First thing I attempted to do was do a compression test (never done this on a diesel before).

I purchased the Harbor Freight kit for diesels and removed injectors/glow plugs/and valve cover before I realized that the kit only had one adapter that fit, and it was in the glow plug hole. By the time I got all this done the engine had cooled down, but I decided to test compression regardless. Here is results:

Spec says 355 min with max difference of 65 I think so by this test I pass.

One thing I wasn't sure about was how long to crank, manual says a few seconds, but I just cranked until it stopped going up. Did the same thing for all three cylinders.

I think I'm going to pull the head and inspect cylinders/valves. I'll replace all gaskets as I go.

 

Next step is to pull engine and clean everything.

I used a combination of my pressure washer / and siphoning air blaster with simple green to clean the whole tractor and engine. Here's what's left.

 

Andy,

Looks like a complete and unmolested early 332 -- what year is it? How many hours were on the meter? ...and one last question, does Ohio really have barefoot shop weather this time of year???

It is not uncommon for the spool lever which is not associated with the deck to get no use on a tractor without additional attachments and become frozen like you describe.

Let me know if you need any excerpts from the engine or service manuals...

Chuck

 

Tractor has ~1000 hrs on the clock.

I believe it's a 1988 but serial number tag is damaged so don't know exact number. It starts with 42XXXXX.

I've made more progress, next time I'm at the computer I'll write up some more.

Biggest problem so far is that the radiator is junk. Looking like I'll be making. Large donation to mother Deere.

Barefoot not OHSA approved?

 

Picture of seized hydraulic valve.

Ordered up a new used one from everyone's favorite auction site today. Plan to replace all washers / o-rings and re-install.

 

You could have possibly freed the lever by using a punch and just hitting it in some. Heard that has worked for many out there. If it isn't/wasn't leaking then that would work.

The radiator-take to your local radiator shop. They can either repair or recore for much cheaper then JD.

 

I was able to free the stuck valve, but it still moved rough even after soaking in Kroil for a day. I figured for $35 plus some O-rings I would be better off with one that had never been seized.

I've never taken one of these apart, so I may do that just to see how they're set up.

 

I took my radiator to my local radiator house and they cleaned and pressure checked. It has multiple tank cracks and the core is shot. Quoted $400 to re-core and fix cracks, so I bit the bullet and bought a new one for $550.

Next time I'm looking at one of these liquid cooled machines I'll pay closer attention to the cooling system

 

Last night I got the sheet metal painted. Not a professional job by any means, but I removed all rust, primed, and applied 3 coats of Deere green via rattle can.

Plan to let it cure for a week or so, then give it a wet sand before decals.

Any suggestions on wet sanding?

 

I would go real easy on the wet sanding. 3 coats of rattle can paint isn't very thick. Very interesting project btw, will be watching your thread. Keep up the good work.

 

Great job. Excited for you. Been there after restoring my 430. Good luck!

 

I did my 332 back in 2013. I painted mine with an HLVP gun and John Deere paint. One word of caution concerning the wet sanding, you need to
give it plenty time for it to cure before getting on it. Especially with the rattle gun stuff. I don't think a week is enough unless you have it
in a heated area. If you put it down heavy, it would take much more than a week to cure. Mine wasn't cured enough after a week and I used a hardener.

 

Thanks for advice on paint guys. Its going to be a while before I'm ready for decals so I'm just going to let all the metal cure inside for a while. Probably be ready after the new year.

 

Made good progress last week on the hydraulic valve. I got a new used one off eBay and took it apart to clean. I removed all old grease from the detent mechanism and re-lubricated. It took me a while to figure out how it all went back together and to test it, but it works properly now.

I also moved all the fittings over from my old valve to the new valve. Along the way I replaced all o-rings in the system.

BTW, didnt get as much done as I would have liked because I had to go harvest some leaves with the 318

 

I'm waiting on Ron at AuxHyd to make me a new inner left hydraulic line (missing from tractor when I bought it), so in the meantime I started tearing into the Yanmar.

