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My Honda GX670 is bolted directly on the plate like the Onan.
I had to replace the belts for shorter ones to compensate.
Also with the engine lower I had more room for the huge original Honda muffler.

The adapter plates are used by the kits supplier for easier installation.
I don't see any good reason to use them for a homemade installation.
Also even with those plates, usually the original belts are too long anyway.

It's important to be careful with the hydro pipes when drilling the new holes.
Also I had to cut a "V" on the front of this plate for the clutch and add reinforcement.
Andre
 
Andre do you have a picture of the "V" and reinforcement you made?

If you were to do another, would you still use the original Honda muffler? Has there been any problems with the cut supports or with heat from the muffler being so close to them?
 
Shady,
This is the "V" to be able to remove and adjust the clutch.
I add a plate inside the same thickness as the original.
I add it last year when I did the restoration because I found a crack at the bottom of the "V".
Maybe a shorter piece but thicker only in the center might be a better solution.
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This is another view with the frame upside down.
We can see the curve on the middle pipes to provide enough room for a socket.
To do those curves I had to pull on the pipes where they turn up at 90deg. near the valves.
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For the muffler it's very quiet and even the paint on the muffler is not a problem.
My new deere medallion 100% plastic is very close to the muffler with this setup and didn't began to cook yet.
I guess the air flow is strong enough to keep everything not too hot.

Andre
 

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Jeff,
I have to add something very important information when I took the decision to bolt my motor to the frame.
When I bought my GX670, we had a beginning of "urban legend" about overheating problem with this engine.

Another reason to bolt it directly to the frame was to improve the heat transfer from the crankcase to the frame to try to avoid this overheat problem.
I can't compare with a setup with adaptors but with my infrared thermometer, the temperature of the frame around the crankcase is the same than the crankcase itself.

Of course it's not necessary because this motor is often used with rubber mount but with all those rumors I was nervous.

Andre
 
Hey guys, I am new here and not sure how all this works yet. I did a 670 swap on my 316. When I turn the pto on it kills the engine. I have checked everything I can think of. I even disconnected the factory wiring and just ran a jumper to the pto from the battery, it still kills it. This mower had the K341 16 horse kohler, the pto worked fine on it when the engine died. Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks in advance..
 
David,
I had the same problem with my Honda GX670.
Yes it kill the ignition, it's connected with the same circuit used to normally stop the engine.

Maybe the magnetic field of the coil disturb the oil level switch, I don't know.
It's still a mystery for me but for sure I made few test and the problem is there.
I even used a separate battery to feed the PTO coil and the problem remain the same.

This level switch is for a stationary application like a generator and not include by the kit suppliers.
For a tractor this level switch will probably kill the engine every time you hit a bump and create a wave in the oil.
For our application we need a oil pressure switch like the original engine.

Andre
 
David,
Yes...
For the Honda the oil level safety setup is made of two sections:
One "Oil Level Switch" in the base of the motor hidden near the starter with 2 wires (Y & G).
One "Oil Alert Unit" over the starter where those 2 wires are connected.
A third wire (Bl/Bu) from this unit is connected to the "Engine Stop Diode".
To stop the engine this third one is connected internally to the ground by the "Unit" and I unhook only this one.
Maybe it's better to disconnect all of them to protect the "Unit" against this mystery magnetic field.

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Andre
 

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I just wanted to thank you. I didn't find a black and blue wire, but I unplugged the yellow wire on the low sensor and it works. :) Do you happen to know what flywheel adapter would work on a 316? I made my own but I don't know if I can trust it. I saw several for 318's, but no 316. I'm not sure if the drive shaft is the same or not.
 
David,
I provide those electric drawing to compare but I agree the Predator use different colors.

For the 316, I don't know about the type of driveshaft used.
If you start a new thread on this subject you will have some answer for sure.

Good luck!

Andre
 
David, Dennis' flywheel adapter pictured above is for a 400. Most did not come with the bolts but could be if arranged with the seller. I don't know but believe SEW has sold out their stock of the Honda adapters for 400, 420, and 318. They seem to be pushing the Vanguard for repowers at this time. Someone could start producing "Honda type" adapters molded more closely to the Predator but I have not heard of anyone doing so yet.

Any good machine shop can produce an adapter similar to the style of the one Andre used. A grooved 1" shaft centered into a base. A good machinist can produce the type SEW sold, mass production could reduce cost.
 
I was on SEW last night. I think it said they had 33 of the 400 adapters. I have a friend with a machine shop that could make them if I had a pattern. My 316 had the k341 kohler and it doesn't have the u joint set up. I might just have to see if we can make one.
 
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