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Discussion starter · #21 ·
Dan, I hadn't considered that, but it is important that I maintain integrity of the safety interlocks, so that will be the route I go as well!

Thanks for the heads up!
 
Here is the wiring for the 318 but you can just use the wire that you are driving the fuel sol. with to drive the coil on the relay also.

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Discussion starter · #24 ·
Here's what I came up with for the wiring diagram:

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John you will want to wire to the NC contact on the relay. When you energize the relay with the pink wire you want the relay to be open. Dan
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
Good catch, I had a 50/50 shot at it....

Here's the corrected diagram to be routed to the 87a terminal.

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Discussion starter · #27 ·
Friday night I set to work modifying the jumper harness, it required very little modification, really only extensions of current wires, and running the additional switched ground wire for the magneto.
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Since installing the hydraulic steering valve, I had to move the ignition switch, here's where I decided to put it.
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I must have kicked the engine further forward than I thought' or the muffler doesn't fit as well as I hoped, but I need to do a little sheet metal work on the front hood support so it leans back to its true position. I might need to do a bit of trimming on the outlet hole in the side panel too. It's these little details that kill you in finishing these kinds of things....
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Saturday morning, I set to work building the rear mount for the steering cylinder based on what’s on dad’s 420. I chose to weld it to the frame instead of bolting it. Disregard my ugly hose routing, that was just for the time being...
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It runs!!!!!!! I put the battery in and cranked it over. It took a bit of cranking to prime everything, but it fired up and sounds great

Next, I bolted the fender pan and other sheet metal back on, cranked it over and went for a drive. It's a completely different machine!
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While the fender pan was off and I was rewiring everything, I decided to add provisions for a rear worklight. The two-pin plug will allow the light to simply unplug to make removal easy.
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I have a few small things to finish up still, but for the most part, this project is finished!
 
Dan, what did you use for a spacer for the electric clutch? How did you determine the thickness that the spacer needed to be? I put a Vanguard in my 300, but the clutch has me stumped.
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
Thanks Dan, I sure hope so! I'm hoping that I don't run out of power since its only a 16hp. But I guess I can always upgrade to the 23 if I needed to!

Leonard, I just used washers behind the clutch mounting plate to shim it out.
 
John, it looks like you used the original spindle arm. Hows your turning radius compare to before? Also, how is the steering response and play? I'd like to add power steering to my 317 at some point.
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
The steering is the same as before the upgrade, but the eye on the 318 cylinder does get close to the frame, it actually looks like it makes contact on occasion, so I might need to grind a flat one one side for some additional clearance to the frame.

I would have used a 318 steering arm, but the spindles are drastically different.
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
So I mounted the 33 tiller up one evening after work to run through the garden finally. Little did I know that I would end up just driving around the yard for nearly an hour. My son LOVES riding around with me, and even helps steer now with the easy hydraulic steering.

The tractor is a animal even with a 16hp engine. I'm working on convincing may dad to swap out his P220 for a 21hp Vanguard in his 420!
 
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