. I got to thinking when Gerry G. put the 23 HP Vanguard in his 140 he ran the cable straight into the carb. I pulled the cable out from under the battery tray and punched a 3/8 inch hole in the firewall (no I do not know why the PO has duck tape on the firewall). The cable tie down was not threaded just a hole. Put a couple of nuts on a bolt and it looks like it is going to work. There was just enough cable to make the turn. Getting that little "L" twist in the hole required removing some stuff but it all seemed to go back on okay.

 

I found by google a nice thread from this site about shims and installing pto's on repowers. Thought I saved it but can't find it even using google. Forgot the magic words.

Another of my out of focus pictures. Shaft of a Harbor Freight Predator 670. About 2.75 inches of 1" diameter shaft increasing to probably 1 1/8 " diameter then increasing to probably 1 7/16" for sure NOT matching the 20 HP Honda I took the 317 PTO from. I had figured since it worked on the Honda it would be a straight swap to the Predator. As (I wish) you can see in the picture I have placed a 1/4" inch plate to the engine. There is at least a quarter inch space behind the plate before the threaded rod contacts and on the front side there is at least a quarter inch from the plate to where the shaft drops down to one inch.

I plan to make 4 studs to attach the PTO to the engine. Either using the plate and a quarter inch nut or maybe just three quarter inch nuts on each stud.

I sure do like it when a plan comes together. Several days and I don't even think this one is close?

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:happy: I went back and played with google for a while and found the thread I was looking for. BUT trying to find it on this site using advanced search is above my ability.

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http://www.wfmachines.com/forums/showthread.php/1893-318-repower-PTO-HELP-NEEDED-PLEASE

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:read: I have read this several times and think I almost understand what needs to be done until I read it again and think I'm not sure. Thank goodness I don't have any clay cause where I would stick it doesn't agree with my understanding of the pictures?

 

I put in the 4 studs, put 2 - 3/8 inch nuts on each then the 317 PTO. When putting 12 volts to it I can hear the clutch engage. Without having the clutch engaged everything seems to turn freely with the engine running. I haven't engaged the clutch with the engine running (cause I'm chicken). What is going to happen if I have too much gap?

 

Well no one answered and I really wanted to know so... I hitched up a mower and borrowed a belt I thought would fit. It went on but was REALLY tight. Cranked it up ran the PTO at idle for a few minutes and shut everything down. The mower turned the PTO turned the belt stayed on. Took a break. Rechecked the PTO, mower, and belt. Didn't find any problems so went with the next test. Cut grass for a half hour. Smelled the belt a couple of times.

Plan to get a longer belt tomorrow. How many inches can the adjustment on the mule drive handle? Right now it is turned counter clockwise as far as it will go (loosen). Not sure of the effect of a belt a couple of inches longer... Any ideas???

 

Looking good