The small sprocket is welded only at the end of the shaft.
I removed most of the weld with a grinding disk:

Then I put the shaft in a vice and hit all around the sprocket to loose it:

For the bearings I had to cut all the locking collars.
Andre

 

Now I'm ready to order everything and I found something interesting to reduce the noise.

This chain is supposed to be more quiet but I don't know anything about it and I have few questions:
http://www.tsubaki.ca/products/drive-chain/low-noise-chain/
1- Any idea in % about the 6-8 dB’s lower noise?
2- Any idea about the lifetime of this chain?
3- Any idea about possible damage to the sprockets?
Thank's for your comments!
Andre

 

Andre,

The link did not work as posted for me.

But I do know how to relate a dB number (which is logarithmic in nature) to an increase in percent. Each 3 dB increase step represents a doubling in power, so a 6 dB step is a quadrupling (2 x 2) if an increase...\or a quartering (1/2 x 1/2) if a decrease. You should note that the human sense of hearing, like many other things in nature, is also logarithmic in its perception, so there is perhaps not as large a *noticeable* reduction as you might imagine...here is a chart of typical noise levels expressed in dB relative to a sound pressure at the distances noted:

I was able to reconstruct your link to the low noise chain with wound rollers from Tsubaki, and found this data sheet explaining why it should be less noisy.
http://tsubaki.ca/pdf/Low_Noise_Chain.pdf
I have no idea about relative life of such a chain compared to the standard configuration...

Chuck

 

Andre - Saw an interesting ad recently for a blade that mounted on the front of a 49 snow thrower.

Thought it was an interesting idea. I don't think the shaft was removed. It just bolted onto the front of the thrower.

 

Andre, Interesting idea, though I would think that the increased deflection in the roller component might accelerate the wear on the sprocket and chain as Chuck mentioned.

I've been giving some pretty significant thought to retrofitting a synchronous belt system, sort of like automotive timing belt drive. But haven't ordered any parts yet.

 

As Chuck wrote, a 3 dB increase doubles the power. The minimum discrimination of human hearing is a 3 dB change. Perhaps a more important factor is the contribution of the chain to the total blower noise. I suspect it is not the main source, so any noise reduction from the chain may be negligible to the sound level of the entire blower.

 

Phil,
My first choice is to fabricate a center blade but I have to think about this option.
I like the idea and it's something simple to fabricate.
Thank's!
Andre

 

Thanks for share your knowledge about this noise "low reduction" chain.
I just discover a possible huge source of noise.
The bearing near the small sprocket is totally falling apart with 1/8" loose.
Also the shaft diameter at the bearing location is almost 1/16" smaller.
Andre

 

Andre, I was thinking that the main reason for the noise level with these snowthrowers is faulty worn parts.
They are not that easy to replace, and will contribute greatly to vibration when worn.
I got interested in your quite chain theory and after researching it a little think that Chuck and others are correct in thinking the reduction in noise is not that great for the change. Maybe in an environment where there are many conveyers running would it help.
I have read that the greatest way to reduce noise levels with chain drives is to sound insulate the chain to lower the lower the noise level approximately 10-15 db. A deeper metal cover with a good acoustic dampener may be the ticket.

 

John,
I didn't evaluate the synchronous belt option. Usually they are wider than a chain for the same power.
For my actual car and the previous one, they don't use belt anymore.
They have chains and no more replacement in the maintenance schedule.
Andre

 

Chuck,
I always test all the link before posting.
This one is strange because it don't work after I reboot my computer.
I try to Google "Tsubaki", select the site then "Drive Chain" and "Low Noise Chain".
Then if I close the site, after the link will work all the time???
Andre

 

Michael,
I had few Suzuki road motorcycle long time ago and they had a kind of compact sponge inside the sprocket cover.
This product look like the Styrofoam in spray can but it was soft like rubber.
This is something I would like to try but I never saw this kind of product for sale.

I found a cheap possible little improvement.
I bought a spray can of car undercoating and they said "deadens sound" on the description.
I plan to use it inside the chain cover.
Andre

 

For the new sprocket I found some replacement but the bore is 5/8" and the original is 3/4".
The cheapest solution for me is to buy a Martin #50A16 or a Tsubaki #H50A16 and drill at 3/4".
Any opinion or other solution or other manufacturer to check?
Andre

 

Andre, I like your idea of the using the undercoating for the sound problem. Let us know what you think of the results, I will be trying it myself when I get to that point in time.

 

Guys, Just run straight pipes off the Onan and you'll never hear the chain.

 

Andre, have you considered applying the undercoating material on the entire inner surface of the thrower housing (adjacent to the auger)? It seems the chain is the source of the noise, but the big sheet metal housing probably has a large influence on how much noise is transmitted to the environment.

I wonder if damping the housing would help the cause.

The obvious concern would be how the surface interacts with the snow, though it's hard to imagine a rubber surface would pack with snow any more than the rusty steel surface most 49s have.