I don't expect to find any issues due to my preliminary compression check, but I figured while I got the engine out I might as well tear it apart, clean and inspect everything. Few pictures of the process.

It was surprisingly easy to disassemble, except the drive shaft mounting crank. I need to go rent a puller to get that thing off.

 

One issue I ran into is how to clean the gasket surfaces. I've always used a wood scraper and carb cleaner and polished them up with emery cloth. I've done this only on air cooled engines with minimal holes into crankcase so i could block them off and not get grit inside. On this engine there are obviously a lot more holes. What do you all recommend to use to clean the surfaces?

I started with emery cloth, but I quickly realized I was getting debris in crankcase. I'm planning to remove pistons/crank and clean thoroughly prior to re-assembly just to make sure.

Thanks

 

So did you find a place that sells a gasket kit for the engine? I'm doing my 330 and your making me think I should do the same.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Kyle, looks like you're having as much fun as me! I buy all parts from Deere unless I can find OEM versions on eBay or from manufacturer (I buy Onan parts from Cummins or Onanparts.com).

Deere has gasket kits for both the head work and block work. Not cheap tho

 

Last week I sucessfully removed the driveshaft pulley from the rear of the engine using this 3-jaw puller on loan from Autozone.

I had to reverse the jaws of the puller so that the small hooks were used in the long position, then hooked it up with the center bolt installed to push against.

I applied a good amount of tension and it didn't budge, so I soaked with PB Blaster and heated up the pulley with my propane torch. Still nothing.

I applied more tension to puller and started LIGHTLY tapping perimeter with a small metal hammer, on the 6-7th tap if popped right off.

Surprised to find no keyway on this shaft, just taper. I guess the press fit is enough to transmit all the torque. Couple pics of aftermath.

Looks like I found one of the main sources of all the oil on the belly!

 

Next step was to remove gear train and all aluminum housings. I forgot to snap some pictures along the way, but here are a couple after pics.

This process is pretty straightforward, just remove cap screws holding on gears/camshaft and remove. Pic of camshaft

Next up, piston / crankshaft removal and bore measurement.

 

To remove pistons I first carefully documented which pistons/connecting rods/caps go in which cylinders.

Then i used steel wool / super fine emery cloth to remove carbon ridge at top of cylinder. I intended to use a ridge reamer for this, but the one available for loan is too big for these cylinders (~2.6"). Lyle makes on that would fit, but its like $70 so I decided to just use steel wool / emery. I rotated the crank until the piston was near top of stroke, but the carbon ring was still visible and used the piston head to ensure I minimized cleaning of cylinder walls.

This worked really well for the very small amount of carbon on the wall. I'm going to have the cylinders honed and expect this to clean up the cylinder near the top.

After this, I removed cap screws from connecting rods and pushed cylinders out using a wood dowel, being very careful to not allow connecting rod to touch cylinder wall.

Inspection of pistons / rings showed nothing to be broken or distressed. No seized or blown rings and all bearings tight.

Crankshaft removed next by removing the bearing cap screws and pulling out from the bottom.

Next i measured all three cylinder bore diameters using my friends bore gauge.

New spec for this engine per the manual is 2.599" - 2.600" with a wear limit of 2.606".

All three cylinders measured 2.6015", well within wear limits. With these results, no plans to re-bore. Just new rings.

This is a seriously durable engine, only 0.0015" of wear after 1000hrs!

 

Next up was disassembling the head in prep for hot tank cleaning.

Removed intake and exhaust manifolds.

Removed valves using my Lisle spring compressor.

Removed valve seals using small vise grip pliars and slowly rotating until they came off.

 

Next up is pressure wash of block. Nothing special about this. Covered all non painted surfaces with WD-40 to minimize rust while waiting for hot tank.

 

Last accomplishment of the weekend was cleaning, wire brushing, and painting a lot of the little components. It was 70deg and sunny, so I figured I'd get outside and get this done.