 

Matt,
This kind of product is a nightmare to remove if necessary.
I don't know how it's good to protect against the rust then I want to use a minimum.
I plan to use it inside the chain cover and in the section hidden with the cover.
Andre

 

Actually I try to fix the damage to the auger.

I began already and 3 section are fixed and they look a lot better.

On the right side, the beginning of the screw is very bad and thinner after removing the rust.
I decide to add a reinforcement on the back and I began with the other side.

It's not complicated and it's stronger.
Andre

 

I made a test fixing one dent on the last section.
I put this plate of brass on one side with a 1/16" gap from the edge:

Usually I always use my welding at the maximum power but I had to use a lower setup.
It's not easy with my little experience and the weld didn't look very good:

At least I develop a good expertise with the grinders to hide my poor welding:

Andre

 

Well done Andre! please keep us updated on the continuing progress of your snowthrower project, great photos. Cheers

 

I thought your weld looked pretty good Andre. Considering where you are welding it, and the cleanup looks fantastic.
The auger on my 49 is in bad shape, maybe I should drop it off at your place for awhile!

 

Hello Andre
Nice Job ! I know that 3-M makes a rattle can product called Body Schutz that you could spray on the inside of the chain cover to tone down the Noise as it is commonly used in auto-body Repairs when Panel's are replaced & used on the inside of a car or Truck quarter panel, door skin, or fender as a sound deadener, I have used it and it does work very well. How I came to find out about it was I had a 1993 Dodge Shadow that my wife used to drive. We Bought the car brand new and it had this Very Annoying Shrill Gear whine sound coming from it's front wheel drive Transmission case gear cover. I took it back to a Dodge Dealership Twice complaining about The Gear whine. I was told that since the Transmission gear's were of straight cut design, Unlike an Old school Rear end gear set that has a taper cut to them, these front wheel drive Transmission gear's were straight cut to be tougher, & the Outcome was Gear whine. I was Not Pleased at what the Dodge dealer told me so I went home & Pulled the Transmission gear cover off of the Transmission cleaned it good with some Enamel reducer then applied Three heavy coat's of this 3-M Product called Body Schutz and it eliminated all of The Transmission Gear Noise forever, problem solved. There is also a product made by John Deere called Graphite paint. It is most Helpful when sprayed on the snowblower auger as well as the Inside of the discharge chute. If applied according to the Instruction's on the can It wear's like iron and keep's snow & slush from sticking to what ever it is sprayed on and Right now is the time to cover that auger and discharge chute with the graphite Paint as you have it snded down well and the graphite Paint would stick good to it. Unlike Normal John Deere paint that will never stay on the auger Nor discharge chute when used you will Always' be a slave to sanding down the Auger and Discharge chute yearly to keep it from rusting and Being Pecked up from stone's where as the John Deere Graphite Paint will not be effected that way. I will provide a link to it at the end of my response.




If it were me, I would coat the sprocket's and chain with this John Deere Graphite paint.

It is a dry film lubricant that really stay's put and would not cause a mess like grease which can, Nor get stiff in frigid Cold Winter Temperatures. I feel by using the Graphite Paint on your chain and sprocket's it would also help reduce chain noise as well as it would provide a slight Cushion between the Moving Metal part's of the chain & Sprocket as well as keep both component's free from Rust and wear over the Long run. If you check out the link below that I have provided for this graphite paint They do say that it can be used on Bicycle & Motorcycle chain's as a dry film Lubricant. They sell the Graphite Paint in Rattle Can, or bulk in Quart's or gallon size which can be sprayed on using an air compressor spray gun or simply Brushed on. I Now use it now on the under side of my mowing deck as it Keep's wet grass from sticking to the under side of my Deck and after using the deck for our Nine Month Mowing season very little of it has worn off I only have to touch it up for another year of mowing & I have no rust or corrosion on the under side of my deck from using this product. I bet it would work really well for you, here is that link I hope that it helps you, if you go with my suggestion let us know how it work's out I feel to use both product's that I mentioned here, you will find a $20.00 Cure to your issues. Regards, Kurt

https://jdparts.deere.com/partsmkt/document/english/pmac/6454_fb_GraphiteLubricants.htm


http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Marine/Home/Products/Catalog/?PC_Z7_RJH9U5230GE3E02LECIE20S4K7000000_nid=GSHNZC3CRWgsQH8HT14PGTglSP4B4R7WT2bl

 

Kurt,
I bought already a good product similar to the 3M Body Schutz:
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/rubberized-rockerguard-undercoating-beige-0477936p.html

I have already a can of graphite lubricant.
I used it on my new trailer to lubricate and protect because the dust don't stick to it and it's a protection against the rust.
For the chute, I don't have clogging problem anymore but for the mower, I like the idea.
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/jig-a-loo-graphite-extreme-lubricant-0381502p.html
Andre

 

Has anyone tried using the Body Schutz inside the engine covers or under the fender pan??
Thanks, Dick

 

It was not an easy one, it's not perfect but it look better now:

The next step is to find a cheap solution to fix the small sprocket shaft.
Thanks for your comments!
Andre